wayne

Man, I wish I had the energy right now. Been a brutal week at work. Hope you find someone for the Cave, if not I would like to throw my name in for later.

Bad ass! What an adventure that looks to be.

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Trip: SEWS - The Hitchhiker Date: 9/16/2012 Trip Report: I have a new favorite route. Last minute planning brought Lane and I to the base of the Burdo/Johnson route they named The Hitchhiker. It rambles up the steep se Face of South Early Winter Spire. Originally planning to attempt Gato Negro for the 2nd straight weekend, we opted for more sunshine instead. The switch was last minute, so I didnt have the anticipation nor expectations. I was blown away by the quality and positioning of the climb. It has every type of climbing as well as serious exposure to add to a full-plate meal of a climb! Dihedrals, led to slabs with thin cracks, flakes, (easy)wide sections, roofs wild traverses, you name it. Leading every pitch was stressful, as the climbing is thought provoking, but it was so fun, I didnt care. It took almost 8 hrs to do the 9 pitches. Each lead had its own surprise. Though the route has about 20 bolts, it still requires a big rack and I am glad I took 1 aider for the 3 short sections that I couldnt free. I know I write in superlatives but this route for sure is a gem. I hope to see more reports on this relatively newer route. Burdos book and these reports will have more beta, enjoy! Blakes description , very accurate! Blakes photo/topo Sols amazing 3-day link-up Gear Notes: Doubles to 2" 1 each 3,4, and 5 cams, some stoppers, aider for old-timers. Lots of long draws, took 13 and ran out 2x!

Men, go right to the heart of the beast! West ridge of Macmillan Spire or East ridge of inspiration, or East ridge of Forbidden!

Hey, looks like an interesting adventure. Good report, thanks. Wondered about that route. Would you call it "select"?

Nice off the beaten trail report!

Toni Kurz was victim to a similar circumstance and yes was not a good ending. I lost a whole rack bailing the wrong way off El Cap. Nightmare scenarios need extra cool temperament, crafty tricks, and luck.

Woe guys , great scoop yet again! Please make a new guide book for us so we can keep up!!

Golly jeez, thanks. These may be the loose blocks that are left over from the august 2012 accident and they are very loose. They can be protected with a yellow Metolious cam above them, and then mantled upon with great care. They should be trundled though by a local party with ground support clearing the trail of people below. Spread the word, Thanks.

These may be the loose blocks ( in foreground} that are left over from the august 2012 accident and they are very loose. They can be protected with a yellow Metolious cam above them, and then mantled upon with great care. They should be trundled though by a local party with ground support clearing the trail of people below. Spread the word, Thanks.

Climb with this dude, what a strong partner!

YES!, There are still large blocks that must be mantled over! Save a yellow Metolious for plugging in above the blocks. It would be great to clear these off the route. Maybe a ranger could clear the base area and a party could trundle them off? Also the retreat rope is still up there quite a ways to the right of pitch 1. Another retrieval trip would be greatly appreciated, Thanks, and glad your party got back safe.

Trip: - Acid Baby-YATR Date: 9/1/2012 Trip Report: YATR: Yet another trip report And get ready for a lot more, this is a GREAT climb!, beware though, the top of the 4/5th pitch still has loose blocks right before the belay. Is this where last months accident occured? Save a small yellow Metolius for plugging in above them. I cover more on my website . Thank you CascadeClimbers for salvaging this trip for me!

post deleted, partner found.

The best photo set I have seen in a long time, thanks.

Wow nice, I hope to get some old pards together on something like this, not sure I have shaken off that 20 something drive though. thanks for posting the fine report.

Great! Nice job you guys!..and gals. I had made a run on that one myself in the 90s. We had a snowstorm that kept us off the route, but we summited the SW Peak via the SW Ridge. makes a great descent route too as it gets you back to the col quickly. But, hey you got the West peak in too! Thats the only one left to do for myself.

It is already cold in Siberia. That is usually a good indicator. http://www.wunderground.com/global/Region/AS/Temperature.html

They have that G, Its called the Sierras. FWA's here for the taking??

Nice report! Thanks ,

Ah the double challenge. Good job, and good luck Scotty!

Wash with baking soda?

Great report, thanks for the work you put into it. Would it have been better to do it earlier in the year when there is more snow cover?

Now that guy did some amazing stuff! So cool to hear of his legacy he left for us to amaze at. He has the comfort of those experiences and was at his home. I hope for wellness and healing for his family.