wayne

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: The oldest one I have seen is the one I found from 1945, after I did the first ever solo, and the most recent ascent in in 17 years. I did the 13th ascent total > It was a complete nightmare of a climb OK , I guess I didnt say which peak it was ! St. Peters Dome in the Columbia River George, Oregon

Right across the river from the Hamilton is the WI5+ Brave New World, It is very overhanging on 2 of its 9 pitches ,one goes through a 12' roof! Hasnt seen a second ascent. Me and Tim got the first

Ya I did it , But I did a direct and very sick finish passing up some old back-off slings. 5.9+X-very loose.So I cant tell you aboutthe upper part of the route,though I now knows it traverses right after the snowfield. The rest of the route is quite serious in its self.The routefinding is tough. The rock is fairly loose, though it is the coolest thing you can do in south Oregon.It reminded me of N. Cascades. Rope induced rockfall almost took off my partners ear! I wish everyone knew the story of Mark Mcgloughlin. He seemed so cool.I read both the books on his tragic climb of Denali. White Winds is the best, In the hall Of the Mt King is a poor account in my opinion. I attended a talk with Joe Wilcox and was very moved by the events . I was honored to be one of the few people to do the Memorial.Wayne Wallace

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- hey wayne, cool topo you dropped off - looks like a fun route that i wish i was good enough to lead! i was wondering what your opinion is on the soloist vs. the silent partner. i was thinking of getting one. the silent partner looks like the one i want, but do you know of any particular drawbacks or differences between it and the soloist that i might want to think about? (i just have their literature on it.) thanks, Hey there I wish I had some experience with the silent partner ,however I can tell you the disadvantages of the soloist. Dont ever fall upsidedown!! Rope drag is a suck and you have to do the prussik thing while leading like it shows in the book. You should get proficient before you use it ,it has peculiarities. Traversing sucks hard , it doesnt pay rope out well. I try to solo around other groups of people , I have almost gotten stuck mid climb. Coil out your rope really well. Have fun with it,it beats sitting at home. Wayne

PM me with super secret pc,shh.....

Try the "5.9" chimney on Prussik and bow down to its Supreme and ultimate power, oh measly goshzilla of punydome. I pity you soo.........

The oldest one I have seen is the one I found from 1945, after I did the first ever solo, and the most recent ascent in in 17 years. I did the 13th ascent total > It was a complete nightmare of a climb

Ahh The Carmigan Traverse: 2 cars for every man , woman , and child. The Global Warming Shuttle trip that didnt happen!! Stebbi where did you take that picture of yourself that you use in your avatar? was it before your 5 epics on the Challenger travers?? I must have a trip report on It on my desk in the morning! I am still high from Bear Mt,

Nelly I remmember and loved your show! Formidable "complete,complete is approacherd by the Middle fork of course,but you cross the entry creek early and climb the forested lower ridge. Long grunt for sure,and be careful going down,as it is easy to get cliffed if you dont stay on the ridge.eventually youcome to a sub peak that you cross on the west and you can get a great bivvy on the col. The ridge starts steep and is 5.6 at least if you stay on the ridge. It is easier on the left.Several more steps and youll get to the original rt.It was interesting to not see any slings or fixed gear the whole way and what an adventure free solo!

Caught up with him the other day ,Hes been doin stuff........ Soloed Alpamayo..... Did another rt there Did goode in a day..... Did Clean break... Inspiration E. Ridge... Fury N. Buttress... Probably more,but he was busy with a customer..

You guys dont need to apologize for squat , we still can use this, the greatest, site I have ever used! Get to it when the season is over ,thats when we really need it.

Just led every pitch on DNB of Bear Mt. Good job on Formidable! tell Fred as he is updating his book. [ 08-13-2002, 08:24 PM: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Been following you guys,and I say you put in a good effort! I know K2 doesnt come easy, but you come back safe and give it another shot.

OK Lets see some of you lurkers show up this time

I had a great experience . I posted some cams for sale got a few bites , then I forgot about them . and months later somebody pm'ed me and they sold! I have since updated all of my cams and I can still climb! Anybody want a Kill Serratus Ice Pack?

I free soloed the "complete" N. ridge in 24 hrs. It is more direct and you dont have to deal with glaciers, It is a bit if a sandbag overall, At 5.0, I woulndnt take it lightly, THe rock is loose and not much for pro.

The 2 times I went part way up in bad weather , there were way too many people going up anyways!!! Its not the heat its the Stupidity!!

I dont know how this ended up in the Gear critic section, is anyone able to move it?

More than any other year I can remmember (30+ years), I cant think of a more accident-prone year than this , and it is honly half over! Mine started with witnessing a horrible accident in the East,then the volcano stories . Then the loss of a dear friend in the Himal... Then another in Bolivia. Then the one that recently ocurred. There have been many more with people I dont know. I have had my own bumps on the road but I hope we can all learn from this and be VERY safe out there , please

I have to spray here for Colins and Barts sake. After leaving the trailhead at the stop at the end of the Stehekin road,The 2 of them did Goode in a day !! Has anyone heard of that happenning before?

Sorry for all of you guys......... Lets all take a deep breath and be glad we are alive and keep or thoughts with this guy

2 days ago I lead free every pitch. I have to tell you it is an incredible route! Every pitch was fantastic beyond my expectaions. I wish I would have hauled my pack up it though.The 5 books that it is in are very accurate , though they mix up the crux grades at times .The first crux is sustained for 1 long section around prow,(friction) good rest before and after . Really tough on the calves too.the second crux is shorter but steeper and it dont let up much in the 5.9 sections later.

GOOD JOB STEVE !!!! Managed to free E.Butt Direct on S.Early Winter. What an outstanding climb it is!

I saw emergency Vehicles at Cutthroat Parking lot Saturday, What happened? Any one know?

Lets go back to that Formidible route. It is not in the book, is it a new route? . Give it up, what is the grade etc?. I did the complete N. Ridge solo and I was not impressed with the rock.