dkemp

Chazandbruno, FYI, also see this thread . Drive time from Seattle is about 2.5 hours. Dox

Several weeks ago I was at Tieton's Cave area. It was getting dark and we were wrapping it up but Seth hadnt gone up yet. He was uncertain about leading it but decided to. But it was taking too long and now its dark enough that he gets out his headlamp, and he aint even at the chains yet. Then Anna and I notice bats flitting all around him. She doesnt want him to be surprised so she shouts up to him, as gently as one can say such a thing, "Hey Seth, there's bats flying around your head." He tersely shouts back down, sketchedness apparent in his voice "THATS NOT WHAT I WANT TO HEAR!" Ooof! He finished the climb and we all had a good laugh afterward. Way to hang in there Seth.

"Walking downhill, walking downhill "

Good God, where are their helmets ?! C'mon, safety first, people!

Picking the right size gear on the first try. Placing nuts and hexes. Creating an outing, then seeing my friends having a good time out there, even in the rain. Kicking a damn fine set of steps. The smell of the forest after days on glaciers. A telemark turn to the right - damn that left turn! A great tent partner - hey C!

Geez!

Ooops, looks like this is happening in Routes Reports\Alaska now.

From my buddy Seth's website - PollackPhoto Huntington NF He and I visited the Ruth Amphitheater a few years ago - Huntington was astounding. Just incredible. Dox

I'm interested, but not yet committed to the idea. Last year I was thwarted and I told that same team we'd try it again. You can bet we'll be taking the trade route and wont be setting any speed records. Anyway, yeah, stay in touch. Dox

Hey, walking on a road can be very dangerous. You could trip and fall and, uh, hit your head or something. I think they provide a great example - I know I'll be wearing my helmet when walking to the crag from now on. Safety first, everybody!

Wow, a great weekend at the crags. Went to Tietons Royal Columns Sat & Sun. Led Western Front, 5.3, Good Times, 5.4, and Double Trouble (I think thats what its called) 5.5ish. I say 5.5ish cause I got plenty sketched near the top. All four of us were leading so we all got time on the sharp end as well as the easier end. The Royal Columns were, alas, quite crowded. Lots of small groups and one large one ( a Tacoma Mtneers group of "a dozen or so" - I asked one of them). We have a couple new ratings standards to introduce. First is "S", as in Snake. That 5.4 takes on a new meaning when your belayer says 'Oh boy, this just became a 5.4 S!' Lots of rattlesnakes around the base of the crag. The other rating introduced is "MA", as in My Ass. The 5.5 I put up was definitely 5.5 MA, and others in my group reported finding a 5.6MA and a 5.4MA. The climbing was a bit harded than we expected. I didnt take a lot of pictures - I guess I was busy - but here are a couple. My buddy Phil took this one of me on rappel - And here's Phil seconding Double Trouble, or whatever its called (yes - I tied off the belay to take the pic). More pictures next time (I always say that). Anyway, two full days of climbing and we came home tired. Good times! Dox

Yeah, thats great.

Cream colored ponies and crisp apple streudels Doorbells and sleigh bells and schnitzel with noodles Wild geese that fly with the moon on their wings These are a few of my favorite things

I was kinda hoping the climbing season isnt really over. Denial or optimism - you decide .

Limnology, oh yeah... Limnology... Hey, I aint often a smartass.

A limnologist?

Well cool, I'll let you know - perhaps our paths will join. I love the Stehekin area. Here is from my last trip to the area. Bushwhacker Stehekin TR

wow, a reply 19 months after original post! Thanks for posting the cool photos Yeah, I figure getting to the glacier will be the crux. Also, crossing Rainbow Creek in early season will be cruxy. I'm looking forward to giving it a shot. Dox

Dang! Wish I coulda been there but had plans in town. Next time for sure! Dox

Yahoo - mine just arrived!

Wow, some hairy stories for sure. Mine was crossing the McKinley River on our way to Mt Brooks. Got to the crux then went for a little swim. Banged up knees and hands but at least we didnt drown. We watched my full overnight backpack float downriver, around a bend, and out of sight. We eventually got it back but boy, that was grim.

I think Tieton is good for beginner leaders - lots of moderates - but for true beginners I'm not so sure. Maybe, but a lot of people dont like cracks - I guess because it hurts . I've been to the Cave area one time. We climbed a 5.7 called Recreational Jugs - 4 or 5 bolts to chains. Problem is it wasnt really jugs, more like ledges - granted there were lots of them - and although I dont dispute the grade I thought it was kinda scary. Not bad for a beginner leader but I wouldnt put a true beginner on it. Icicle is great but there again its cracks. Or worse, for beginners, slabs - yikes. I think Exit 38 is good for beginners. Face climbing with lots of jugular holds. Also, most beginners want the top to be not too far off the ground and Exit 38 offers some short routes. As you know, the top of Tieton climbs can be way up there - little opportunity for coaching. And especially if they are cleaning the chains they should get some coaching. If they are true beginners I'd take 'em to Exit 38 first. My 2 cents.

Tape gloves for cracks. And PalmOlive - You're soaking in it now

at the risk of sounding really stupid... what is a wedge type anchor? An anchor built from passive gear?? Thanks in advance...