dkemp

I was in Stehekin last weekend and saw lots of rock and wonder if there are known cragging areas there. No info in guide books, Google didn't help. Any information about fairly accessible rock climbing out of the Stehekin area would be appreciated. -Dox

I have the pleasure to report that Seth Pollack is one of my best friends. He and I have climbed together all over the Cascades and have visited Alaska together on four occasions. He is at this moment trekking in Patagonia. What a guy. If you havent seen it, dont miss his photo website. He put a lot of effort into it and its very cool. http://www.pollackphoto.com/home.htm Dox

Mattp, the eruption hoax you mentioned was mt edgecumbe (sp?) in southeast alaska. I saw a story with a photo in Alaska Geographic. It was an April Fools Day prank - I think its hilarious. Fairweather - thanks. Iammo - lets go for a beer together and talk about it. Or better yet, lets go for a beer together and talk about better stories. Shoot me an email - hope to hear from you soon. Dox

I got that Tordrillo book - its fantabulous. Inspiring to say the least. FYI, a few years ago I put a team together and hired TAT to take us to the Tongue. We never got off the ground and frankly I felt jerked around by Paul Roderick. Long story but we got the feeling that he never really intended to deliver us to Iliamna but instead to convince us to go where he wanted - in other words, a milkrun to the Kahiltna. Frustrated, we got the heck out of there and went to the Chugach. I aint one to hold a grudge but there aint no love lost 'tween me a TAT. Now I'm glad it didnt work out. We had a great time on the Eklutna Glacier and besides, next time I get a group together to go to Iliamna I'll just floatplane from Anchorage to Chinitna Bay and start at sea level. 10,016 feet of vertical excitement!

I have maps and that book (dont get me started ). But I wonder if anyone has been into the Nebesna for the North Ridge of Blackburn. I'm considering this for May. Dox

Iliamna! boy, I dont have first hand info but its a dream of mine. A man named Paul Crews got the first ascent in six days of June 1958. I found his report in 1959 AAJ. They started at Chinitna Bay and bushwhacked in there, camped at 5000 or so, summited in whiteout. I plan to go in there someday so I got inspired and called him. Nice guy, seemed glad to talk to me. His AAJ report mentioned rafting out down the creek so on the phone I asked him about it - whats this about rafting out down the creek? He said Yeah, bushwhacking in there was hard so on the way out they got a bunch of driftwood and lashed it together with their climbing ropes. They then got some long branches to use as poles. They piled their packs on then jumped on and away they went! He said it worked pretty good, got stuck only a few times. I asked Denali NP ranger Roger Robinson about Iliamna one time. He said he had tried it but turned around due to weather. He then looked at me in the eye and said "More bears than I've ever seen anywhere in Alaska." I spoke to Paul Claus (Ultima Thule Outfitters) about it last year. He said its great to fly in there in winter and ski. I know the AK Climbing Guide (dont get me started ) says to fly in there to the Tongue Glacier, and I see a place to land on the map and all. But when I go I plan to follow the first ascent route starting at Chinitna Bay.

A month ago my pal found a copy of Viktor Kramar's Leavenworth Rock at the base of Midnight Rock. Yours?

My pal was at Midnight Rock over the weekend. She found a copy of Leavenworth Rock by Viktor Kramer. Please email to claim, dkemp@karrtuttle.com . Dox

quote: Alpine T, I dont think you're being snide at all er, I meant MattP of course.

Alpine T, I dont think you're being snide at all, and I agree But, JJ, if you consider McA Valley, which I cannot imagine - yikes! but if you do, dont miss Dont Waste Your Time's... description of Thunder Creek. I dont have the book in front of me but I remember they give it a really good Shoulder Season rating. And having hiked that valley I would totally agree. So read the books, *read the maps*, then hike up Thunder Creek, thrash about McA Valley, suffer until satisfied, then report back here on what you find out re McA valley. And be prepared for the wildlife in there -

quote: The various "Dont Waste Your Time In the..." books are themselves a waste of time... I dislike the overabundance of guidebooks. I dream of going to places that dont have them; difficult these days - can you believe there is a guidebook for Kamchatka Penninsula? When the climbing guide to Alaska came out I was very disappointed. I dont think "Dont waste your time..." is a waste of time though. Why not use available resources to do some homework? Just makes sense. I disagree with some of the opinions in that book but its obvious from reading it that those people love the Cascades. There's good info in there for a person putting together an outing.

oh boy, Stefan, very sorry to hear about your accident. Yikes! Looking forward to hearing of your progress. Good luck man. -Dox

quote: The McAllister glacier doesn't sound like the right place for "non-climbers who are more interested in hikes". I don't think there are any "hikes" there. Right on.

Boy, accessing McA Gl directly will be a tough hike. If you dont know the area you should begin with something much easier. yeah, Eldorado via Eldo Glacier/Inspiration Glacier is a mighty fine snow climb. Not that its easy - the approach is quite strenuous. As far as hiking guidebooks, I like Dont Waste Your Time in the North Cascades.

I'd also be happy to take you out. We would start with a hike and if we hit it off then we could take ropes another time. I'd be available for a hike in mid-November. If interested send me an email at dkemp@karrtuttle.com . -Dox

quote: It's cool she won it, but she didn't seem exited at all, shit people who won chalk seemed more stoaked.I think she was just a bit embarrassed - she was probably just hoping for a t-shirt but got the grand prize. BTW, I'll bet she gives it to a good home. Hmm, maybe I should give her a call... Man, that guy can do some cool shit, eh? And damn he goes to some cool places. He had no pics of Alaska though, and AK's the coolest.

I resent that. I know the woman that got the ice tool - I havent talked to her in a couple years and I cant imagine she's into ice climbing now but she's definitely not a dope - she's a very cool person. My friends won some stuff. I wont argue their dope status but you can bet they will use their new stuff. You got what they call Sour Grapes Syndrome. No big deal, and I know my forehead vein is bulging, so I'll chill now. Good show - way to go, FF.

So, I know the shuttles start in May to deliver hikers up Stehekin Valley. What about in winter? I assume the road is totally covered in snow. Can I simply ski up that thing? Will I get run over by snowmachines? Perhaps there is no snow and I'll be hiking on dirt for all those miles? Is there someone other that NCNP shuttle that I can hire to drive me up-valley when the NCNP shuttle is not in season? Whats the access to Stehekin valley like in winter?

This year the DNP shuttles started running on the park road on June 8. Before that you have to fly in to Kantishna then ski or hike 10 miles to Wonder Lake. I think early June is normal. -Dox

Happy b-day, cc.com!

It seems to me his inspiration came from love of mountains - a kindred spirit. I saw his presentation last year on First Hill, and it has given me endless fodder for storytelling on my own outings. I'm really sad right now.

And another thing! blah blah blah...

I go on a lot of outings every year, but actually reach a summit only 5-10 times a year. hey, they dont call me 'Double-Try' Doxey for nuthin'.

At the risk of getting this back on-topic: Snowcamping stuff: I just cant get on-board with the pee-bottle - hey, I've tried! Nothing, uh, happens. I get all ready and, uh, come on come on, (heavy sigh). Okay, gotta get outta the tent, but of course I dont wanna put the boots on. Answer: Goretex socks. Wont keep your feet warm but will keep 'em dry for the few minutes you need. Note this has limitations - postholing sucks, and in some technical terrain this could be a real hazard. Cascade Designs Pillowcase - hey, I'm taking my puffy jacket anyway, right? I stuff that sucker in the pillowcase and I'm the envy of my tentmates. Best six dollars I ever spent. Use a dip cup, wouldja please? They only cost a couple dollars and they dont hardly weigh anything. I hate seeing hands (gloved or not) go in the snowbag to scoop snow into the cookpot - hey, I know what you been doin'! Color me delicate but I think its gross. Handi-wipes - gimme an Amen, brother. And that Sanitizer Gel stuff too. This is not a thing to bring but just a tip: Dig out your tent platform, but now set up your tent off to one side, including the fly. Now place the tent, all ready to go, on the platform. I see so many people take a long time to get their platform just right, then they step all over it while getting the poles connected, etc. all while punching holes all over their perfect platform. -Dox

Here is a great photo of our climb!