dkemp

This weekend, for the second time in my short leader career, I got to the bolt hangars at the top to find the nut loose. Not the hangar spinning (I've been told that a spinning hangar is okay) but the nut on the bolt turns - totally loose - I thumb-tightened it. I tried to tighten it with whatever I had at hand - I tried my nut cleaning tool but that didnt fit, I tried the open end of a hex but it wasnt quite the right size. I used the bolt in my TR system after backing it up with gear in a nearby crack. This happened at Icicle, Clam Shell Cave - route is Noisy Oyster. Happened at Exit 38 a couple months ago. Do y'all encounter loose bolts often? Perhaps I should carry a nut wrench? It occurs to me that my Metolius brand nut cleaning tool should have a nut wrench built in - maybe I should suggest it to Metolius, eh? If you have a wrench, how tight do ya make it - as tight as you can get it? I dont even own a wrench. Should I report the loose nut to someone? Yeesh, I feel like a newbie with this one. Maybe I should stick to snowclimbing!

Sorry Lambone - man thats tough.

It was beautiful when I was there. We went in from the west - flew to Veracruz, then took busses to Coscomatepec. The busses were nice and ran exactly right on time. "Cosco" is a nice town. You cannot drive to Piedra Grande from there however. We hired a truck to take us to 10k, then hiked up to 14 from there. As I'm sure you know, most climbers come from the west - dont remember that towns name - and drive right to 14k. You might consider - this is my plan when I go back - approaching from the west, climb the mountain, then exit east to Cosco\Veracruz. PM me if you are interested and I'll get you more information. I liked Coscomatepec so much I'd definitely go back there. However be warned - they dont speak english and there are no cash machines. Before we left I took a spanish class and everyone told me 'oh, everyone there speaks english'. No they dont. Not in Cosco and not even in Veracruz. My limited Spanish turned out to be crucial. I understand that approaching from the west is totally different. Anyway, I ramble. Have fun. Dox

I dont go much for political stuff but this is kinda funny. Enjoy! Leader of the Free World

I've been to Tieton a coupla times, always with someone else's guidebook and they were photocopies of the original. I'd gladly pay for my own but I guess they are out of print - I called a couple climb shops and no-one has them. Does anyone know the status of the Tieton guide? Perhaps someone knows how to get in contact with the authors - Christensen I believe? Thanks in advance, Doxey

I got an office and I wouldnt bail like that. I got an office but no tie, maybe its the tie.

Yup - its happened to me. I hate that shit. Yup, off to the gym.

Nice - congrats on your summit!

I was there and spoke briefly. sometimes public speaking shuts me down - I dunno if I made any sense at all. Anyway, I lent my support to the preferred option's commercial free areas. Also it bothers me that the commercial services are guarenteed their slots. They say they need them in order to plan - well, guess what? So do independent groups and for that matter community college classes. The community college classes (fewer in number now than in the past I believe) and club classes have to compete for their slots not with commercial ventures but with the independents. I suspect these classes provide an educational and social experience beyond that of commercial guiding. FWIW, I recognize and respect the guide services historical place in climbing in general and specifically at MRNP. I dont advocate eliminating commercial guiding. I do advocate reducing client to guide ratios and commercial free areas. I also think the commercial guides are given unfair preferrential treatment (guaranteed spaces).

wow, what a thread. And its not even rainy season yet.

Yeah, I coulda fell on that gear - I felt real good about each piece. On my practice climbs I put a long sling in some of the pieces and bounce-tested them, and I've had my pals checking my gear and critiquing. Saber, eh? All right then, but I haven't been building anchors out of gear. I got book-learnin' from John Long and some practice standing on the ground - I got the idea, I just don't have experience. Anyway, thanks!

Thanks y'all! When you get a minute you might want to see more pictures on the Bushwhacker site. That was fun. Next is Tieton for Western Front, 5.4, (I practiced on that one a couple weeks ago) and other stuff in the .4, .5 and .6 range.

I had my heart set on the Icicle's Classic Crack being my first trad lead. So yesterday I practiced (placing gear on TR) several times, then my buds told me 'Okay Dox, you can do it!' So I got myself good 'n scared then I did it! Photo by my pal Seth - Whoo - hoo! Doxey's leadin' Classic Crack!

I visited Smith last weekend for the first time. It took us a couple days to figure the place out. Here's my two cents: The main climbing area, Dihedrals, etc., are too damn hot by mid-morning and will stay too hot until mid-or late-afternoon. If you want Ginger Snaps or Cinnimon Slabs, be there by 6 or 7am-ish then get the heck outa there. Go back at 4pm. On the third day we did Spiderman - really nice, I liked it - stepping around that roof was, as the guidebook says, exciting. We were at the parking lot at 8am, and walked over Asterisk Pass directly to Spiderman. At the top by 10:30. This place starts gettting in the sun by 11am or so and will be unpleasantly hot after that. Not a lot of moderate stuff on the backside - some but not lots. We found that the Red Wall area came into shade by 1:00pm or so - a great early afternoon destination. We found a 5.8 crack (uh, Moscow?) whose first pitch led practically to the chains of a .10b (um, dang, cant remember the name of that one - Face It perhaps?), anyway really nice climbing. Early afternoon - Red Wall rocks. Rope de Dope has some nice looking moderate stuff - I led a 5.6 there - and its shaded. Its also crammed with classes and otherwise beginners (like me). I gotta go back and have another look around. Its a beautiful place with lots of options but honestly I didnt find a lot of easy or moderate stuff. Seems kinda hard. The guidebook shows most all the .6's, .7's and .8's have a R or X after the rating. BTW, Grasslands was good for (free) camping. Dont fall asleep too quick - you'll miss the sounds of coyotes yelping and howling, and the elk bugling - nice. Dox

Thanks! I hope whoever these folks are sees this post. We went over Misery Ridge trail to Red Wall area and climbed a few things there - fun stuff.

...then here is your photo. Enjoy! p.s. PM me for more (not as good) photos. Doxey

I searched cc.com and saw joepuryear posted about this on 9/14 - still I wanted to share this photo, taken Friday 9/19. The bridge is IN!

Sad indeed. Condolences to family and friends.

oh boy. well, sorry to tell you this but Roy got sick and died on a climb of Cayambe in Equador. Roy and I hiked and climbed quite a bit together, and I spoke at his funeral. I wasnt on the climb. Karen told me that they were doing great, headin' for the summit. At 19k they took a little break and Roy remarked how beautiful the place was. When they stood up to start climbing again Roy just fell over. Click the link below, then do Edit, Find on This Page for the word Roy. You'll find a little paragraph about Roy. http://www.bushwhackernewsletter.org/newsbriefs2003.htm Sorry. And thanks for the great picture of him - thats Roy all right. Doxey

I dunno, I think that Seth Pollack is Trouble, capital T !

Yeah, I'm really enjoying the new book also - thanks! Doxey

Here's to the Man in Black Dox

An aside - again re Mooses Tooth article - I was admiring the inset map of the area. I thought it was clear enough - nicely done. I looked to the credit and its none other than Mike Clelland of Climbing Mag Tech Tips fame, also Allen & Mikes Really Cool ... series of books, Knots for Climbers, etc. That guy has really carved a niche for himself. Dox