dkemp

Picking the right size gear on the first try. Placing nuts and hexes. Creating an outing, then seeing my friends having a good time out there, even in the rain. Kicking a damn fine set of steps. The smell of the forest after days on glaciers. A telemark turn to the right - damn that left turn! A great tent partner - hey C!

Geez!

Ooops, looks like this is happening in Routes Reports\Alaska now.

From my buddy Seth's website - PollackPhoto Huntington NF He and I visited the Ruth Amphitheater a few years ago - Huntington was astounding. Just incredible. Dox

I'm interested, but not yet committed to the idea. Last year I was thwarted and I told that same team we'd try it again. You can bet we'll be taking the trade route and wont be setting any speed records. Anyway, yeah, stay in touch. Dox

Hey, walking on a road can be very dangerous. You could trip and fall and, uh, hit your head or something. I think they provide a great example - I know I'll be wearing my helmet when walking to the crag from now on. Safety first, everybody!

Wow, a great weekend at the crags. Went to Tietons Royal Columns Sat & Sun. Led Western Front, 5.3, Good Times, 5.4, and Double Trouble (I think thats what its called) 5.5ish. I say 5.5ish cause I got plenty sketched near the top. All four of us were leading so we all got time on the sharp end as well as the easier end. The Royal Columns were, alas, quite crowded. Lots of small groups and one large one ( a Tacoma Mtneers group of "a dozen or so" - I asked one of them). We have a couple new ratings standards to introduce. First is "S", as in Snake. That 5.4 takes on a new meaning when your belayer says 'Oh boy, this just became a 5.4 S!' Lots of rattlesnakes around the base of the crag. The other rating introduced is "MA", as in My Ass. The 5.5 I put up was definitely 5.5 MA, and others in my group reported finding a 5.6MA and a 5.4MA. The climbing was a bit harded than we expected. I didnt take a lot of pictures - I guess I was busy - but here are a couple. My buddy Phil took this one of me on rappel - And here's Phil seconding Double Trouble, or whatever its called (yes - I tied off the belay to take the pic). More pictures next time (I always say that). Anyway, two full days of climbing and we came home tired. Good times! Dox

Yeah, thats great.

Cream colored ponies and crisp apple streudels Doorbells and sleigh bells and schnitzel with noodles Wild geese that fly with the moon on their wings These are a few of my favorite things

I was kinda hoping the climbing season isnt really over. Denial or optimism - you decide .

Limnology, oh yeah... Limnology... Hey, I aint often a smartass.

A limnologist?

Well cool, I'll let you know - perhaps our paths will join. I love the Stehekin area. Here is from my last trip to the area. Bushwhacker Stehekin TR

wow, a reply 19 months after original post! Thanks for posting the cool photos Yeah, I figure getting to the glacier will be the crux. Also, crossing Rainbow Creek in early season will be cruxy. I'm looking forward to giving it a shot. Dox

Dang! Wish I coulda been there but had plans in town. Next time for sure! Dox

Yahoo - mine just arrived!

Wow, some hairy stories for sure. Mine was crossing the McKinley River on our way to Mt Brooks. Got to the crux then went for a little swim. Banged up knees and hands but at least we didnt drown. We watched my full overnight backpack float downriver, around a bend, and out of sight. We eventually got it back but boy, that was grim.

I think Tieton is good for beginner leaders - lots of moderates - but for true beginners I'm not so sure. Maybe, but a lot of people dont like cracks - I guess because it hurts . I've been to the Cave area one time. We climbed a 5.7 called Recreational Jugs - 4 or 5 bolts to chains. Problem is it wasnt really jugs, more like ledges - granted there were lots of them - and although I dont dispute the grade I thought it was kinda scary. Not bad for a beginner leader but I wouldnt put a true beginner on it. Icicle is great but there again its cracks. Or worse, for beginners, slabs - yikes. I think Exit 38 is good for beginners. Face climbing with lots of jugular holds. Also, most beginners want the top to be not too far off the ground and Exit 38 offers some short routes. As you know, the top of Tieton climbs can be way up there - little opportunity for coaching. And especially if they are cleaning the chains they should get some coaching. If they are true beginners I'd take 'em to Exit 38 first. My 2 cents.

Tape gloves for cracks. And PalmOlive - You're soaking in it now

at the risk of sounding really stupid... what is a wedge type anchor? An anchor built from passive gear?? Thanks in advance...

This weekend, for the second time in my short leader career, I got to the bolt hangars at the top to find the nut loose. Not the hangar spinning (I've been told that a spinning hangar is okay) but the nut on the bolt turns - totally loose - I thumb-tightened it. I tried to tighten it with whatever I had at hand - I tried my nut cleaning tool but that didnt fit, I tried the open end of a hex but it wasnt quite the right size. I used the bolt in my TR system after backing it up with gear in a nearby crack. This happened at Icicle, Clam Shell Cave - route is Noisy Oyster. Happened at Exit 38 a couple months ago. Do y'all encounter loose bolts often? Perhaps I should carry a nut wrench? It occurs to me that my Metolius brand nut cleaning tool should have a nut wrench built in - maybe I should suggest it to Metolius, eh? If you have a wrench, how tight do ya make it - as tight as you can get it? I dont even own a wrench. Should I report the loose nut to someone? Yeesh, I feel like a newbie with this one. Maybe I should stick to snowclimbing!

Sorry Lambone - man thats tough.

It was beautiful when I was there. We went in from the west - flew to Veracruz, then took busses to Coscomatepec. The busses were nice and ran exactly right on time. "Cosco" is a nice town. You cannot drive to Piedra Grande from there however. We hired a truck to take us to 10k, then hiked up to 14 from there. As I'm sure you know, most climbers come from the west - dont remember that towns name - and drive right to 14k. You might consider - this is my plan when I go back - approaching from the west, climb the mountain, then exit east to Cosco\Veracruz. PM me if you are interested and I'll get you more information. I liked Coscomatepec so much I'd definitely go back there. However be warned - they dont speak english and there are no cash machines. Before we left I took a spanish class and everyone told me 'oh, everyone there speaks english'. No they dont. Not in Cosco and not even in Veracruz. My limited Spanish turned out to be crucial. I understand that approaching from the west is totally different. Anyway, I ramble. Have fun. Dox

I dont go much for political stuff but this is kinda funny. Enjoy! Leader of the Free World