Tony_Bentley

I just read through these posts and really there is nothing better than just accepting the possibility that humans make mistakes. Condor Buttress, Vantage and Yellow Jacket Tower all are perfect places for textbook accidents. It is excellent to see all of these examples discussed and the information readily available for other new climbers so they know what kinds of accidents are most common and how to avoid them as they progress through this inherently dangerous sport. Of course, even the most experienced climbers will make a mistake that results in injury or death. Avoiding it may be impossible but one can hope that the mistake will be small enough to learn from without the cost of one's life or a season spent recovering from a climbing injury. The information on these 4 pages is readily available but still requires some skill to find it. Perhaps we may use this forum to help organize it in a fashion similar to the AAC Accidents book. These discussions are by far the best part of CascadeClimbers.com in my opinion but due to the method in which the discussions and topics are organized, I do not see how a lurker can easily find it without being to some degree, computer savvy. A big button on the home page leading to the case studies would be a start. There are some really good writers here and each one of these accidents are already organized in a way that would make it relatively easy to publish a report.

Thanks G

Forks had a great 10 minute show. I saw your party while I was being a day hiking gaper this week. We hiked a whole 3 miles in and then hung out on a gravel bar for an hour.

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/35999819

Sweetheart of Song Tra Bong is the one that stuck with me I just received The Things they carried in the mail. After the hype from you guys I thought I'd give it a read. So far so good! Thanks for the suggestion.

I'm taking full responsibility for most of what you guys are objecting to. If you do not see any merit or truth to it, there is no reason not to censor the content for whatever you are attempting to conceal, be it poor behavior or rampant and off-topic discussions. In the mentioned thread, I also participated in a thread drift to a discussion regarding the selected routes of the Mountaineers, which I thought had some strong value. Had the thread been censored, it wouldn't have been mentioned. It may or may not lead to a change in the climbing policies or curriculum of the Mountaineers but it seems like a step in the right direction from my perspective. Sorry if I offended anyone.

The last time I went up Hook Creek drainage I almost died. There are hooks on all of the downed trees and they seem to reach out and grab any bare skin. When I get to the top my entire body is covered in soot from wrestling with the trees on the way up. I am sceared to drink the water cause I think Tina has pooped in it a few times.

Spoken like a vetran Hook Creek Shwacker. No trail this year either I take it. What routes do you think would be a good alternative? I am trying to think of some good 5.4 multipitch routes but I've drawn a blank. I suppose someone could go scrub something cool in honor of the fallen comrades at YJT. Maybe something above the Pearly Gates or nearby so they can use the Snow Creek parking lot. Place some good belay bolts and make it go to a sort of "summit" so it also has cool factor. 3 pitches would be perfect. VK, RC, DB- Any thoughts?

Taken out of context.

Gary, a single bolt anywhere is fine. Adding a bolt isn't going to keep people from getting injured though. The point is, it isn't the nature of the route that causes injuries but the climbers themselves. Avoiding an epic is through your learning experiences and other people's experiences and wisdom, not by adding a bolt. So the statement above regarding the way The Mountaineers are doing their curriculums seems to have some merit. Last year on Sharkfin a group of climbers were injured because a rappel anchor failed. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/475282/an/0/page/0#475282 It wouldn't be fair to say that either this or last year's incident is because of the way The Mountaineers are teaching their classes. A slip in a "no-falls" zone will certainly teach a new climber the do's and don'ts of climbing. People are "guided" up mountains and rocks all of the time. I certainly am no exception. Last week for instance...

Jack Kerouac Samuel Clemens Clive Cussler Dashell Hamett John Gierach Stephen Hawking George Orwell Patrick McManus Jack London William S Burrows Allen Ginsberg Leary, Timothy Malcom X Plato Thoreau Emerson James Swan John Muir

I did a search looking for the first ascent party and have yet to find the original traverse story. Anyone have a source or know of the exact peaks and routes?

Climb: Sahale Ski-Cascade Pass -> Sahale Arm Date of Climb: 5/4/2006 Trip Report: After cranking hard to meet a deadline, no sleep was to be had last night. I tried but Justin knocked 15 minutes after I laid down. In 40 minutes we were packed with food, coffee and gear and Justin was bombing down I-5. He made record time up Cascade River road drifting corners and taking the pothole hits at full speed. We were making good time and were skinning up Sahale Arm by 10am and had only stopped to chow and gauk at the snowy North Cascades a couple of times. I kept stopping and looking at all of them. North facing slopes are more fun! By noon we were at the base of the final crag of Sahale trying to find the least sketchy way to ski from the summit. There were two options; drop down a bit to the west face or go around the eastern side. We picked the northeastern slope but skiing from the direct summit wasn't an option for either of us. We hung out at the top and Justin then downclimbed and took some video of my single "don't botch it" turn from about 15' from the summit. A screw up would have sent me sliding down a slope that dropped off into who knows where. Forbidden Peak looked great in snow. After Justin came around and put on his ski gear he took the first run which was nice and steep with great snow conditions. Another few thousand feet and we were looking back at our tracks and loving the sun and perfect corn. J-Berg was puking snow and the rumble and dumps were fun to watch. Soon we were back at the car driving for Mexi and listening to Dr Dre. By the way.. I believe this was Justin's first ever trip into the backcountry on skis and I must say, he did pretty good! Keep it up!!! Gear Notes: Axe, cramps, sunblock and a red bull Approach Notes: melting fast

After extensive reviews of your trip reports, I've concluded that all of your adventures are classics Mr. Sjue.

Oly, have you attempted Gunsight? I think the approach is what makes it tough. Especially Bachelor Creek with overnight, glacier and rock equpiment(with pins and bolt kit). Once you are at the base with the proper equipment and ability to send you could be good to go. I am speculating though, since I have only looked at it from Dome Col.

Huh. The last party I know of to have climbed it, did it in a day. I think if you are from midwestern or southern states it could take that long though.

Good times Sky. Thanks again for the invitation. If I look closely, I can see my tracks through the icefall. Skiing the through the trees I kept saying to myself, "I'm gonna get worked!" Dave has a report on TAY if anyone wants additional details: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=4574.0

PCFTD is spectacular. I grabbed the chains for the finish move though. I didn't see the hold directly to the right of the chains and couldn't think of what to do! Frosty, next time I think I will just keep going to the top anchors. Gotta save another #2 for the upper crack though.

All three books say .11a Whatever.

Pitch 3 is not .11a

I think you got it.

Ross, You are a superhero.

I had a conversation with an ice climber this winter about approaching in his leathers so he didn't have to carry his leathers to the base of the climb. I've carried climbing boots for easy rock after a ski approach and enjoyed a great ski out. The best of both worlds! Carrying a heavy pack while skiing takes some extra muscles and as much support as you can get from your ski boots. Snowboarding with mountaineering boots on the other hand.... And Paul.....I know you will buy Dynafits within the next year or two so POW! Sorry we didn't ski yesterday. Lemme-know if you can go during this week.

Lasers are Dynafit compatible. Dynafits are your best bet for getting the right fit and having a light AT setup. There isn't much reason to have skis that fit your classic mountaineering boots now that you have AT. You can climb in your Lasers from now on if you want. As far as releasable; remember that almost every Telemark skier on this planet does not have a releasable binding. Buck up and buy Dynafit and all of your problems will be over. They are on sale at The Mountaineer Here

PFFFT! It works now.