Tony_Bentley

Any good spots that you guys know of? I'm looking for a place within 5 minutes from the car and void of avi slopes and ideally not too many trees. I was thinking about the Commonwealth Creek area but I think there are too many trees out there.

Amen to that. And I agree wholeheartedly A local hardman and I were having a conversation about this very thing the other day whilst skating on skis in the mountains. We both came to a similar conclusion about the future of rock climbing and the ethics that have (or haven't) dictated the popularity and overall quality of a climbing area. Leavenworth came to mind since we both have spent some time there pulling moss from obscure routes. Now that we have such a strong internet community and since most of the heads that took part in writing the guidebook are part of the internet community, it is probably a good time to giving some CONSTRUCTIVE criticism about each route and pointing out the good, bad and uglies. This will eventually lead to a better guidebook, some chopped bolts, replaced anchors and better maintained trails. I'm pretty much willing to take some time each year and make modifications like replacing anchors or adding/chopping bolts to existing routes if there is a consensus that a route is in need of changing.

Gosh every post is speculation. Nice work guys!

I'm in if you wanna leave the night before and shoot for Cascadian Couloir. If anyone can tow me to the TH, that would be cool too. DH I got a secret. Get me a gas powered approach or wait for sprinf thaw and I'll show you.

The camera is a Rebel with either a 10-22 or the 28-135mm lens. If I had the daddy, I would shoot with that too.

Here ya go http://www.tonybentley.com/journals/adventure/index.php

What model? I've been fishing with a DS2 for the last 6 years. I love it and hope it never breaks.

If I remember correcly, it wasn't until many years did he begin putting his last name to some of the variations he was creating for flyfishing in Labrador and the Rocky Mountains. If you look at the old generation of flies, they are all feathers with silk and fur dubbing. Take for example Mary Orvis Maybury's "Favorite Flies", which was a large catalog of flies that their fly tying production team was producing at the turn of the century. It wasn't until 30 years later did they begin using bucktail for wet flies and then later for dry flies with upright wings like the Royal Wulff and the Elk Hair Caddis. Here is the next generation of flies. This one is a March Brown.

Here is some tradition for ya. I got my own food nigga. Tied with polar bear and seal fur.

Looks like an east coast assortment. You need more mammal fur to float them on this side of the Rockies. And a hair wing Royal Coachman? No such thing.

Are you serious? Someone was going up this?

I contacted Mary Metz at The Mountaineers Books and according to her, they no longer retain a copyright. The rights then default back to the Author, who was and still is employed through the USGS. Sorry if you are having connection problems with my website. They were having some sort of problem the last couple of days with my web server but they insist that it will be fixed after today.

This book is the original guide to the Northern and Southern Picket Ranges and outlying areas. The guide contains geologic references as well as alpine hiking routes. I have the book on my website now as both pdfs and a compressed folder with a high resolution map and jpegs. I encourage anyone that is familiar with this area to add comments with up to date information about each of the access routes. Each route is numerical so it is probably best to use the route number, then the description of the route changes or differences between now and then. Here is the link

The bolts and trails are nothing in comparison to say, the emissions each of you waste just driving down there from Seattle 10 times a year. Pope can be against sport climbers just as easily as I can be against some the same people for the standard in which they live. Their affluensic need to own brand new SUV's and brand new climbing gear and technical clothing is a far greater threat to our society than the bolts in which they clip or the holds in which they glue. What about the same people's lack of involvement in protecting these same lands? How many people that climb at Smith Rocks actually give something back to the environment?

Credit- http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/article_cordes_trango.htm# Eric you should go get this. From what Josh said, it sounds like his hardest climb to date. 7000' of rock and ice with no possibility of retreat. Sounds like your deal buddy.

A ski descent of Reboubt and Spikard is high on the list. A circumnav of Torres del Paine I also dream of another 5.10 grade IV in the North Cascades. Ideally on Skagit Gneiss and relatively solid and in a superb setting. I'm not opposed to granite nunatuks either. I also dream of a ski descent on Mt Index.....We can dream right?

Get a metal scraper and clip your skin reverse on your ski and start scraping. You will end up scraping some of the skin glue off too but there should be enough left for it not to be a problem. If it is a problem then just get some more skin glue. It is a good idea to keep a kit that includes a flie, scotch bright pad, rub on wax, p-tex candle, regular wax and scraper. That way you can just ask a shop to use their iron and you have the rest to take care of business. Too much wax is often worse than not enough wax.

What? Nah! It was POWDER!

Oh yeah. In fact, they probably have your coat. Maybe not the one that was taken but one pretty close to it. If not, go the the FF factory and see what they can do. Sometimes they have coats they would never put out on the floor at thier retail store but they might sell it to some poor fool. No offense.

Get a new drive with more storage and set it as master then reinstall all of the program files. I have a sweet little external adaptor that takes any internal drive and gives it AC power and USB-2 connection. Set it as a slave drive and then go into the Documents and Settings and pull whatever it is that you want and put it on your new local drive. The drive can then be reformatted and used as a backup if it is working properly after the complete reformat.

ROTC 5.11c and not 5.11- unless you are talking about on TR. Lead it and it goes at 5.11c. Tim, you are a chump.

Crack: ROTC Trad but not quite a crack: Committed Sport: Model Worker What is it about 5.11c? You'd think I would pick something more about the fun factor and less about the grade. The truth is, 5.11c is the most fun!

Cascade Mall is the unofficial name to Leiland/Cotman.

Steve is a star. Who cares about his public image. When he does a slideshow, we watch. When he writes an article, we read. When he is interviewed we listen. His personality isn't something that effects us or climbing in gerneral. Only what he has accomplished and what has inspired us should be why we are interested. The guy who wrote this blog has too much time dedicated towards keeping up on everyone else. Go climb.

PubClub's happening bar guides can solve part of the problem.