ScottP

Ditto that....as of about 11:00 pm yesterday.

Delusional fantasy.

Welcome back.

Arguing about how many bolts on whicheverfuckall route hardly seems like a topic needing "further information and insight"... Oh wait, here's some insight; get a life and quit nitpicking about useless shit. To Catbirdseat: Thanks for the TR. It actually restoked my enthusiasm for a crag I thought to be rather forgettable the first, and only time I visited it way before there were enough bolts to (mis)count and argue about. Too bad it degenerated into the typical useless crap.

Seems to me perhaps not all Mountaineers ascribe to the horde mentality... especially when they aren't the first horde on the route.

...and cc.com as well.

Why, they put it on enchiladas, of course.

I'm not a mind reader... Who do you think it is?

This may have been mentioned previously, but anyway... A while back a friend and I put in a route at Darrington that had a 10b crux on a frictiony slab where one scrabbles at an ever widening seam (and okay placements) until reaching a good crack. On the last pitch we left a 30-40 foot runout on 5.8 ground (Darrington slab) with a final step over to a good crack. The spicy part was that that final step over to the crack left one looking down over an edge into a large dihedral (not part of the route). A fall from that spot would have been nasty, but we figured if you had climbed through the crux, this section the move shouldn't be considered a fall risk, so we didn't protect it with fixed gear. Someone later asked my friend for permission to add a bolt there and my friend agreed. If I had been asked, I would have said no for the reason mentoned above. The route When Buterflies Kiss Bumblebees is another example of this. The crux is below the wildly runout Rash pitch variation. A leader fall from the Rash pitch would likely totally hammer the person taking the fall, but there is no fixed gear (and to my mind little likelihood of good natural pro) on that pitch, and there shouldn't be because to get there takes more skill/psyche than the pitch itself. Just another facet to the conversation...I think.

There was one in front of me at the graocery store today. The back side reached down to the lumbar region, the sides were shaved and the front had bangs! It was like trying not to look at a grisly train wreck... horrific, yet fascinating at the same time.

Or G-Spotter= adolescent-pimple-faced-mullethead with a major inferiority complex.

e.g.

There's a pilated woodpecker in the trees in my yard that does a great rendition of the drum solo from Dave Brubeck's "Take Five". Not if it's written by Tyrone Green.

,so little time...

Duct tape, though useful, is temporary. Wire will stay on the job indefinately. As a young boy I used to venture out into the huge expanse of sagebrush surrounding my house. The older I got the further I ventured. One day, about the age of ten, I approached a high tension line tower I had spied in the distance from previous forays. Upon reaching the base of the tower, I found four coyotes and a bobcat hanging by the neck with bailing wire. As the years past and this macabre site became a familiar landmark, I witnessed the slow but steady disintegration of the carcasses to the point where there was little but a scattered pile of bones. One constant was the rusty wire coils, still the circumference of the dead beast's necks, swaying in the breeze.

Transmorgrification

Any type, gauge or length of wire that will get the job done. Super Glue is highly overrated unless you want to glue flesh to flesh.

I have not gone above the top of the second pitch, so the following is purely conjecture... Looking at various pictures of the south buttress, it looks as though it would go up the forked dihedrals visible in the picture below, then left into the, curving dihedral to the south. From the top of that dihedral, it seems it would go up the slabs, or perhaps the other corner system up and left, ending somewhere above, and maybe south of, the BIg Tree. I am guessing it stays south of the Kone. Again, purely conjecture. Adventure climbing at it's finest. Whitelaw's guide says the FA was in 1979 which leads me to believe any bolts or pins above pitch two are probably nearly 40 years old, any excavated cracks are again filled with dirt and any 'logged' shrubbery is mature second growth. PM me if you need a partner.

The old (orange) Whitelaw/Brooks guide talks about another 5 pitches heading right that eventually ends above the Big Tree. PM Markmckillop. I believe he was in on the FA.

"In the night of March 9th 1945 320 B-29 (6 tons of bomb each) make a incendiary raid on Tokyo by dropping 1667 tons of bombs (more than Hambourg in Europe). At 0h15 the first two bombers were dropping their bombs following perpendiculary axes so that a giant fire cross appeared in the center of the city. With a 45km/h wind 33km square of the city are burned and 100 000 civilians die: boiled in their pool where they had taken refuge, asphixied or burned; and another 100 000 are injured. This raid cost only 14 B-29 to the Americans of which many were damaged by the ascendant wind due to the fire and which pitched things 2000m high. In the next week the raids continue on the 5 major cities: March 12th Nagoya, 286 bombers destroy 5km square; March 14th 2240 tons of bombs explode on Osaka and remove 14km square of the city; Kobe is reduced of 5km square on the 16th; Nagoya is visited by 300 B-29 on March 22nd which drop their 2000 tons of stock; May 29th Yokohama is destroyed at 85% by 460 bombers and Tokyo is not spared: from April 13th to May 26th 4 raids of about 400 bombers each will destroy some 60km square of the city. With the night raid, the american losses are reduced to 1.4%. So the raids continue in the following months. On June 17th the 5 major cities have lost 80% of their industrial potential. The only big city which is not bombed is Kyoto, for religious reasons. In June the medium cities (350 000 inhabitants), about 25 of them, are also targeted. From July 12th the targets are all cities of 100 000 inhabitants and more." I don't know about 3,000,000, but Allied carpet bombing of Japanese cities killed many, many people.

You can get onto Canary, pitch2 from the top of Old Gray Mare. From a gear belay on top of Old Gray Mare, just go right and up. Makes for a fine two pitch climb.

Or use the Beckey approach and get on it first every time.