ScottP

"Tupac and Biggie, move over..." "I'm encrypting shit like every single day; sending it across a network in a safe way; protecting messages to make my pay; if you hack me you're guilty under DMCA." "You are a troller...one week ban...I know your other screen name, man." "Dear Internet, you've pwned my life...And if you had an orifice...I'd make you my wife." "When I had a modem it was hella exotic...Now high bandwidth is my narcotic."

You obviously don't like them, but you don't seem to like the idea of no belay in that spot either. Are you going to remove them? Are you going to replace them?

Leave the route as it is. The bolts are a part of the route. It has been successfully climbed the way it is countless times.

The Games Climbers Play Between pages 384-385 Plate 12 Reinhold's blackened toes, still attached.

This seemed a logical place to stop the times I've been up there...

It is a common head lice treatment.

From Wired.Com: Random Acts Of Spamness "The addition of seemingly nonsensical words is aimed at confusing the antispam filters that incorporate Bayesian analysis techniques, such as SpamBayes and SpamAssassin. These filters examine incoming e-mail messages and calculate the probability of it being spam based on each message's contents. But unlike simple content filters that simply troll text looking for specific words like Nigeria, money and opt, Bayesian spam filters evolve according to each user's needs, analyzing all mail to determine what words and phrases are apt to appear in a user's legitimate e-mail and which are not. This process is called training, and results in a highly personalized and efficient filtering system. By throwing a hundred or so random words rarely used in sales spiels into each e-mail missive, spammers hope to thwart Bayesian filters by making the spam appear to be personal correspondence. Incorporating words that might be used in legitimate e-mails is also intended to poison the checklist the filter uses, forcing it to mark, for example, e-mails with somewhat common words like Amazon and fish as spam indicators."

I did it some time ago (early 90's?) as a consolation after taking nothing but draws on Newest Industry, seriously dogging the crux and then bailing after finding the need for gear way out from the last bolt (I've never trusted a Smoot guide since.) It was somewhat dirty even then. If you are ticking off Index routes, I'd say it's worthy of a look, but certainly not a destination in itself.

Not.

Ditto that....as of about 11:00 pm yesterday.

Delusional fantasy.

Welcome back.

Arguing about how many bolts on whicheverfuckall route hardly seems like a topic needing "further information and insight"... Oh wait, here's some insight; get a life and quit nitpicking about useless shit. To Catbirdseat: Thanks for the TR. It actually restoked my enthusiasm for a crag I thought to be rather forgettable the first, and only time I visited it way before there were enough bolts to (mis)count and argue about. Too bad it degenerated into the typical useless crap.

Seems to me perhaps not all Mountaineers ascribe to the horde mentality... especially when they aren't the first horde on the route.

...and cc.com as well.

Why, they put it on enchiladas, of course.

I'm not a mind reader... Who do you think it is?

This may have been mentioned previously, but anyway... A while back a friend and I put in a route at Darrington that had a 10b crux on a frictiony slab where one scrabbles at an ever widening seam (and okay placements) until reaching a good crack. On the last pitch we left a 30-40 foot runout on 5.8 ground (Darrington slab) with a final step over to a good crack. The spicy part was that that final step over to the crack left one looking down over an edge into a large dihedral (not part of the route). A fall from that spot would have been nasty, but we figured if you had climbed through the crux, this section the move shouldn't be considered a fall risk, so we didn't protect it with fixed gear. Someone later asked my friend for permission to add a bolt there and my friend agreed. If I had been asked, I would have said no for the reason mentoned above. The route When Buterflies Kiss Bumblebees is another example of this. The crux is below the wildly runout Rash pitch variation. A leader fall from the Rash pitch would likely totally hammer the person taking the fall, but there is no fixed gear (and to my mind little likelihood of good natural pro) on that pitch, and there shouldn't be because to get there takes more skill/psyche than the pitch itself. Just another facet to the conversation...I think.

There was one in front of me at the graocery store today. The back side reached down to the lumbar region, the sides were shaved and the front had bangs! It was like trying not to look at a grisly train wreck... horrific, yet fascinating at the same time.

Or G-Spotter= adolescent-pimple-faced-mullethead with a major inferiority complex.

e.g.

There's a pilated woodpecker in the trees in my yard that does a great rendition of the drum solo from Dave Brubeck's "Take Five". Not if it's written by Tyrone Green.