Peter_Puget

Didn't happen to me. I think that people like and use the figure eight not because of any energy absorption qualities but because it is easy to learn.

that's what I thought.

Are you saying it is granite? Snoqualmie granite rules! I must say I have trouble believing the Tooth is granite. There are lots of cool granite crags around Snoqualmie though.

Ya Erik but would it be an FA? That's the only way we'll find a sponser. Seriously why isnt there a million different routes up the thing? Is it ine big rubble pile?

Ok I’ll admit it I have never climbed the Tooth, never been up close to it but I can’t help wonder if people climb all over the thing. From the picture it looks like there is a lot of rock. Is it all easy? Are there steeper sections that could be climbed? Is the rock crap? (like Guye peak) Inquiring minds want to know! PP

K-I-M-B-E-R-L-Y

It's true Buffy has gone downhill but I will still be sad as the credits start rolling. PP

I'd say Clay is a good test peice for 5.11 crack climbing. Lots of different size cracks and cruxes. Whoever mentioned Old grey Mare is right that is an outstanding route. That 5.11b sport route at the Royal Columns is a good sport climbing test piece for the grade. Good rock, fun crux that is more than one move, nice exposure good bolts. In the Valley Mid-term is a good easy 10 test piece going from tips to chimney in one pitch.

Now that show pulls on the heartstrings like nothing else! Breakout the tissues!

OW Is there a route climbing some drill marks to the left of the rout ein yoru pic? PP

Sadly it's true Buffy will soon be off the air. Maybe now I will find time to go to a Pub Club! Buffy kicks a#$! PP

Only a bit related - “The latest copy of Music Week lands dop on my floor. I gloss over such fascinating topics as Courtney Love's new album, and "HMV pulling out stops for Madonna PA", and land on Page 3 "UK publisher owed £1.5m as Dr Dre loses sample dispute". This dispute is, in fact, not about a sample, it is about ownership of the notes of a bassline. Dr Dre replayed note for note the bassline from Fatback Band's "Backstrokin'" (??) under his track "Let's Get High", arguing that it was not possible to protect the bass line notes. He lost the case, and the publisher, John Fogarty, says that it would be absurd if you could not protect defining basslines such as "Backstrokin" or "Another one bites the dust" (although I recall Queen saying that this owed something to Chic…) I am sure all this is absolutely right – although I cannot help thinking that the basslines in rock music are a much more dangerous area, as they are often not "written" by the "writer". Entwhistle's contribution to Who tunes can clearly be heard by comparing the final masters with Townsend's demos. And what of the wonderful bassline to Paul Simon's "Kodachrome" (as played by T Lev), or the guitar line on "Heroes" by Bowie & Eno. Are these contributions part of the "publishing" or not? If they are, then that surely would strengthen the argument of those session musicians and minor members, who feel that they should be receiving a share of the publishing. “ PP

Erik it's not slabby trad granite!

I must be starting to think like you Erik. And please use the word cutlet!!! PP

Mattp – I agree that for the most part 38 isn’t a great place to climb but there are some really good climbs hiding on the cutlets. (Cutlets is a term for a 38 clifflet that was inspired by ChucK’s post earlier today and I hope to see it become commonly used) These few climbs are worth finding and would be considered good climbs even if they were at Index or Leavenworth or Squamish. Don’t stay down in the dross ascend to the heavens! Last time I was there I was looking at some bolts that were looking kinda funky and couldn’t help but think that perhaps instead of adding new routes the FA parties might want to upgrade some of their existing routes. PP

OW - As soon as it's set up up and you're moderating not one peron will have to think that way again! PP

What type of pro is easiest to place? Some examples: 1 Second pitch of Reed’s Pinnacle Direct: Nuts way easier to place until the last twenty feet! 2 Virtually any crack at Indian Creek: I say cams are easier to place! 3 Midterm – cam again! 4Iron Horse – Nuts rule! In general I would say that cams are easier to place but that esp in the smaller sizes a good nut is far better than a good cam. What should a beginner buy? I agree with Jason – only buy a few cams but also only buy a couple of med to large hex type pieces. Placing pro is almost and art and an essential skill to be safe while climbing. (it is also essential to be efficient!) It is best to learn this skill on easier climbs – as a beginner – than at the school of hard knocks later. A selection of stopper type pieces is essential and then I would buy some hex type things. In general don’t buy the smallest and largest of each type. My personal preference is Wild Country stoppers. REI has Clog stoppers on sale. These are essentially old style Wild Country (same manufacturer.) As far as Hexes I have only used BD but there seems to be a number of options now. Id say go with what you main partner uses so that your sizing will remain consistent. Unless of course he/she hates what he/she bought. PP

Looking at some of the “good and a couple bad things” about Exit 38 – Good 1 At the remote crags you can get away from people. 2 Great views from the upper crags. 3 Lots of good easy to moderate routes. 4 Some good harder routes as well eg Passage 12a at Valley View East. 5 Lost Resort has some very good .10s and .11s. Downside: 1 Most of the good climbing has a long approach. 2 Ratings all screwed up. Note to Mods: This is another post that would more appropriate for a Rock Climbing forum than the Alpine Lakes forum. PP

See this place needs a rock climbing forum! Here is an abbreviated hit list of my favs mostly at the bottom of the valley. Arch Rock Anticpation Blotto (AKA Axis) Gripper New D Torque Converter Cookie Hardd Crack A Go Go Red Zinger Meat Grinder Nabisco Wall all variations including Aftershock Start Catchy with Catchy corner Pinky Paralysis –my fav TR Fish Crack Moratorium A three pitch semi traversing route new moratorium whose name I forget really good. Texas Chain Saw Massacre Hot Line All the mid height cracks on the Rostrum PP

This Link has decent foam. It took three days from when the order was placed until the merch arrived. I split my order with a friend and for $17.00 my pad is like new. ATTN MODS: This post would be perfect for a rock climbing forum. PP

Hammocks work just fine for a night or two hanging on the wall any more than that and you will really appreciate the portaledge. I have spent nights both on the Chief and On El Cap in both a hammocks of my own design and a Forrest model. I designed my own rainfly.. I even spent a few nights in the rain once with wet snow. Wet wet wet! Last time in the hammock I swore I would never spend another night in it. But let’s say I was climbing a route on MT Watkins and planning on spending one night out, I would definitely bring the hammock rather than lugging a ledge. If I were planning on climbing a long El Cap route w/o ledges, I would buy a portaledge. If I was planning on starting off on some grade Vs, I would consider saving money and buying a hammock. The Fish econoledge might be a good deal except I do not believe it has a rainfly so it is best suited to team up with someone with a double hammock w/ fly. It looks like the hammock in the picture has buckles on all the straps. Make sure they are robust and not cheap. Scottp is right when he says hammocks are tight in the shoulders even with spreader bars but my main problem was my feet hanging off the edge and as I slept the hammock slowly turning into a chair. Aything I wrote above notwithstnding I have never slept well in a hammock. PP EDITT addition: If I was climbing when bad weather was to be expected I would never use a hammock.

I think the ratings are for the most part pretty good. The rock does require a different technique and that may be responsible the “stiff” ratings. Only one route I have climbed strikes me as being over rated in the area: Wildcat Crack. The thing that bugs me is the sometimes funky pro. The cracks often flare inward and do not constrict in a nice curve. Think of Paul Maul - no jamming, more like hole plugging, plus nuts are crazy on that route. If you spend a lot of time climbing at 38 or Vantage at least in the easier grades (5.0-5.10) you will end up with very distorted view of how ratings work at other areas. Oh yea, Stress Management seemed more like 5.10 to me and is given a 5.9. Overall Vantage PP

Gym is in Portland!

No pads here! http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=13425

The image on your posts looks like the mask in this picture. Are you a furry? PP