Peter_Puget

DFA drive up here and let's go limestoning!

Silly! Everyone has the same questions! Here are some limstone pics:

My plans are to go rock climbing. The problem is just where. 1 Can you climb at New Halem just after rain? 2 Is there snow at the higher crags in the Tieton? 3 Any thoughts on Spokane limestone? Was dragged there once 15 years ago but we didn’t go to any of the now developed areas. Why aren’t people talking about these routes? PP Of course this should be posted in the new ROCK CLIMBING FOUM!

what is this thing a human being?

Very overhanging crack. It’s short but really hard! You need two ropes to TR because it overhangs so much. Gutbuster is right of the road and very easy to TR. Short overhanging flared finger hand crack with, for me at least, mega reaches between jams. Perfect end of the day project. Hasn't anyone else tried or done these? PP

I know it takes pro, I was just wondering how TCUs worked! Haven’t been on it since my rack had TCUs. Now what about those bolts! PP

Hey stop turning this vital thread into a snoozefest. But since you brought up bolts, does anyone remember if the bolts on Stevens Pass Motel are old ¼” ones that I seem to remember. Does anyone else think that they were placed in completely bogus positions? Does the crack take TCUs well? I remember stoppers were at best a pain to place and the crack being shallow. PP

If you are into this kinda stuff

Well Dwayner I hate to admit it but I have never actually watched a full episode of Buffy. Last night I did see the very ending where Sunnydale was transformed into a huge hole. I think this four minutes of viewing pleasure doesn’t give me enough of the “Buffy” experience to judge last night’s episode. Kinda like you and sport climbing. The idea of a woman who can transform herself into a crash pad is close to perfection. Of course the same is true for us guys just imagine Muffy’s dainty feet walking all over you. Now if you want me judge last night’s Spongebob episodes I am your man! Spongebob Squarepants! PP

Jams are pretty technical unlike the cracks on Midnight plus the sucker really overhangs. I need to get back on the Gutbuster too came pretty close to doing that sucka! PP

A wonderful summary! Just imagine next Tuesday I will be free to drive to the PC just when it's Tacoma's turn! PP

Well I guess I can hold out for another week or two. Can't wait for the new guide tho.

And here I am listening to another super album: Blonde on Blonde! Get it! Live it!

Last show tonight

Nice topo. Forget the bolts tell us about the route. I gather you liked it. PP

It's quite a bit harder than 5.9 you must have been in great shape bck then!

Backside of Givler's

Anyone else been on this route? It has the most painful freaking jamming I have ever done! Didn’t redpoint it but thinking of working on it this fall. PP

What negativity. What inspires such posts? Anyway considering that the old one is hard to find if you don’t have one or lost your copy, you are missing EVERYTHING! But it would be nice to have a groovy topo of Pearly Gates or directions to the Criss Cross Cracks - which are the best cracks in the area. PP

demanding the new Leavwenworth Guidebook! PP

With the frustrations of city life getting me down I got back to basics last Saturday in Leavenworth. Inspired by the fine pictures of Distel posted last week I went cordless for a day of pure climbing fun. Armed with the Bouldering Guide to Leavenworth I became a “Pad Person.” I haven’t gone on a specifically bouldering trip for over 20 years and as we drove into the Icicle I was wishing that we brought along a rope. Cars and people were everywhere and I was certain I was going to be bummed out at the crowds. The approach to the boulders was quick, easy ,and light as we carried nothing but shoes, chalk and pads. The guide was easy to read and despite not being comprehensive showed the major lines. We were amazed that we were all alone surrounded by a beautiful forest and boulders when less than five minutes away people were everywhere. We soon heard the voices and I was preparing myself for the attack of the rude teenagers. As it turned out the “teenagers” where low key, super friendly and we ended up working on problems together - even sharing pads. Although these guys could outclimb me in their tennies they weren’t obsessed with high numbers and were encouraging this middleaged fart to send that V3! I soon realized that I had ended up spending the entire day at these boulders and was more psyched about climbing than in years. As we drove home I was wishing that I could spend the night and climb Sunday as well. Things I learned: 1 The Bouldering Guide to Leavenworth 2 Pad People 3 Leavenworth Bouldering 4 I suck at Bouldering PP

Hate 'em Every time I go out this year I get one or two! Despite anti- tick measures. PP

Dogbone? What is it? Sorry if somebody has mentioned this earlier in the thread but - I sometimes bring one of these set-ups on a route: Materials: 2 ea. ‘biners 1 ea. Spectra sling 1 ea Length of high pressure tubing from auto store slightly shorter than sling. Cut groove for carabiner at both ends of tubing. Thread sling through tubing and secure a ‘biner to each end. Usage: Slide tubing up to carabiner at the clip to bolt end of draw. This stabilizes the ‘biner and enables your reach to be extended simply by holding the bottom of draw. After clipping the bolt the tubing slides down and semi secures bottom ‘biner while freeing the bolt side. Not for everyday use but on routes with bad clips this system works. PP

ChucK -What's a dogbone draw?

G is pretty much right on except the Left Side is easy for the grade. No one has actually stated the difference between trad and sport. (eg is the B-Y sport or trad?) Depending on your definition some answers and claims by others with differing definitions will be complete BS. One thing no one has addressed are trad routes with difficult route finding and hard to place protection such routes do exist and do require more skills than the ability to bust a move. PP