Peter_Puget

What negativity. What inspires such posts? Anyway considering that the old one is hard to find if you don’t have one or lost your copy, you are missing EVERYTHING! But it would be nice to have a groovy topo of Pearly Gates or directions to the Criss Cross Cracks - which are the best cracks in the area. PP

demanding the new Leavwenworth Guidebook! PP

With the frustrations of city life getting me down I got back to basics last Saturday in Leavenworth. Inspired by the fine pictures of Distel posted last week I went cordless for a day of pure climbing fun. Armed with the Bouldering Guide to Leavenworth I became a “Pad Person.” I haven’t gone on a specifically bouldering trip for over 20 years and as we drove into the Icicle I was wishing that we brought along a rope. Cars and people were everywhere and I was certain I was going to be bummed out at the crowds. The approach to the boulders was quick, easy ,and light as we carried nothing but shoes, chalk and pads. The guide was easy to read and despite not being comprehensive showed the major lines. We were amazed that we were all alone surrounded by a beautiful forest and boulders when less than five minutes away people were everywhere. We soon heard the voices and I was preparing myself for the attack of the rude teenagers. As it turned out the “teenagers” where low key, super friendly and we ended up working on problems together - even sharing pads. Although these guys could outclimb me in their tennies they weren’t obsessed with high numbers and were encouraging this middleaged fart to send that V3! I soon realized that I had ended up spending the entire day at these boulders and was more psyched about climbing than in years. As we drove home I was wishing that I could spend the night and climb Sunday as well. Things I learned: 1 The Bouldering Guide to Leavenworth 2 Pad People 3 Leavenworth Bouldering 4 I suck at Bouldering PP

Hate 'em Every time I go out this year I get one or two! Despite anti- tick measures. PP

Dogbone? What is it? Sorry if somebody has mentioned this earlier in the thread but - I sometimes bring one of these set-ups on a route: Materials: 2 ea. ‘biners 1 ea. Spectra sling 1 ea Length of high pressure tubing from auto store slightly shorter than sling. Cut groove for carabiner at both ends of tubing. Thread sling through tubing and secure a ‘biner to each end. Usage: Slide tubing up to carabiner at the clip to bolt end of draw. This stabilizes the ‘biner and enables your reach to be extended simply by holding the bottom of draw. After clipping the bolt the tubing slides down and semi secures bottom ‘biner while freeing the bolt side. Not for everyday use but on routes with bad clips this system works. PP

ChucK -What's a dogbone draw?

G is pretty much right on except the Left Side is easy for the grade. No one has actually stated the difference between trad and sport. (eg is the B-Y sport or trad?) Depending on your definition some answers and claims by others with differing definitions will be complete BS. One thing no one has addressed are trad routes with difficult route finding and hard to place protection such routes do exist and do require more skills than the ability to bust a move. PP

Didn't happen to me. I think that people like and use the figure eight not because of any energy absorption qualities but because it is easy to learn.

that's what I thought.

Are you saying it is granite? Snoqualmie granite rules! I must say I have trouble believing the Tooth is granite. There are lots of cool granite crags around Snoqualmie though.

Ya Erik but would it be an FA? That's the only way we'll find a sponser. Seriously why isnt there a million different routes up the thing? Is it ine big rubble pile?

Ok I’ll admit it I have never climbed the Tooth, never been up close to it but I can’t help wonder if people climb all over the thing. From the picture it looks like there is a lot of rock. Is it all easy? Are there steeper sections that could be climbed? Is the rock crap? (like Guye peak) Inquiring minds want to know! PP

K-I-M-B-E-R-L-Y

It's true Buffy has gone downhill but I will still be sad as the credits start rolling. PP

I'd say Clay is a good test peice for 5.11 crack climbing. Lots of different size cracks and cruxes. Whoever mentioned Old grey Mare is right that is an outstanding route. That 5.11b sport route at the Royal Columns is a good sport climbing test piece for the grade. Good rock, fun crux that is more than one move, nice exposure good bolts. In the Valley Mid-term is a good easy 10 test piece going from tips to chimney in one pitch.

Now that show pulls on the heartstrings like nothing else! Breakout the tissues!

OW Is there a route climbing some drill marks to the left of the rout ein yoru pic? PP

Sadly it's true Buffy will soon be off the air. Maybe now I will find time to go to a Pub Club! Buffy kicks a#$! PP

Only a bit related - “The latest copy of Music Week lands dop on my floor. I gloss over such fascinating topics as Courtney Love's new album, and "HMV pulling out stops for Madonna PA", and land on Page 3 "UK publisher owed £1.5m as Dr Dre loses sample dispute". This dispute is, in fact, not about a sample, it is about ownership of the notes of a bassline. Dr Dre replayed note for note the bassline from Fatback Band's "Backstrokin'" (??) under his track "Let's Get High", arguing that it was not possible to protect the bass line notes. He lost the case, and the publisher, John Fogarty, says that it would be absurd if you could not protect defining basslines such as "Backstrokin" or "Another one bites the dust" (although I recall Queen saying that this owed something to Chic…) I am sure all this is absolutely right – although I cannot help thinking that the basslines in rock music are a much more dangerous area, as they are often not "written" by the "writer". Entwhistle's contribution to Who tunes can clearly be heard by comparing the final masters with Townsend's demos. And what of the wonderful bassline to Paul Simon's "Kodachrome" (as played by T Lev), or the guitar line on "Heroes" by Bowie & Eno. Are these contributions part of the "publishing" or not? If they are, then that surely would strengthen the argument of those session musicians and minor members, who feel that they should be receiving a share of the publishing. “ PP

Erik it's not slabby trad granite!

I must be starting to think like you Erik. And please use the word cutlet!!! PP

Mattp – I agree that for the most part 38 isn’t a great place to climb but there are some really good climbs hiding on the cutlets. (Cutlets is a term for a 38 clifflet that was inspired by ChucK’s post earlier today and I hope to see it become commonly used) These few climbs are worth finding and would be considered good climbs even if they were at Index or Leavenworth or Squamish. Don’t stay down in the dross ascend to the heavens! Last time I was there I was looking at some bolts that were looking kinda funky and couldn’t help but think that perhaps instead of adding new routes the FA parties might want to upgrade some of their existing routes. PP

OW - As soon as it's set up up and you're moderating not one peron will have to think that way again! PP

What type of pro is easiest to place? Some examples: 1 Second pitch of Reed’s Pinnacle Direct: Nuts way easier to place until the last twenty feet! 2 Virtually any crack at Indian Creek: I say cams are easier to place! 3 Midterm – cam again! 4Iron Horse – Nuts rule! In general I would say that cams are easier to place but that esp in the smaller sizes a good nut is far better than a good cam. What should a beginner buy? I agree with Jason – only buy a few cams but also only buy a couple of med to large hex type pieces. Placing pro is almost and art and an essential skill to be safe while climbing. (it is also essential to be efficient!) It is best to learn this skill on easier climbs – as a beginner – than at the school of hard knocks later. A selection of stopper type pieces is essential and then I would buy some hex type things. In general don’t buy the smallest and largest of each type. My personal preference is Wild Country stoppers. REI has Clog stoppers on sale. These are essentially old style Wild Country (same manufacturer.) As far as Hexes I have only used BD but there seems to be a number of options now. Id say go with what you main partner uses so that your sizing will remain consistent. Unless of course he/she hates what he/she bought. PP

Looking at some of the “good and a couple bad things” about Exit 38 – Good 1 At the remote crags you can get away from people. 2 Great views from the upper crags. 3 Lots of good easy to moderate routes. 4 Some good harder routes as well eg Passage 12a at Valley View East. 5 Lost Resort has some very good .10s and .11s. Downside: 1 Most of the good climbing has a long approach. 2 Ratings all screwed up. Note to Mods: This is another post that would more appropriate for a Rock Climbing forum than the Alpine Lakes forum. PP