Stefan

Standard route off of Dorado Needle is via the north ridge until you come to steep snow (180 feet) on the east (may be melted) and then you have to contend with a bergschrund to access the McAllister Glacier later in the year. The north ridge is low but solid class 5. The NW side of Dorado Needle could be in the class 3-4 range. Early Morning Spire best way off it is probably through a minor class 5 climb just north of Marble Needle (8401) and south of Praying Mantis (8360+). Go over Marble Needle and down the SW towards the McAllister. There is a minor class 4 section to get down off of Marble Needle. I have seen Beckey's route around the 8000 foot pass north of there and it did not look appealing with all the glacial breakup on the western slopes of McAllister. I did these both last year. Though, not up the standard tough routes.

I don't know if you just rock climb, just alpine, or both. I only like to do Alpine stuff and I keep it below 5.8 so I am not sure of all the mental capabilities of doing 5.10+ sport or trad. Mentally what helps me is this: finding high carbo food that I like and eating something every 1 hour--I keep stuff in my pockets and eat on the hour (and not much each time), taking a sip of water every 15 minutes from my hose. I don't break much to keep my muscles moving. And most importantly having a partner who is motivated to do what you are doing. That partner thing is the key. The combined power of two climbers is much greater than the sum of two separate climbers.

Cavey, I think you would stop for anybody regardless of how bad you think they were a fuckwad. Most mountaineering folk are nice and would help out for another mountaineering dude in hlep. Now if you were some Frenchie dude in lycra then I would believe you.

Take a bike!!!! Unless of course you like walking the logging roads for up to 3 hours! A bike also speeds up the time.

You know what's better than Cytomax? Frozen concentrated orange juice. I buy it by the caseload when the cost goes to $.60 a can and keep in the freezer. One disadvantage.......can't really carry a can for the next day. But for one day outings, I highly recommend frozen concentrate orange juice. And if you use a bladder, buy the non-pulp stuff as it could get caught in the hose.

My main project: Learn to walk again.

Don, let me know if you want to email John Roper. I know him pretty well.

One answer. Pay toilets.

I know of some people who have done it. Mainly in the spring. During a "normal" winter the road is stopped at the Mt. Baker highway making access to this peak longgggggg.

quote: Originally posted by fern: you ask for the most remote range that people almost never visit and then lament the lack of photos? does the paradox escape you? Point well taken Fern. I thought at least some climbing junkie would have been there and taken pictures and put it on a website somewhere......

I can't find a decent picture of any peaks in the Omenica or Cassair range ANYWHERE. Does anybody have any suggestions?

The best wands I found are not orange or yellow or red or any fricken color, but something with reflective tape. I found that you can still see the wands if they are black in a snowstorm, but you can't see ANY fricken wand if they don't have any of that specialized reflective tape during the dark with your headlamp. Where to get the reflective tape? Hell, I don't know, but it should be reflective tape that acts like a back reflector on your car. This way, when you get to one wand in the dark, you just scan the slope with your headlamp for the next one wand, and walla, it appears like a "little flash" in the night. [ 11-26-2002, 09:50 AM: Message edited by: Stefan ]

quote: Originally posted by Fairweather: "I'm still not happy that the summit registers are not wheelchair accessible" Is this point, re The Americans With Disabilities Act (ADA), not just as valid as radical environmentalist's readings of The Wilderness Act? I am happy when I see the ADA used to blunt obnoxious interpretations of The Wilderness Act of 1964. Here! Here! I am in a wheelchair at the present time! More power to us!

That area bites? Really? I have always thought of going there.......

Most people of Islam are peaceful people. You only hear about the bad people. Same thing happens here in the U.S. Most people are good people you only hear about the bad people.

Dru, I am still in a wheelchair! I am just thinking of possibilities for my next vacation.....

So what is the least visited mountain group in British Columbia? Would this group also be considered the most remote in British Columbia? (By remote, I mean from any logging road.) [ 11-22-2002, 03:08 PM: Message edited by: Stefan ]

I don't know who did it, but I was told it was done....how? I don't know if they stayed all the time on the ridge proper.

Another hardman tour: Pickets traverse staying on the ridge proper. I think this has been done...it doesn't have to be new to be hardman stuff.

Here is my prognosis: Left foot: Fractured talis bone. No weight bearing for another six weeks. Right foot: Broken fibia in half. Now wearing a plate to mend the fibia. Permanent for life. In addition I have a pin, and screw to hold a piece of my lower bone together where it meets the talis. I start therapy in two weeks on my right leg when the cast is removed. In wheelchair currently. Should I do any leg lifts to help out the quads during the process from wheelchair to crutches? [ 11-20-2002, 05:40 PM: Message edited by: Stefan ]

What about this Pantheon range? Have you guys been there?

I usually post a "best of" for my year. It is not a top five though....some of you have seen it.... Here's my best of....worst of.....climbing list for 2002! Deepest Snow Conditions (tie): Barometer / Nasikelt (Snow was consistently up to the knees with snowshoes on) Scariest: Meridian Hill (I ran into a man that was angry enough to shoot me!) Longest road walk on snowshoes: Voodoo (It went on and on and on....) Wettest: Sopa (Alton and I were soaked. Definitely one of my top's for being wet) Best spring trip: Gardner/Shelokum (Conditions were excellent) Hardest trip: Gabriel (I got my ass wupped by the North Cascades) Most Confused descent: Trapper (What were we thinking?) Worst bivy: North Hozomeen (At 5000' had mosquitos, too warm, no comfortable position...) The traverse that never ended: Perdition Peak (It went on and on and on...) Best Cascade View: Dome Peak (If you haven't done, do it.) Best Trip with McKenna: Abercrombie (BIG views!) Most invigorating climb: Dufourspitze (Switzerland) (Awesome views too!) Most elevation gain in a day: Dom (Switzerland) (over 10,500 feet in a day!) Best fall trip: Concord/Lexington/NEWS (In one day!) Worst accident: Mount Temple (Thankful that I am here writing this to you today.)

I will be looking at maps. I just wanted the expert opinion from people who have been to these areas. I liked the pictures of the Tchaikazan Valley and the Niut Range. I could not find pictures for the Battle Range or Melville Group. Drew, I saw a picture that said "Bifrost Pass" area going from Geddes to Zeus. That area looks intriguing. Is access via road or helicopter to that particularly large area?

Mt Triumph. North Face Central Rib. In Winter.

It was good to see you too Pencil Pusher! To answer your question, I posted on cc.com with a laptop..... A face with a name! Dudes, the wheelchair thing is a chick magnet! [ 11-18-2002, 12:39 PM: Message edited by: Stefan ]