Stefan

I will be up there next week. Can you give me your friends email address so I know exactly where this avalanche debris is at, so I can find another way around? Thanks.

You can do Stormking in combination with NE Buttress of Goode in one day and getting back to your bivy camp. It just depends on your speed of ascent and descent. Here’s an option if you want to combine Logan into your trip: On the way to the Bridge Creek trailhead, drop off a bike at the Easy Pass trailhead (if you don’t think you will be able to hitch a ride). After your combined ascent of Goode and Stormking I recommend you go to the end of the North Fork of Bridge Creek and ascend Logan from there via the Douglas Glacier. Come out via Easy Pass and to your bike—which you then can ride to the Bridge Creek trailhead.

When we came out of Denali many years ago, we told base camp Annie we needed a lift back to Talkeetna with Doug Geeting not knowing when we would get back to Talkeetna. We arrived at 9:00p.m. that night to base camp. We were then told that we were going to leave in 30 minutes becuase a plane was coming in. I wish I would have had 8 hours to just sit and enjoy the splendor of those mountains.

Booker's face is very steep, but not vertical for the requirements of base jumping. It is very similar to Goode's northeast side in steepness.

You didn't come down the Bedayn couloir did you? If not, you were a smart man.

Cheap quick answer for heals and toes: Duct tape. I shave the top of my feet from hair (becuase it hurts taking duct tape off). Then I tape my foot/heal in such a way that the duct tape does not move. This is done BEFORE the climb. I have found no other tape (I have tried a lot, and Dr. Scholl stuff) that will stay on for 3-4 days at a time, or on a winter outing in leather boots. You can not tape too tight. Why duct tape? Becuase I carry duct tape with me in the backcountry for all sorts of uses and I do not have to depend on other "special" items.

Okay. I can't believe I am telling you guys this. I am claiming the first nude solo ascent of Unicorn Peak in MRNP. I did it many, many years ago. I just thought it appropriate to do this when I saw the peak from the visitors center. The actual peak looks like something hard sticking up high. So I thought it was appropriate to solo it nude.

Saw the north side of Jack on Friday. Lots of snow still up there. I was too far away to determine how much snow on rocks or if there was a cornice.

I did North Hozomeen this last weekend. As we were driving back up the LONG gravel road we noticed a VERY big wall up high just NE of Silver Lake I believe. Yosemite-like. It looks like a bitch to get to. Does this wall have a name?

Thanks for the info on the wall. It looks huge to me. We climbed the gully on the SW side of the North Hozomeen peak. It was filled with snow. We planned to do the South Hozomeen the next day, but motivation was a factor.... We camped at about 5000 feet up there.

I want to say Frostbite, but the background does not match my guess.....

Give me a hint. Name the peak in the background on the right of the peak in question.

Here's what you do: 1) go to this webpage: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/regions/NorthCentral/Maint/Area3/nc2002/default.htm 2) click on "North Central Region" link in the upper left hand corner. 3) click on "Administration" link almost in the center of the page. 4) go to the "Donn Senn" email address and send him an email about your frustration. Maybe others too in that list.

If a man cannot climb rock without altering its aesthetics, then that man should not be there. Improve your climbing skill or get out of rockclimbing. Stop bolting.

So, Vege in the meantime while I figure this out, Thursday?

I accidently put vegetablebelay on my "ignore list" for PM's! How do I remove him from that list? I so want him to write me sweet nothings! How do I take him off my "ignore list"!!!????

Okay people. How was the Cascade road this past weekend? I want details!!! Thanks!

Oh for the love of God man! I am trying to figure it out!

Okay sir. Maybe you have got me. Maybe not. What the hell is West Pole Brand???

Dru, There are only certain places on 8000 meter peaks on the traditional routes where there are fixed lines. There is never a continual fixed line from base camp to the summit on any 8000 meter peak, and yet people still decide to go unroped.

On traditional standard routes up 8000 meter peaks most people do not rope up (when they are away from the lower glacial activity). It becomes too dangerous in pulling your partner off the climbs with you......as in what happened with Mt. Hood. But Mt. Hood had a chain reaction where there were two parties below...... So not roping up may be the wisest of choices. It depends on your "experience" and risk with your partners. But I never understood why climbers roped up in the hogsback area in the first place becuase there is no glacial activity in that section (except for the bergschrund) and there is no 5th class climbing. I guess if people were roping up on a steep slope, then they should at least be putting pickets in--otherwise, what is the point of roping up?

Badandy or danielpatricksmith. Matterhorn. I need Beta. I plan on doing it this summer. I see you have done it badandy, but what about you danielpatricksmith? Email me. Email me too badandy. By the way I will be scrambling some peaks on Friday afternoon just east of Mt. Rainier. Let me know if you are interested. (Seymour/Dewey) peaks. [ 06-06-2002, 01:12 PM: Message edited by: Stefan ]

Dru, Sounds to me like climbing is a drug for you and you have become slightly immmune to its affects. (i.e. the Snake and 1 month versus 2 days of feelings....) and of course you want more...... Maybe that's the problem. You want more and are not satisfied with what you do have. My god man! There are children starving in Ethiopia and all you care about is your feeling for climbing!!!!

That is great info. I will be up there the weekend of the 15th too..... So, I will be asking again next week to see if the Forest Service or NPS did any improvement.... Two years ago at this exact time I was able to mountainbike to the end of the road and I never came across one downed tree. I can't wait to get up there!

Come on guys. Anybody up there this past weekend? I know the road is gated, but is it mountainbikable to the Cascade Pass trailhead?