Stefan

I have never tried this but I have heard several people doing this to save weight. My question: Use of a skyhook or fifi hook, aren't you guys afraid of the "hook" dislodging into some type of rock crevasse when the rope comes down, thereby requiring you to climb back up and dislodge it???

From several of the pictures it definitely looks like a beginner has placed some bolts (next to a valid pro placement) and a sport hold. I have never seen sport hold on a natural rock--the person who did that must be quite uneducated. Then the graffiti.....if it was the same person doing this, then I would have to think it was a young teenager.

Ummmm. I thought the 9/11 Commission said the voice cockpit recordings could hear people banging on the cockpit door. The 9/11 Commission assumed the hijackers knew the door was going to be broken down soon and so directed the plane downward. Noone ever broke into the cockpit--but they tried. Black box recordings cannot show a contingent of people breaking into the cockpit. I guess the descrepancy shows the validity of this article.

Contact Dwayner. One time he was screwed over by a mountain climbing expedition somebody else was putting together. I am sure he would like to make that up by going to Cho Oyeah.

Here! Here! Me too. I ams sick of this hardman climbing too!

Good job. Looks like great fun. I enjoy the picture of the sleeping bag with a bowl? on the face. I have empathy. A bivy bag helps but does not stop the incessant whining noise they make!

My three year old is in the back of the car after 3 hours of driving and complaining quite vigoriously. Mom says, "if you don't stop complaining, we will never stop." 3 year old replies, quickly, and sarcastically, "I can complain louder if you would like."

Good job you two on some beautiful looking lines. Hope you and CJZ still remain good friends and for the future. Climbing is easy compared to personalities of climbing partners.

Good to hear that extraction worked. I had a friend who had a similar extraction. That airlift to Harborview is in the $13,000 range.

I enjoy reading through summit registers. I have a lot of friends who go mountain climbing and when I see their name in the register there is a strong feeling of kinship I have with that friend of mine. It means I have shared the same experience and views as they did.

Your plans sound solid to me 007. I like the trip to Denver too. My recommendation drive to Leadville (I think it is something like 10K feet) and just hang out and drink beer. You will get acclimatized in Leadville with no problem. Plan your trip on leaving from Denver and going straight to China/Nepal or whatever your choice of entry is. Just do what is natural to you. Don't listen to these other yahoos. They don't know anything about climbing 8000meter peaks....well I know Marek knows a little something. Follow your dreams, you can do it. BTW, do us a trip report too--we want to know how far you got.

Registers are not necessary. Climbing is not necessary. It all depends on your own personal opinion of how far you want to take a "necessary evil". I still do not believe you should destroy something other people value. Some people believe a fire ring is a necessary evil to enjoy a fire. Others will destroy the fire ring to stop people from building fires. Chances are, another person will come buy and build a new fire ring if the old one is destroyed. I wonder why Europe has so many crosses on top of mountains? Maybe the people value that symbol when they get to the summit. Maybe a register has a value of a symbol in the same manner. Alpinfox would go crazy in Europe with all those bolted crosses!

I have never seen a summit register chained to a boulder. I don't think I ever will either and I have never heard of such a thing. Every single summit register I have encountered and heard about is nonpermanent. So I still don't see the problem. I think I understand you see summit registers as trash because it is manmade, but you are trying to make the argument that being on top of a mountain should be "free" of all man stuff, which really does not work. I guess in your argument to be consistent then the road that got you to the base of the climb is trash too. As well as the gas you used but "left behind". The trails you used. But you seem to tolerate that level of trash probably becuase you could not control those levels of trash. I wonder how other mountaineers would feel if you removed their Tibetan prayer flags from the Chinese bolted frame on top of Mt. Everest?

It seems everytime I go to a library, they are quiet too. I bet some people go to libraries to meditate too. Reading a fictional book might be considered meditation to some people. Is it "censorship" that we don't allow people to spraypaint grafitti on publicly owned buildings? Not the same thing. People are not allowed to spray paint on public buildings. I think that is illegal. You make a ridiculous counterargument. A sidewalk register chained to a lightpole would be bad form (permanent), but an announcement of an upcoming band or a "Vote For ____ " on paper on a lightpole is good form (nonpermanent) and is widely accepted (except for the guys who have to climb the lightpoles for maintenance). Removing documentation that you deem objectionable for another person whether your reason is moral or political is censorship.

For some reason we as a society value words written on paper. Like money. Like a book. It just seems to have more value on paper. Removing registers to me is like removing books out of a library becuase they were not deemed worthy. It is a form of censorship.

You know, it really looks like Sam Gamgee. Probably on his way up those steps in Mordor.

That's how government works. Right down to the city level. Seriously. But the Forest Service in this particular instance believe's that having maxed out their budget on two big suv's is MORE important than maximizing their budget on projects to improve trails.

thanks Klenke! I realize now I should ask you first every time. Forget Roper!

I am curious about this hunter's trail along Thunder Creek. Is this hunter's trail on the east or west side of the creek? What elevation did you come across it? About how far is this trail from the creek? Any info is appreciated. Thanks!

for the 2004 presidential vote: 2004 Vote: Re-Unelect George Bush

That's interesting the blackhawk came out of Oregon. When I was rescued on The Temple (8000ft), the blackhawk came out of the Yakima training area. The blackhawks in Yakima must be in Iraq?

I do not know anybody who has climbed Bears Breast from the Shovel Lake side. I only know of two parties in the past 2 years who have climbed it from Dutch Miller Gap. here's another angle of Bears Breast as you would approach for Shovel Lake. I can't remember where I got this photo from, but it is not mine. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=6193

I like the idea, however I do not think the idea will sell. Call me the devil's advocate. I think strapping on mini crampons onto running shoes is the best idea. I don't think people will go out and buy spiked running shoes an then buy soles to go on the bottom of them. It allows for low versatility--unless you are a track runner. Not all shoes fit the same type of person. High versatility = regular running shoes with buying mini crampons points similar to spiked running shoes and strapped to the feet in the same manner you do. It might work well for you, but I do not see it working for the market.

Great report. Glad Doug likes your whiskey. CJ direct may not be attractive, but I highly recommend it if you want success. I have heard many parties failing by use of Gunsight notch--but not many parties failing by use of CJ direct to col. My partner and I did Johannesburg (East ridge) and Cascade in one day from the car in mid June 2000. We used bikes.

Here's a minor peak that I think should be in the book, but it is not. Peak 4686. It has 1,326 feet of prominence. http://test.topozone.com/map.asp?z=10&n=5258868&e=470578&s=50&size=l&datum=nad83&layer=DRG25 It is an impressive looking little mass of spires looking SW from Mount Lincoln. It has been suggested the name be Olympicket Fence. When I was there in 2001, there was a register on top with about 12 parties dating back I think to mid 1984. Route description: Ascend east side of Lebar Creek from road. At 2800 feet ascend forest heading NE towards summit gullies. At 3900 feet ascend second or third gully from the summit that trends SW. Traverse to summit block which requires 25 feet of class 3 and 4. Stefan Feller