Lambone

right-on, hopefully this season will allow for some new additions to that list! 230 is alot, it's kinda odd that most (myself included) only know of a handfull of ice climbs in Washington, and most of those are inconsistant at best. You're guide will be awsome, hopefully it'll generate interest for the masses to explore other areas in washington, rather than beat on the same tired ice that we read about on cc.com all winter... cheers fellas [ 10-14-2002, 07:33 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Interesting Jason, sory about being rude...it just seemed as if we were able to print off a rough draft from CC.com over a year ago...just wondering why the book was taking so long...nice effort! [ 10-14-2002, 11:27 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Next september [ 10-14-2002, 07:32 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Anybody else want to spray about what they did over this awsome weekend? Me wife and I camped up at wing lake and scrambled up the south side if Black Mt. Twas quite nice, the North Cascades were on fire! Hoping to do NE ridge of Triumph next weekend if it stays nice... Any other cool adventures?

quote: Originally posted by RobBob: I'm not an ice climber, unfortunately...made up my mind that 42 is too old to start that one. what! no-way! thats not an excuse...

Damit gimpy, I thought I warned you... I just found the secret shitter in my building at UW! Took me a year and a half, but now I have my own private office!

I think there may have been a reason that his show had sort-of an embrace foriegn cultures theme to it...It's not like those trips were recent or anything, kind of old news... His Mixed climbing show kicks ass too, worth checking out at cascade crags, plus more stuff will probably be raffeled. [ 10-11-2002, 12:28 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

nevermind gimpy, keep the skull picture! [ 10-11-2002, 01:37 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I'll give you 25$ for your haulbag...

surfin' talus, woohoo!

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: quote:Originally posted by COL. Von Spanker: [QB]I didn't win an F'in thang. I liked when he hooked the two tools together and then to the harnes for a rest. Very creative. QB] I won 2 t-shirts. Gee. But resting on his tools? Cheating! (Did you notice the velcro on his chest and shoulders?) I gotta rant here for a second, I think people that want to critisize the funky/crazy mixed climbing we saw last night just kinda missed Seans point. It seemed that he loved it because there were no rules, it's all about experimenting and coming up with cool creative new shit. Aid climbing or not, he doesn't seem to give a shit cause its all fun! I wish I was stronger... or I could be like popeye, only with HC instead of spinach!

quote: Originally posted by dkemp: I resent that. I know the woman that got the ice tool - I havent talked to her in a couple years and I cant imagine she's into ice climbing now but she's definitely not a dope - she's a very cool person. My friends won some stuff. I wont argue their dope status but you can bet they will use their new stuff. You got what they call Sour Grapes Syndrome. No big deal, and I know my forehead vein is bulging, so I'll chill now. Good show - way to go, FF. It's cool she won it, but she didn't seem exited at all, shit people who won chalk seemed more stoaked. Fuck I woulda been jumpin around screaming and breakin shit with my new tool! But I really wanted those Sportiva S's Thanks for the beer FF, way cool

Hey gimpy, find a new pic man, this one is mine!

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I climbed canary my first time with hexes and stoppers. I took a screamer too Not sure the pro was tricky for me I'm not saying you need cams for canary, although they help... I just thought that the runnuots were a bit long and you had to look around for good placements, above the "airy step" at least. It's not hard climbing, I just wouldn't recomend it as a first lead...

that sounds interesting, who is giving the talk? oh, nevermind... [ 10-10-2002, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

yeah, it was pretty melow, but I only get on a bike a few times a year so it was just good fun!

I'll give you $25, and give them to my bro who allways wants to borrow mine... cool slide show eh! Bet you want some of those fancy new heel hookin 'poons eh! [ 10-10-2002, 11:27 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I rode the Devil's Gulch trail last weekend. It's some of the best stretch of downhill I've ever been on! [ 10-10-2002, 06:26 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

very snowy and cold in the Winds in November, access may be an issue. We once got schooled by the weather big time in early October...

wahtever dood! I been the skull since jon added these silly pictures, get lost! [ 10-10-2002, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

cool show, thanks FF aand Sean! makes me jones for travel and big alpine routes! that leashless tomfoolery looks crazy! [ 10-10-2002, 11:15 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by b-rock: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: Slow down and be more carefull of what you grab on to and step on... glad your ok Yeah, that's the obvious, I was doing that. The rock wasn't loose when I knocked it, one of those larger blobs of rock embedded in tuft. Clearly the biggest lesson learned here is to be more careful and thoughtful, I am the one who pulled it (not the thousands before me). Still, seemingly solid holds can pop, and I'm interested in how to minimize the consequences... I see b-rock, but I ask, what if you had been roped up? Would you have fallen less far? Or would your fall possibly cause your partner to fall as well? Yes, in some circumstances it may be wise to short-rope and use quick hip belays. The choice to do so depends on your comfort range, route conditions, lack of light, etc...Also, if rappeling is an option, maybe this is the smart choice. But I'd argue that on most 3-4th class terrian maybe more dangerous because pulling the rope on such terrain may result in stuck ropes, or rockfall(as you mentioned before). And short roping on uncomfortable terrain only endangers both members of the party, unless protection and belays are used. So I'll reiterate, on 3-4th class terrain I typicaly remain un-roped, slow down and chose my route carefully. Stay close together, or way untill people below are out of harms way before going down. Expect that you will accidently dislodge loose rocks, and anticipate the consequences. I would say that ussualy this is the faster option, and is not nescesarily more dangerous, however...like allways it just depends on several factors. Your topic is a good one, and the question is important, and possibly may adress one of the biggest "grey areas" in climbing. Descending this type of terrain, especially at the end of a long day in the mountians may be the most dangerouse aspect of climbing, and therefore scares me the most. Just ask my partner from the East Ridge on Forrbiden. On the descent of the NE Face I was quite nervous and uncomfortable, perhaps as scared as I have ever been high in the mountains. In that case we chose to use the rope, and put in what protection we could find. I felt much better with the rope on, my nerves were calm and I had better focus. Yet in the back of my mind, with 50-100ft pendulum runouts, I knew I was not really any safer, it just meant my body wouldn't end up 1000ft down on the glacier. Again, I am really glad your fall didn't result in injury. [ 10-10-2002, 05:39 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

is it at 7 or 8, whats the dealeo?

Hey DFA, this thread is about Trad climbing, either get out or shut the hell up cheers