Lambone

IEHHH, ouch! Flick your wrist abit more and you'll bash your nuckles less. Gloves may stop the bleeding, but it still hurts just as much. And avoid wrapping the rope all around your leg like that!

Hey RobBob, Looks like you registered in September, so where the hell do you get off complaining? Shut your trap newbie. Or are you just an old school lurker who has comeout of the closet?

I think it's a nice idea Erden, but I don't think renaming the route would be the best thing to try and acomplish. Goran fell on Air Guitar, and I think it should remain. Plus although I never met him, he sounds like the type of guy who would want us all to climb it and -on in his memory. Then again, I don't really climb out there, so my opinion may not be worth much.

quote: Originally posted by iain: um, yeah... no it's the Grunge Couloir from "The Chuting Gallery" by A. McLean (guidebook to the steeps in the Wasatch) yah brah, excelent cameral tilt, totaly gnarly eh...

Caveman, Yeah, it does kinda suck if the power-point of the anchor is down low. If that is the case I ussualy just go off my waist. But most of the time I just try to rig high and go straight of the anchor, it's safer anyway if the power-point is above your waist (for several reasons that I'm sure you are aware of). Let me give an example: I led up the 1st pitch of the Gendarm on Stuart with a doubled 37m 7.8mm chord. The rope barely reached enough for me to belly flop onto the ledge. I riged an anchor with a crodelet extended down below the ledge, and could barely get enough slack to clove hitch in. Then I put the Reverso on the chordelette biner and belayed my bro up with two strands. He is a big heavy guy and had to hang a couple of times. The thin (7.8mm) ropes did not slip under his body weight, but I was holding them very tight just in case, with an extra knot back-up. Pulling in the slack was a pain in the ass. I don't know what this example illustrates actually, but I think you can get a few important details out of it.

I bought a pair for wall climbing and Cascades alpine stuff. I am very happy with them for both. I fit them small for free climbing, so they are a bit tight for long approaches. The stiffness is nice in aiders, good for climbing, but they feel like boots on the trail, only way lighter. They arn't waterproof. I blew a hole in the toe rand aiding in them, but Ramuta said he could fix it. I don't own newmatics, but they work fine with my strap-ons. I'd say get 'em, good stiff shoe. But if you want a waterproof boot go with the La Sportiva S's.

'tis quite steep lookin. Is that you Ian?

Actually, friends from Tahoe have told me he's a total prick. But I like the way he skis.

Benman, nice job1 Were the sun cups (pentientes (sp?)) still pretty large up above the icy section past 11,000ft ish? They were about three ft deep at the end of August. Just wondering if they had filled in much.

quote: Originally posted by slothrop: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: IEHHH, ouch! Flick your wrist abit more and you'll bash your nuckles less. Gloves may stop the bleeding, but it still hurts just as much. And avoid wrapping the rope all around your leg like that! That's the thing -- I didn't feel any pain while I was bashing away. Until I stopped to place a screw and noticed a bloody mess, I didn't even notice! Does having curved-shafted tools make a difference in reducing knuckle-bashing? I guess it's probably easier to flick your wrist with a curved tool... I was just trying to keep my legs warm with all that rope I was stacking up while belaying. Sloth, I don't think curved tools make much of a difference when it comes to bashing the nuckles, if anything they make it easier to bruise your pinki fingers. I think this is because the curve puts the grip further under the tip of the pick. When I upgraded from my old Black Profets to Cobras I started to bash mine alot more, i kinda had to re-learn how to swing 'em. With the Cobras I have to concentrate on flicking my wrist and pulling my pinki nuckels up and back from the ice, otherwise bruising and pain sets in quickly. I think it's got alot more to do with technique then tool. When I get tierd and sloppy I bangem up good. nice rope management, figure out how to turn a rope into a sleeping bag and you'd be a rich climber! [ 10-07-2002, 09:29 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Sphinx should be getting close eh? I once climbed Twin on my birthday Oct 28th, twas nice! Drought = easy Hylite acces at least! You know Tony or Jason perhaps? Maybe see ya this winter. peace.

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: was it lambone? haha, no we were out to the car by a modest 5pm thanks... but we thoughtabout sleeping with the goats:rockband:

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: shit he's still hardcore! still sportin the 'hawk old Greg Stump flicks are the best ski films ever made, Blizzard, Liscense to Thrill, Groove...etc. excluding the Teton G.R. films.

shit he's still hardcore! still sportin the 'hawk

nice photo's scott, but didn't anybody teach you to camp at least 200ft back from the lake??? Shit next thing you know we will see you smoking pot in a federaly regulated wilderness area nice climb. you should check out the sierras, it's all like prusik peak down there.

warren miller man you don't know what steep is... shit the old schoolers (Plake, Schmidt, Egan's, Day) woulda backflipped off that thing

"I drink alone, yeah with nobody else..." [ 10-07-2002, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

If you are going to solicit your buisness here, then you must first buy us all a beer at pub club...

a real skier would have launched the cornice

Hey, I like the Reverso. It might be a bit heavier than the gi-gi, but it works better for belaying the leader (like an ATC). The only thing I have found that is important to keep in mind, the Reverso seems to have less friction (then an ATC) when rappeling with skinny ropes. I use two biners to get a little more friction. I haven't used the other one.

Whats up Ryan, good to see you representin the Bozeman crowd! Winter (i.e. grey and wet) has arived. It was cold last week, and pecipitation moved in over the weekend, expect new snow, possibly unstable on top of ice. Good luck.

howabout da toof???

I think Dwayner starts some good threads, or at least he used too, I have been guilty at laughing at many of them. I'll still give him shit about his attitude towards other climbers, but so what, he dishes out plenty of his own BS. I mean come on...he posts a thread about when this site went down the shitter, and blames it on other people...but then can't take it when someone claims that he is just as much part of the (so-called) problem? Grow up man. As far as the betta thing... I think theres lots of good stuff on this site, thanks to contributers who actualy care, or at least just like to chestbeat(more power to 'em). Sure people could get by with Beckys books, or Nelsons Classic guide, or no guide at all. But hey, why not make life easyier by learning from others experiences? Lets face it, most of us who post here are weekend warriors. We only have two days to get up stuff and we don't want to spend that precious time dorkin around with details or carrying extra gear.

after a wonderfull spray binge it is now time to logoff and get away from this computer for a weekend hiatus from CC.com Plans are for Mt. Biking on the eastside and cragging on Sun. enjoy the weekend yall, and spray on! [ 10-04-2002, 03:51 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Mr. Chips: Should this thread not have been started under 'SPRAY'? Do I smell a cat fight? no, we love eachother