Lambone

quote: Originally posted by bcollins: BTW......looking at doing the upper No. ridge via Goat next weekend. Anyone been on the Stuart recently??? Is it possible to traverse it now without an ice axe or crampons while wearing appoach shoes??? I'd almost rather take 2 long ice screws and belay across than take an axe, boots, and crampons. This is a one day trip from the Teanaway. Any suggestions? Barry ryland, From this information I gathered that he was talking about the stuart glacier to the upper north ridge. It is not very steep, and if the snow was soft you could probably run across in tennis shoes...but if it's icy and you slip without an axe...well lets just hope you have time to kiss your ass good bye before plumiting into the dark caverns below... to answer your question. the snow at the top of the cascadian can be skirted on (descenders) right via loose dirt/scree/boulders...etc. With an ice axe you can essentialy glissade down it, quicker and easier. It is pretty steep at the top, and very rocky at the bottom, so probably wise to have some kind of tool if you venture onto the snow. so, yes I was glad to have my axe, and would bring an axe if I were to do it again. However, I'd probably invest into one of those techy superlight ones they've got over at feathered friends, and aluminum strap-ons. I think rock shoes make the climbing on the ridge more enjoyable as well, I remember lots of friction moves. [ 08-08-2002, 03:17 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

bcollins, I think alot of it depends on the temps. when we did it the snow on the glacier had frozen over night and it would have been scary without crampons. I wouldn't leave the ice axe behind unless you are comfortable traversing above large crevases with no means of self arrest. A super light axe would be best, no crampons if its looking warm. Have fun!

Thats cool, I just read her post and though "what the hell " Sometimes people need to remember that there is more than one way to do things, and we can all learn from eachother. Have fun.

Thinker, I think your plan is fine. I use the same system while setting routes in the gym. I tie a bucket of holds onto the bottom of the rope so the weight will pull the slack through the gri-gri for me. It works pretty well, except that you end up using more energy pulling up the weight with every move. I usually only use this onclimbs under my limit. The only main disadvantage I see is that you cannot back yourself up. You are putting all your trust into that gri-gri. If something should happen that would prevent it from camming, you'll hit the deck. This requires that you pay close attention to it and make sure that the lever isn't getting caught by anything on your harness. I have taken many falls with this system, and it has allways worked fine. In my opinion, that krazy1 person has a pretty lame attitude. If you don't understand what someone is doing, either shut the hell up and walk away or shut the hell up listen and learn something, but don't go spraying about it on the inernet in such a non-sensical manner. Good day, have fun!

that's cool, I think I have the worst spelling on this site...even after several edits...

I use three aiders, and leave the third free one on the last piece before the free climbing section. Then I flip my daisies over my shoulders, or clip them on to the back of the rack and pray they don't get caught on something.

I think if there was a better way, people wouldn't spend alot of $ on thos fancy soloist devices... I use a gri-gri. When at the top of a pitch, the weight of the rope tends to pull the slack through the device for you. This is something to watch out for (before you realize it you might have 20ft of slack), but most of the time its a benefit. I allways use a back up figure 8 just in case. It's not smart to put all your chips onto a gri-gri. Have fun Dru, solo aiding rules!

Sounds cool tom, I'd be more interested except I generaly dislike the "trail" aspect of a climb, and look to get it over with as quick as possible. First one to make a hello joke cane kiss my

Blood works well...

So whats up with the report post whistle blower? Who does it report to? Jon?

Dwayner, Didn't you just do Dreamer recently? Doesn't it have a bunch of bolts on it? Is that route better than a typical long sport route because it has cracks as well? Fess up dude, you went sport climbing...what gives man, when will you start practicing what you preach?

quote: Originally posted by rr666: I can't agree with you more Erik. For 99% of us climbing is not about making money by getting our pics in the mags by purplepointing some climb. Tomorrow, they will have a new name for another style. For us it does not matter. For us, it is about going out having some fun, challenging ourselves, being in the outdoors. All that good stuff that has to do with ourselves, not with what someone says in a mag. no way dude! climbing is all about making money and being famous...looking tough in the photos, impressing people, getting chicks and sponsors. It's all about what others think of you and your acomplishments. You and erik need to get your priorities straight.

I don't kow dude...it's just something to talk about...and I'm bored, gimme a break. It doesn't bother me that they did it...it bothers me that they claim to have freed it when all the protection was placed on aid. [ 08-05-2002, 12:52 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Send me a PM, I wanna hear the joke. SK, no offense...but I assume you learned to walk when you about 2 years old, not sure why you'd want to be taught again?

Sorry can't help... Just thought it was interesting, cause last time I was at the hospital a gril came in with a broken rib from a sailing accident. She had to weight for over an hour, and looked to be in alot of pain. Hope you feel better soon.

Regardless of what its called, pre-placeing draws on a sport route doesn't seem like such a big deal to me, the bolts are there allready, whats the big deal? Pr-placing gear on a trad route is totaly different. It may be the only safe way to do it, but it seems more like sport climbing than trad climbing to me. It kinda bothers me (just a little) that all these burly climbers are claiming first free ascents on El Cap when they aided up and place the gear first...thats BS.

nice, did you downclimb, or rap? most of my soloing is with a rope and a very large rack, but I love it...

nice, sounds like a plan I can commit to...

screw smith rock, lets bolt some shit up in Leavenworth!

So can you bring dirt bikes up in that area as well?

since when did I belittle the mountaineers, posuers, gapers or anyone who doesn't climb 5.10 off the couch? Public trouble? It seemed pretty damn private when we were up there... oh well, at least Pappy is getting some good "beta"

he started it... we did the full route from ingalls. getting to the toe is kind of a pain in ass, but it's not so bad. the cascadian is smooth (if the correct gullyis taken) and the hike over longs pass isn't too bad. it's probably alot more elevation gain and loss if you go over ingals and goat pass, but after doing the long ridge I was glad to have a non-technical walk off. I guess if you have a Ford Explorer or a Jeep, yu should be able to get it up to Ingalls Lake no problem.

yeah sucker...and you just better hope that you never need anyones help in the mountains just might be a bit much for your ego

quote: Originally posted by Highlander: no chopper needed, I do not call in rescues when the shit hits the fan. I just walk down. well then have fun dick just wondering what kinda vehicle can get to ingals lake... oh, and when we descended the cascadian in a storm we ended up going down the wrong gully. you see it was dark, we had been on the move for 18 hours and had never been there before, ended up curling up in my pack while getting pissed on till dawn. I'd recomend getting the beta on the Cascadian if you've never been there...but don't ask me. [ 08-05-2002, 07:53 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]