Lambone

The Emmons is in good shape also, although you have to travers very far left to get around the upper bergschrund.

Yo Erik, I saw that angle on Jap gardens last week... Someone is either very ignorant, or just has no respect for other climbers. They had also been nailing on the line just to the right of JG, you can see the scars from cleaning... On that same day i saw an RMI guide nailing pins into the Boulder underneath City Park. When I asked him why he was carrying a hammer and knifeblades up City park i just got a cold shoulder. They procedded to Aid the 2nd (10b pitch) and Slow Childern... I didn't hear any further hammering though. I've been psyching myself up to try and do Snow White clean for a couple of years now. (Then deck potential kept me a way) Now it's just another ruined aid climb. I hope the one or two people that can free it really enjoy themselves... Bad scene at the lower wall

Yeah, if you ever need do do some harder stuff in approach shoes or Tevas, just switch feet and and you'll have some nice edging shoes.

Yeah, let us know Pete. The TCU's and Zero's are two totaly different cams, can't really compare the two. I'd like to compare the Zeros with Aliens. If WC makes an offset Zero I'll break out my wallet.

smokea bowl and carry a big wall rack

Made my first attempt on Rainier, via the Emmons (Dog) Route. I made it to 12,500 and then descended with a sick member of our party. He was mostly suffering from altitude and dehydration, dissyness, etc..., he felt better as we wnet down. I kept my chin up, just glad to be there in good weather. The rest of our 7 person team went on to the summit, I went for cheeseburgers. They should be still up at Emmons Flats tonight. Hope they are warm Rainier is way cool!

They can consider my $ thanks enough. When I pay that much for a peice of equipment I shouldn't have to worry about complete zipper failures. Had it happened that weekend things would have gotten serious very quickly. I'm just a little tiered of companies that go big and compromise the quality of their gear. I'm just wondering if Bibler's quality has decreased since they were acuired by Black Diamond. I also wonder why they put such a small gauge zipper on their tents. The tent door is pretty crucial whouldn't you agree? I'd carry the weight of a thicker zipper if it'd stay closed for me... And by the way, I said the zipper was a "piece of shit." If yo took a look at it you'd agree. [ 08-19-2002, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I've only used my new Bibler twice and the zipper is totaly F%#@&ed!!! Grrrr... I have allways loved these tents, and had good experiences with them in the past, but the new zippers they are using must be some cheap peice of shit made in some indoneasian backalley sweatshop. Luckily it was mostly sunny this weekend, just a bit windy. REI here I come...

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Lambone (aka gymrat), I want to know how you can climb any of that without tape showing which holds are in. Actually, thanks for the beta; that will probably go on my list. Greg W Luckily a party the day before had left chalk on the holds...

quote: Originally posted by sketchfest: Sounds like a sweet little climb with fairly short approach. Unfortunately the climb seems to go shorter than the approach, but its worth the hike. we should have done another route as well, but lounged in the sun instead.

Ask my partner if he was scared...? And he is a solid 5.9 crack climber. It's all realative. Why grovel up an off width in a corner when you an lie back righ up it with good feet? But your right, the cruxes aren't sustained. Not like a 5.9 like Godzilla anyway. It's kinda slabby up there.

sketch, It's solid, if not a bit scary 5.9. The cruxes are mostly lie backing wide flakes and cracks in the corner. Good foot holds make it reasonabe. Park at Blue Lake and use the same approach trail as Becky route on Lib Bell, go right at the fork in the climbers trail towards the early winter spires. Head all the way up to the base of SEWS and traverse back along NEWS's base on a established trail. The trail that goes straight up to NEWS is heavily eroded. The rock is mostly really good, go do it! [ 08-12-2002, 01:51 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Biner + Duct tape as a spoon after I dropped mine on the first day on El Cap.

Very cool climb. Our original plan was the big Direct East Butress of SEWS (still on the list), but it turned out that leaving Seattle at 5 didn't quite get us there as early as we hoped. Decided to keep training and go back for it. The Norewset Corner route was our back up plan, and a fun worthy climb. It turned out to be shorter than we has expected, it went in four pitches and four leisurly hours. Here is some usefull beta for anyone whose interested: With a 60 meter rope you can link pitch 1 and 2, up to the ledge under pitch 3 (the cool flake pitch). You can also link pitch 4 and 5, its a full rope stretcher, nice pitch! We had a fat rack, doubles on pretty much everything...too much. Go with one of each on small cams up to #2 camolot. Then double up on #2,3,3.5...one #4 should suffice, but you could do without it. Big hexes would be usefull, and the whole thing eats up nuts. There are four rap stations in the gully, no problem with one rope. We saw four other cc.comers up there and spent a couple hours hangin out on the summit. What a great day! Have fun!

Zero-cams are out, I saw them in the Yosemite shop...but I'm not sure where to get them around here. They look like the shiznit.

I am assuming Mr. Layton doesn't have a job or class this summer... I'm jealous, way too go man

word is the #4 camolot is still there. Josh, I think the Gendarm is faster then the rappel variation. Especialy if you are comfortable on 5.9 granite. try it next tiime. [ 08-09-2002, 06:08 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Ti-blocks work best on the 7.8mm, but 5mm cord works too.

quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: I have two days coming up in Leavenworth, and after looking through the guidebook I am feeling a bit overwhelmed - there is so much to climb there! So, in hopes of spending more time climbing and less time searching and gaping, I am looking for some suggestions for easy to moderate routes to climb while I'm there. I would prefer to try some granite cracks (I haven't even touched granite yet!), possibly even a short multi pitch... Thanks! Orbit is cool too...and lacks the exposed crux that outerspace has (which isn't that hard.) We were up on the SCW this weekend and it was cold... The Careno crag and Castle are my other vavorite areas up there, with many good pitches and moderate trad multi pitch routes. Have fun!

oops [ 08-08-2002, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by payaso: So did I buy something I have no business owning? I intend on this being a rope that I carry for general mountaineering (glacier travel, 3-4 people on rope, occasional need to rappel, belay, and possibly occasional need to ascend / traverse a rock pitch. I do not intend on going out and buying another one to have a "set" of twin ropes. The salesman really recommended this for what I wanted. I imagine that if I intended to be doing more vertical pursuits that I would indeed need two of these ropes. For what I want though, perhaps this will work fine, or am I crazy to even think about using a single twin rope for this purpose? I bought the same rope about 5 or 6 years ago. Since then I've used many times on glaciers and mellow alpine climbs (4-easy5th class ridges etc.) Personaly I like it alot, mostly because it is so light. Ti-blocks work on thge rope if you use a thick locking biner. I use it for teams of 2 or three, on glaciers that don't have serious crevase danger. If I have four, or if the potential for a crevase fall is much higher, I usually bring my 9mil. On rock I will double the rope as suggested by Dru. That way if you do fall, both strands are less likely to cut over an edge or something. I think its a great rope for when you arn't too worried about falling, but still want a rope for rappeling or maintaining sanity. I think you made a good buy, I've definately got my moneys worth. Have fun

damit cut it out

uhh, I don't get it...

I have the maxim chord that you can buy in a 25' spool. it works well.