Lambone

hmmm... yeah likewise, but water under the bridge, I'll buy you a beer when we meet up in Mugs'n Jugs this winter.

hmmm... yeah likewise, but water under the bridge, I'll buy you a beer when we meet up in Mugs'n Jugs this winter.

There is no difference Stefan. They are both the old Scarpa Inferno which I believe are now discontinued, or no longer distrbuted through Black Diamond in the US. Too stiff and heavy in my opinion.

U'm no offense Miss Allison, but what the hell are you talking about?

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: quote:Originally posted by RobBob: Dwayner & ScottP, Doesn't the irreverent, humorous tenor of cc.com fit the broad climbing community as a whole? I get tips and ideas, and I get a chuckle or two. I know what you guys are saying, (anonymity has its effect) but the board is set up the way it is, so I enjoy it for what it is! To a certain extent. However, I believe the brutal nature of some of the posts I have read on this site wouldn't have been so brutal if those involved were in a face-to-face situation. No shit... Scott P, effortlessly good at stating the obvious. Of course, I would never say that to you in person.

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: quote:Originally posted by RobBob: Dwayner & ScottP, Doesn't the irreverent, humorous tenor of cc.com fit the broad climbing community as a whole? I get tips and ideas, and I get a chuckle or two. I know what you guys are saying, (anonymity has its effect) but the board is set up the way it is, so I enjoy it for what it is! To a certain extent. However, I believe the brutal nature of some of the posts I have read on this site wouldn't have been so brutal if those involved were in a face-to-face situation. No shit... Scott P, effortlessly good at stating the obvious. Of course, I would never say that to you in person.

You know big D, when I reread your initial post it reminds me of an episode of "Sex in the City," when the lead chick proclaims the theme of the show after a moment of deep introspection.

You know big D, when I reread your initial post it reminds me of an episode of "Sex in the City," when the lead chick proclaims the theme of the show after a moment of deep introspection.

My nomitation would be way back when Dwayner and pope began to propegate the anti-bolt/sport climber wars. Runner up would be when cavenman publicly threatened to kill me cause he thought I was making fun of Fred Beckey (I wasn't). But who really cares when or why CC.com so called "jumped the shark?" why ask? Are you woried that the respected climbing "pioneers" in the NW won't respect you when they find out you post on CC.com? By claiming that you remember when CC.com jumped the shark, you are basically saying that you were around during the "golden age" when CC.com was a nice happy climbing community that shared information and encouragement. A time when it was considered respectable to be a registered member and contributer to the boards. Once again placing yourself in the "old school" category that is inherently superior to the "new school." Once again living in the past and promoting a dicotomy between the intrest groups of our small community. Still, I will contribute my own nomination, because hey, spraying is allways more fun than work, regardless of what the "pioneers" think. cheers

My nomitation would be way back when Dwayner and pope began to propegate the anti-bolt/sport climber wars. Runner up would be when cavenman publicly threatened to kill me cause he thought I was making fun of Fred Beckey (I wasn't). But who really cares when or why CC.com so called "jumped the shark?" why ask? Are you woried that the respected climbing "pioneers" in the NW won't respect you when they find out you post on CC.com? By claiming that you remember when CC.com jumped the shark, you are basically saying that you were around during the "golden age" when CC.com was a nice happy climbing community that shared information and encouragement. A time when it was considered respectable to be a registered member and contributer to the boards. Once again placing yourself in the "old school" category that is inherently superior to the "new school." Once again living in the past and promoting a dicotomy between the intrest groups of our small community. Still, I will contribute my own nomination, because hey, spraying is allways more fun than work, regardless of what the "pioneers" think. cheers

best place to find used cheap wall gear is on the Camp4 bulliten board. Post a note to Supertopos.com

quote: Originally posted by chucK: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: My point is, if you are belaying and you don't feel comfortable whith what the leader is doing, it's your responsibility to yell up to them and get their shit together. I agree it's usually good to inform your leader of some danger of which he/she may be unaware, but haven't you been in that spot where you think "Oh crap" but there's not much the leader CAN do? Like leader is crapping himself at the crux and suddenly his last piece slides on down the rope? What do you do then? It seems like letting them know the piece pulled may be important, but at the same time he probably won't be able to focus any better than he is, and letting him know that he's now in serious-fall zone might really paralyze him. Any times like this when you've felt it's better to just be quiet and maybe just wait to tell your partner about the danger a bit later? Yes, this is true. It'[s a fine line between helping and making it worse. Let me give you an example of one of my bigger fuck ups. I convinced my bro to lead up the second pitch of a popular 5.8 classic in Bozeman. He accepted, took the rack and headed out on the sharp end. He was new to leading, but a go-getter and I thought he'd cuise it. We'll he did cruise, climbing really fast and neglecting to put a piece in above the belay. Then he started to sketch. I thought to tell him to get something in quik, but decided to let him work through it on his own. He fell, flipped backwards and upside down, and took a 30ft factor 2 fall onto my harness. He almost went head first into a ledge with no helmet, and his life was spared by a matter of inches, luck and the will of a higher being. Several thngs were done wrong here. He should have had a helmet, he should have put in a piece just off the belay, or I should have clipped the line into the anchor, and he should have put a piece in before the crux. I blame myself for these mistakes, and attribute them to my passiveness as a belayer. He was less experienced, and I should have spoken up and instructed him to do certain things, especialy since I put him on point in the first place. But I agree, sometimes it's best to shut up and let them climb.

quote: Originally posted by iceguy: In the middle of the night, while on a basic climb, after coming down with severe nausea, a group of Mounties left me at 12,500 on Rainier without a sleeping bag. They threw me a picket, and a bivy sack and said they'd see me in 6 or 7 hours! Bastards! (Also insisted that I remove my plastic boots before getting into the bivy sack because they didn't want said sack to get dirty! Subsequently, my feet about froze off). Spent a loooong night freezing my ass off and feeling like shit; seriously thought I might freeze to death; have never shivered so hard in my life. Although the experience clued me in to what type of personal gear to bring on future climbs, I though that the group’s actions were inexcusable. I nominate the three leaders of this trip as my worst climbing partners ever. And if that wasn’t enough—after the climb, we all stopped at a restaurant for a bite to eat. The service at the restaurant was terrible, and it took forever for our food to come. To expedite our departure, instead of having the waiter split up everyone’s bill, I just paid with my credit card ($130), thinking that everyone would pay me individually. No such luck. The leaders of the climb assumed I was paying for their meals as a gesture of how much I appreciated their effort—never got shit from them—ended up footing the entire bill! That's totaly fucked up man, you shoulda kicked some ass. In fact, now I officialy hate the Mountaineers organization (not individual members).

quote: Originally posted by sk: I don't want anyone to take this the wrong way, cause I totaly love this woman... but the woman that taught me to climb became my worst climbing partner. She started not showing for climbing apointments and one morning I road my bike to her house at 6 am (because she wanted to climb before work) and not only did she not want to get up and climb, she wouldn't even let me in the house to pee. she told me later that she forgot, and just didn't wake up climbin appointments??? whats up with that

Slabs...ugh...you can take all that prior rambling and toss it out the window when it comes to slabs. The friction of your skin grinding across the rock is enough to slow you down so much that you barley need a belay device BTW- is that Les Claypool in your sign photo?

Allison, call me crazy...but it doesn't seem that anyone here gives a shit about your "rigging" experience, or understands what the hell it has to do with rock climbing or rock climbing equipment, or why you keep bringing it up. I don't see what kind of case anyone is making against you, or why you "feel inclined to defend yourself in it"...except me calling you a paranoid delusional psycho... If you want to start a "rigging" web site, lets do it. You, me, and AlpineK. You've got the theater experience, K's the tree specialist, and I paint 600-1500ft radiotowers for extra cash. I think the three of us would make a good team, maybe jon and tim can help us out [ 10-04-2002, 12:47 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

man shut up, your feeble attempts at trolling are an insult to our integrety.

werd You say "give em slack." Ussualy this is only needed on steep routes to mitigate a pendulum into the wall. I only give extra slack if they will only end up dangeling in space. But "the hop" does reduece the forces on the piece by alot. I wish I had statistics that showed how much. That would be a cool test. If you were belaying me you probably wouldn't have to worry about it, I am too scared to fall. I either down climb or aid the rest Unfortunately that has limited my comfort level to about hard 5.10 since I was 16. It's hard to break into the bigger numbers if your afraid to whip on gear. [ 10-04-2002, 12:25 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

That ice troll vidieo is pretty funny. I wonder why they chose to climb up what looks like a 30 degree slope? I especialy like the hamering on of the crampon bails, i'll havta remember that technique

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Not the dynamic belay all over again. Maybe its good for sport climbing, but for any rock less than vertical, or with less than bomber cams or nuts for pro, I sure hope you don't belay me that way. yeah it's a tierd debate... But I'll still argue with you. When your gear is "less than bomber" is when it is most critical to have a dynamic belay. Otherwise you put more force on the piece and increase the chances of pulling it. You know howdynamic ropes work right? Well it's pretty much the same thing ecept the belayer is included as part of the dynamic the system. This is one reason many solo aid climbers on hard routes will use their haulbag as a counterweight to be loaded before the anchor, or a munter hitch, or screamer...etc. Same reason why it is sometimes beter to use a hip belay in the mountains if the anchor is questionable. Same reason why ice climbvers use skinny ropes. All in the name of bringin the forces down. The only time I will belay more staticly for the leader is if they run the risk of hitting something, or if alot of the rope is out. [ 10-04-2002, 12:11 AM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Off White: I'm also very fond of an anchor for the belayer, even at the base of sport routes, perhaps because I often outweigh my belayer, but also because having a belayer tied in shortens the leader's fall. This is the one thing I have read so far that I disagree with. Personaly I think its better not to be anchored in if you are standing safely on the ground. (i.e. not on a ledge or under a roof or something weird) This alows you to give a proper dynamic belay should the leader fall. Yes they may fall farther, but the impact forces will be lower, reducing the chance of a failure in the system such as a broken biner or blown piece. I chalange those who think I'm full of shit to go into the climbing gym and try it both ways. First, anchor yourself in and brace yourself when the climber falls. Then go with out the anchor and jump up when the climber weights the rope. Try it from both ends of the chord, when you are the climber you will notice a huge difference. Pick a steep route. Of course as with all aspects of climbing there is always a great amount of variablity depending on the circumstance. Like climbers + belayers weight, hieght of the climber (# of pieces in), type of rope...etc., etc. For most circumstances a dynamic belay is the way to go once the climber is up past the 2nd piece. This is just my opinion. I also agree with JayB that it is crucial to stand close to the wall, even when Ice climbing. Nothing makes me more nervouse then to see a belayer standing 15ft out from the wall while the climber has deck potential. I just have one other point to make, bear with the rambling. Of all the things I have learned through my experiences, one thing has realy stuck with me. Be an active belayer. By that I meen, if you see something that looks weird while your partner is climbing, don't just sit there and hope for the best. You all know what I meen..you've all seen that cam walk, or their leg wrapped around the rope, or that long runout with deck potential... I cant count several times where I said to myself, damn I should have said something then...I should have told him to put a piece in...or whatever. My point is, if you are belaying and you don't feel comfortable whith what the leader is doing, it's your responsibility to yell up to them and get their shit together. That is what a partnership and teamwork is all about. The climber may be totaly oblivious to what you can see from below, never make assumptions, and never take a passive stance when you feel uncomfortable about the situation. That is what a few close calls have taught me. I'm sure you get my point. I'll shut up now. Thanks

I agree, what the hell are the three of these tweekers talking about and why???

Pro Mountain Sports has the fission. Good price...too bad I need boots...

oh, hehe thats a lake, not a crater...oh well

There was another party hiking into climb in the afternoon when we were on our way out that day. They were from Bellingham. But I sorta remember vege having green paint there is a 22cm express screw above the bugrschrund on The President if you are deticated to booty gear and up that way. I wish I had taken the old crappy booty screw up there instead of the nice one, oh well...still glad I rapped off. my partner wouldn't let me chop a bollard... [ 10-03-2002, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]