Lambone

quote: Originally posted by dberdinka: So just right of photo, you can see what I believe is the Girth Pillar (?). Wasn't there some talk about massive rock fall on the route earlier in the year? That is certainly some very clean looking, grey granite, but it doesn't look quite like a fresh rock scare. Any thoughts, info? On top of that, The north face of Buckner had at least 400' of dirt showing on Sept 15th. When are you guys saying in was in shape? Sure it's climbable, but I wouldn't be calling it in shape. The following was posted on 9/14/2001 Confused in B'ham..... [This message has been edited by dberdinka (edited 09-28-2001).] Ummmmm.... huh? That big, huge, enormous, gigantic vertical rock scar isn't obvious to you... Have you had your eyes checked latley?!?!?! You ever play Wheres Waldo? I'd suggest it, it's good for routefinding skills.

When I was on the North Ridge, it sounded like there were bombs going off inside the Ice Cliff Glacier. I remember thinking, "Damn I'm glad I'm not down there!!"

Thats funny, I allways thought Koflachs made WI2 seem like WI5.

What, no BONGS!

My bro is the hardman from Montana. 'Nough said. Plus most of the lower ridge is 4th class. We allmost froze to death on the gendarme... I'm glad you guys made it safely!

Kevin, The lower portion is sweet, definately worth it. I'd do it again anyday, and its worth going back to get. You have about 3-5 pitches of 5.8-5.9 on really good rock/sweet cracks. Then you rack for simo-climbing and blast for the notch on mostly 4th class with some shot bouldery moves. Good gear, suprisingly not much loose rock... Getting down to the base from goat pass kinda sucks and is slow, but you won't need an axe or crampons this late. Aside from two short crossings we skirted the ice. TWO TUMBS UP! Go get it! The relief is huge!!! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-14-2001).]

Jim, I would highly recomend doing it in a day. We went from a camp at Ingalls creek just below Longs pass and the base of the Cascadian Coluoir. It worked well, 18 hrs camp to camp. Then we built a fire, hydrated and slept before going out to the car. We did the whole ridge in eight pitches total. Our packs seemed heavy with warm clothes in them, bivi gear and water would be no fun. The best bivi sites are at the notch. Above that you've got small ledges here and there. There is no water. Good luck!

Lots of people think ropes, harnesses, biners, nuts, and cams are pretty goofy too

What day did you climb? We did the full ridge on saturday. As to your question, we avoided the top of the gendarme by heading right just above the OW. There are big sandy ledges to belay from and you don't have to rappel to get to the notch. I guess we can't really claim that we climbed the gendarme though... oh well. Those were some cold pitches! Nice job!

Hey Packonmyback, Be carfull about telling these sharks where you work. I speak from experience... Will, don't forget-liability insurance ain't cheap.

Well you know how it is, people like to make fun of what they don't understand. So-what does the name meen in Tibetan? Better yet, how do yo pronounce it!? Just curious... Mine was a nickname that my partners from Montana used. Actually I have had quite a nice summer, thanks. Starting tommorow, I got six days off to go get busy up north. If you meen my sarcastic attitude, well sorry I upset you so much, don't take it personaly. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-05-2001).]

Dave Matthews is a sellout. "Don't wanna be a climber, reaching for the top. Don't wanna be anything where I don't know when to stop." Phish-"Waste"

Kypgayayaeee, Oh ummmm, sorry just wasting some more of your precious time and space... No offense intended [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-04-2001).]

Ohh TT, take it easy on Kyjelly.

Erik, With all due respect... I'd have to disagree with you on this one. I don't think Matt was wrong because he left a fixed line on an approach for the night. If he was still in the area than it was not really garbage, or abandoned equipment. People fix ropes to speed an early mornig ascent all the time, its common practice in all mountain ranges. The people who took it should have assumed that it belonged to someone camping in the Basin, or at least asked around. I think its lame that they took it, and I'd call it theft. Just my opinion... See ya, Matt [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-04-2001).]

Once while on the Tripple Direct, we emptied our whole pipe bomb on to unsuspecting climbers on The Nose. Ooops! Needs more glue next time! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 09-03-2001).]

Boston Basin is really nice. Allthough the scrambles are a bit technical.

Dwayner, Thanks old pal, but keep in mind that I didn't come up with this silly little term. Our beloved cc.com forefathers did, hence the Newbie board. I just enjoy mocking stupid lingo. Pimp the crimp and slap the slope bro. You got to come check out my new sick testpiece in the cave! www.verticalworld.com (Not a plug, you asked!) At the gym we only classify people as super burly or merely human It's easy to tell the diference. Newbies look at Climbing in a way which those who are experienced will never see it again...as NEW. Its exiteing, I dig their energy. When they smile that is And don't back into your car at the crag [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-30-2001).]

Hikerwa, It's not called lieing, it's sandbagging. And sandbagging is ok. Take everything on the interenet with a grain of salt and you won't be disappointed by reality!

When I stumbled into that silly icon, I expected this to be a simple positive SALUTE to all those newbies (beginners, whatever) out there. Not a newbie bash. Newbies rock, when they are friendly that is!

I just thought the lil' smiley faces were kinda funny!

Thinking about heading up there in a couple of weeks. Any words on conditions? I'd assume that it be good alpine ice about now. Anybody done it recently, or in September years past? Thanks.

You gotta love those newbies!

Damn, you got me there. Got some extra time on your hands huh vegie! You Alien...

Reno is not such a bad option if that works for ya.