Lambone

Whatever tough guy...

My buddie and I were skiing a chute at Bridger Bowl in Bozeman Mt. It was pretty steep, and cliffed out with a 15 footer at the bottom. I went for it and waited underneith for Jeff. Then, in horror, I watch him lose his edge and toumble down the cliff. He ends up in a pile at the bottom, jumps up and yells, "AHHH FuuuCCKK!" I say, "Dude chill out here and I'll go get the ski patrol." "Screw that man, I'm going to the bar!" "Are you sure" So he gets his ski back on with some pain and effort and beelines it for the bar. I cant even keep up with him. When I get there he is allready pounding a beer. I look at him and see that his bibs are all red and the spot is growing fast. "Oh shit, I guess I better go to first aid." Turns out he has a compound fracture of the hip. Just goes to show that hockey players from Chicago are tough Mo Fo's...

Matt- How about little si on wed.? Or index?

Cool, thanks Fred, that sounds great. Only my girl has her eyes on one of the "big well known ones". Don't ask me why, I fear the spray that will come from her reasoning. We want to do Ranier together in the next couple of years, and we are looking for some good training routes, cause there ain't no way were paying a guide. Any other suggestions would be great.

Howdy Folks! Did any of you get up Mazama Glacier this season? I am considering it as a posible route for me and my girl. We want a straightforward glacier with easy route finding and little objective danger. We are both pretty new to glacier travel, but we don't really want to go up the mule route... Any one recomend this route, or have info on its condition? Our dates are the first week of August, is that gettin' too late? Are there any other recomended August Routes? Did Sitcum last year. Thanks All, Matt

He's right about the aluminum, but they wont stand up to alot of abuse. I have been happy with my BD Sabertooths. Trango Extremes will take them.

Back to the topic... Its not only new climbers that are all about bolting everything. Look at Warren Harding, he bolted all kinds of chimneys up in the High Sierra. Not to mention the Valley... "Old Schoolers" are too self rightious about the purity of their generation. There are always rotten eggs in the batch, whether they taste bad is a matter of personal preference.

Hey will, I climbed Ingalls Peak on Friday. I'd definately recomend it a a intro Cascade Alpine Climb. Great rock, sweet view, and a nice setting, easily done in a day. you may want an axe if you go in approach shoes. Have fun!

Bummer Dude... Could have been worse I guess. Good call on the helmet! My two cents... be super carfull when camhooking above a ledge, ie. don't do it. And watch those little guys! Hey...two questions: Are those new daisys woth the $? I would assume that you'd say hell NO! And, did you fall on to the old bolt? I have been wondering if that thing would hold a fall. Good luck healing...

There is a new bouldering guide for Leavenworth written by Damion Potts. It costs ten bucks and is very detailed. Find it at Vertical World in Seattle, don't know where else. Or just head into Icicle Creek and scope it out for yourself... Keep Cool, have fun!

Camped at The Meadows, did Irene's Arete (STELLER!!!) the next day and hiked to moraine camp. Cloudy in the morning so we opted for the OS route. Of course it cleared up and we were bummed that we did do the Exum. But hey, its a freakin' sweet mountain regardless of what route you take. And Holly, there was only one other climber on top that day. A woman who soloed a variation to the left of the standard OS. She came up from her car and beat us to the top. Impressive to say the least, but I think it gets done car to car quite often. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-02-2001).]

Ok, so now pitch three has four pin scars, two fixed pin, and requires three second step moves and one top step move, two #5 HB's, and one green alien... Does anyone have the supertopo?!?!?!?!?! No really, thanks for the info y'all. Now I have a good plan in mind. Time to go do it and see what happens. Hey Erik, so you can rap Love'n Arms, sweet... Do you think I would get shot from the range if I rap down and try the 11b pitch on top rope!!!! Ha,Ha...

Are you sure that is a good idea... I'd be afraid someone would hit me...

Yeah, thanks erik... Hey, would it be better to rap The Dragon or the Crier? Does it matter? [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-02-2001).]

Hey Specialed, I thought that the last pitch erik was reffering to is the "easy fith class" scramble to the top. The pitch under that looks like it is a flring slot, up to a ladder, then some 5.9 w/ tricky pro. Is that the one you are talking about?

Hey Pete, That pendo sounds cool, where yould you join GD?

Nice! And I'd like to thank whoever is responsible for the cool new pictures on the home page. They inspire me to get out of the city and rally!!! Where ya goin' erik?

Hmmm... Since we accidentaly deposited our shit bags down the Nose should I NOT say that we did the Tripple Direct clean...heheheheee

Hmmm... Yeah, I see your point. Still, I consider any aid climb clean if you don't use your hammer, regardless of what is fixed. Shit, almost every route has a bolt, a rivet, or at least a fixed stopper or two. A long as you don't pound another one, you are doing it cean. If you were doing a wall, and you had to leave one of your stoppers or cams fixed cause it was totaly stuck, would you say that you didn't do the route clean?? [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-02-2001).]

Thanks Erik, That sounds good. Well forget about smoke out and rap the route. Going clean shouldn't be any worries. I don't care what anyone says about cheater sticks, I love 'um. Don't get me wrong, I love tricky aid, scary moves and top stepping , but if I can use the stick instead of pounding a pin or head I'm all about it. They save time and the rock. Hell aid climbing is cheating anyway. Hey, Yoss. Did you do the Green Dragon. We are considering that one as well. Maybe The Green one day, sleep at the base, and Town the next. Mabye both in a day?? But only if we can rap both routes. Thanks Guys. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-02-2001).]

Hey All, I plan to do the Crier in the next few days. Any recomendations on gear rack? We plan to do it clean, but should we bring any pins or heads just in case? The pitches seem short, will doubles on sizes suffice or are tripples recomended. Any key "trick" pieces. Cheater stick? Would it be cool to sleep on smokeout ledge, or does it suck? One other thing, what is the best descent? Can you rap the route? Any thoughts... Thanks

I saw Tom Frost in Camp 4 a couple of weeks ago. His hair is like silver, big smile...

Hey Matt, If I make Scout some booties with C4, can he be our ropegun up at washington pass?

Mark Twights "Extreme Alpinism" : Don't carry anything but a packet of Gu. If you die, good riddens...

It seems you missed the point Dru... I was refering to you as the dog!