Lambone

I've told this story before, but I love it so I'll tell it again... My bro and I were climbing the Tripple Direct on El Cap. I just finished a traversing pitch over to Camp 4 about midway up the route. The pitch traversed alot so I radioed down to my bro to belay the bags out slowly. Since he is such a tough guy, he figured that he could hold on to the 7mm cord with his gloved hands to lower them out. Well... our 150lb bag got the best of him. It flew across the rock and slammed into a big dihedral. I heard a loud POP and saw a white thing go flying away from the bag. At first I thought, what the fuck was that! Then I saw the first one fly out, then the second, and then the third, fourth, fifth, and so on... Poor parties on the Nose probably didn't even know what hit 'um. Till they smelled the chilly I had eaten three days earlier. Sorry guys, it wasn't my fault... really. Well on second thought, I guess I should have used more glue! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-10-2001).]

Or did you just fail the belay test and are afraid to admit it to all your CC.com buddies...

Caveman, Hey, I'm sorry you were unsatisfied with the service at the Redmond Gym. I don't know those guys, but alot of times the VW staff tends to be really sarcastic. Costomers don't allways pick up on the joke, or just not think it was funny. My guess is that you were pissed off before you even walked into the gym. Oh well, life goes on. As for the price, hell it's alot cheaper than skiing, or a regular fitness gym for that matter. It's a buisness man, and it's not cheap to run a buisness these days. Check out the prices for Rock Climbing Gyms in Tokyo if you think you've got it bad. As for SG vrs. VW, go to both and decide which you like better. Thats the benifit of living in this beautiful country of ours! But come on, why don't you tell us what really happened at the gym... Ok, let me guess. You went in there, changed into your spandex jumpsuit, yanked on those old dirty EB's, and chalked up. You were going to stretch, but then you saw some hot babe over in the bouldering cave. You tried to hit on her, but she was two focused on her project and woudn't give you the time of day. So in a desperate attempt to win her attention you jumped on this really cool lookin V5. You stuck the deadpoint to the mono, then- POP!!!!! Yes, the whole gym heard it Cavey, we all know what happened. You thought you were tough... and now you have a blown ring tendon. Well done. Don't take it out on the staff man, we see this kind of shit happen every day. Thats what waiver forms are for... Lambone the gym rat/devil [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-10-2001).]

Yeah, he said you just talked about how many cool new first ascents you've done. Right on man good for you. I was out gettin some in the Mountains.

Oh yeah Mr. Blister, I think you are right, the North Ridge does look like a better route. Just a little more involved than we were up for. Mabye next time.

Ya bro, that was us. I'm glad you had a great trip! I am also glad that you warned us about the rats. We buried our stuff under a ton of rocks and some how fooled 'em. Either that, or they just don't like my BO! As for the rock, Its the worst I've seen on any "clasic" alpine ridge line. I'll spare you the list of my experience, but I'd go as far as saying that I've havent seen worse rock in Montana, let alone the Sierras. But then again I am pretty new to the Cascades, mabye I'm just ignorant... I just have this thing about marginal gear, and big perched loose death blocks. Especialy when there are parties traversing bellow you. You never know when someone like officespace might sue your ass. Anyway you guys must have been moving too fast to notice the bad rock. I think you did the route about twice as fast as us! Well done. See ya next time!

I guess I am not cool enough to play with you guys... Thats OK, I didn't want to be part of your stupid game anyway... just kiddin'! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 08-15-2001).]

Cool climbing on not so cool rock. I'd give the rock a C and the veiw an A+!

Its cool, go do it! Only a bit of crevasse navigation right out of camp, but its pretty low key. Have fun!

Watch it buddy... I've been queing in my pre req's for the T-Klan. Spraying is way more fun than homework. Its all good until someone takes it personaly, or your boss reads it!

Spent Friday feeling like we were going to be blown off of the Sunrise Camp on Mt. Adams. We forgot the cards so my fiancee and I played twenty questions for about ten hours, wishing we had more food. Saturday we climbed above the clouds to the summit! We shared the Mazama Glacier with one other super friendly Aisan man until we hit the chain gang on the South Spur. The Mazama is a great route, and I'd recomend it to any begginer/intermediate glacier travelers. There was only a bit of crevase navigation right out of Sunrise Camp. It got my eyes opened! BTW- Everyone complains that the Native Americans on the Yakima reservation are rude. This was not my experience. The female officer/ranger(?) that we spoke with was really nice. Way freindlier than the two old bats at the US Forest Service office. She even said that she'd check and make sure we got out ok on Sat night. I was happy to kick down 20$ to the Reservation. Also, no need to buy a Volcano Permit if you are on Reservation Land. Bird Creek Meadows is the way to go!

Can anyone offer any usefull beta (besides what I can read in Nelsons book)? Thanks!

Try...? Do... or do Not... There is no try. YODA

Whillans slacklines? I thought that was a new school trick! I gues you can teach an old dog... FYI: I don't own a cell phone.

The Rocks are softer than the pad(In the Gym). We have had folks twist their ankles pretty bad from landing wrong on the pad. It works best for horisontal bouldering. The key is to be loose and absorb it. Bend your knee's and let your body crash, or bounce! There are no stupid questions!

Newbie, Quick suggestion: if your knees are bad like mine, cary big two liter water bottles up Li Si. Then dump'em out at the top. You'll save your knees on the way down. Off of I-90, Snow lake trail is good. And, Ingalls Lake trail is fun. Good Luck!

We are goin' nude the whle way man! Thanks

So, it doesn't sound like there is much for crevasse danger in route... dis the case? My lady and I are considering that route for this Fri. Thanks.

Hey officespace, Please don't intrude on my thread, your sarcastic comments are not welcome here. This is for friendly posts only! One more and your gettin a lawsuit But really, sorry the weather crapped out on you. Fredrogers' Thanks, you allways seem to come up with great suggestions. And they are always presented in such a modest way. Are you one of those "in-the-closet" hardmen? [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).] [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Jees, I go to work for the day and look at what this poor inicent trip report turns into. I love you guys... Aidan, lets go climbing sometime!

Thanks Ev, sounds like its your turn. Good Luck! Still its all relative, it ain't like we bagged the Chek Direct in 56 hours or anything. But I did kind of feel like a Twight prodige sucking down GU at hour 23! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Aidan, There was a couple a head of us, and the guy was a total prick... so yeah it was probably him. They held us up a bit, but we got the last laugh as they decided to bivi half way down the descent. We wanted to combine our efforts to find the right way down that thing in the dark, four headlamps better than two and all... But they wouldn't have it, I guess they were to cool for us. Mountain renegades I tell ya. You should totaly do the route. But keep in mind that a fall would be pretty serious up there. The climbing isn't hard, but there is alot of loose rock. Question every hand and foot hold. Test everything! You don't want a lawsuit on your hands! Thats the main reason I posted this trip report, not to spray about my climb, but to inspire aspiring alpinists like myself. Get after it dude! You the man... [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-30-2001).]

Caveman the conquerer!

Cavey, I just have to say that your motives are just all screwed up man! One day you want to restore the rock to its original state, and the next day you want to rape the rock of its natural boita. Did you consider how many organisms you murdered when you scrapped that moss off? You must like killing bugs as much as bolts!!!