Lambone

I had some reslung by Metolius once. They replaced my wires,a nd reslung them for about 5 bucks a peice.

Yes thats it! That thing looks rad, so it's never touched down??? I'm assuming that the snow patch on the left is the ramp you are refering to. I wonder if a line straight up the cave would go? I know the rock's bad, but it can't be as bad as some of the shit in Hyalite. Ever seen two equalized bolts before!!

Dave, That's cool, I hope I didn't come off sounding the wrong way there. I respect your opinion too. I ussually get bomber gear before the crux and then fire up to the next rest before throwing another screw in. The example I gave was of a friend of mine who is a high end mixed/sport+alpine climber. The route had very little ice, and poor rock protection. I think in that situation, placing gear to make the route safe is a crux in itself. It requires a special skill that only come with lots of practice, the more gear you place-the more practice you get! Look at old Alex's style, if the route took any kind of gear he would place it, even if it was just some crappy tied off blade. But then again, he ran alot of shit out too!

Hey Retro, Thanks for the tip. Oh, and if I slam bolts into the choss under that big fat flow at Banks, please don't rip 'um out.

Hi Dave, Reading your post made me think of a couple of things. Not to be negative about everything, but... First, The NW Face on Half Dome can be one of the most crowded Grade V's in the Valley. Plus the touristos are above you throwing rocks on your head! But I hear its an awsome route, and definately one to look forward to. Back to Ice for a second,(if your not interested folks, don't read ahead) I think we have two very diferent philosophies. You say, "Often it helps to just climb through the crux with no pro because it takes too much energy to hang out and put in pro, if there is any. That takes confidence you may not have if you are inexperienced." I'd disagree fully. I think that the most important skill in ice climbing is sewing up the crux of a pitch. Even if the gear is shit, it will slow you down a little, it might even reduce the forces on your last good piece. Running out cruxes is not being, confident it's being foolish. Of course, big difference between moving fast and eficiently to save time and energy, and moving fast because there is no other option(ie. too pumped to stop). I just think that its wrong to tell a begining ice climber to just gain the confidence to run it out. I'd say sew it up, at all costs. Let me give you an example: I've seen this theory in action, it works. A buddy of mine took a thirty foot upsidown fall ripping 5 pieces, equalized stubby screws, tied off blades, slung cicles, the works. The thing that held him was a sling over a small horn of ice. His head and neck missed the ground by 6 inches with rope stretch. I'm not trying to be synical, I don't know everything, and I'm still learning all the time. I just have a different opinion is all... Oh, and Matt - I wanna go Ice climbing in Canada, never been there...

Hmm, not exactly sure where that is, never been there. Oh well, I'll find it someday... I visited Banks last year and I'd have to say that I was quite impressed, for being out in the desert and all. It looks like there are tons of posibilities out there. Has anyone ever scoped out that thing right across from the pull out/ state picnic area, by The Cable and Absent-Minded Professor Area. Mabye its called Zenith or something. It is a big flow with two steps, that was quite a ways from touching down last year. Anyway, I didn't hike up under it, but the rock didn't look so bad from the road(about 200 ft away!). I'm thinkin why wait for the thing to touch down! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-18-2001).]

I think that jacket is really for snowmobilers...

Oh yeah, where's that one called Reqium for the Post Modern World at... Looks like Canada.

I use the Fishermans if I am top-roping something with two chords, or fixing... But the overhand is way quicker for rappeling. Plus the whole less likely to get stuck thing... $.02

Sweet, I'm there. Nice photo...

Matt, Ahhh Ama Dablam...yes, very beautiful. But more like a big technical slog up fixed ropes than a climb. Don't worry, we'll us that raft this year! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-17-2001).]

Sorry, but the Green ain't no WI4. Hylaite hasn't been snowed in in a couple of years, so it depends on the season. Snowmobiles are great, or skin in from the lake...

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: Lambone says: "Ice climbing is alot more like aid climbing than sport climbing." Exactly! That's why it's easier! Way easier! That was my point! And who knows about the access up at Mountain Home? (Is that ok to ask on this thread?) You missed my point, You can't compare ice climbing and sport climbing. They are way to different. Ice climbing and aid climbing force you to think, sport climbing forces you to grunt. Is thinking easier than grunting? I guess it depends...

Matt, Is it really important for me to explain why I want to go climb Utah cracks, or go to Alaska... I think everyone here can use their imagination. Why do I want to jump off El Cap, thats a good question. Here are some reasons (not in any particular order): 1. To face my biggest fear- Falling off. 2. Cause the decsent SUCKS ASS! 3. To freak out the tourists in the Meadow. 4. I want the perfect answer to the question: Why would you wan't to climb that thing? Answer: So I could jump off? Why else would you climb it? Nice topic

quote: Originally posted by Dru: lambone - you can be fat and weak and still be a hard aid climber (although living on a wall strips the fat pretty quick all the OE 800 and whatnot puts it back on pretty quick when you get back to the Deli) but you gotta be pretty strong AND have good technique for hard ice. You are right to an extent, but I'd put it this way... You can be fat and weak and still be a SLOW aid climber. It takes some serious fitness to aid FAST on STEEP terrian. Once again, I want to Jam a Desert Crack!

Sorry, I'm getting away from the point of this thread. I'd wanna go to Southern Utah- never been there.

New VW opens soon (next week?)in Bremerton. It is alot closer to Tacoma than Seattle! The walls are sweet, we've been puttin new routes up for the last couple of weeks. Check it out! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-23-2001).]

Yes too both.

Matt, Not to dis on your ambitions, 'cause I have the same one... But remember, WI 4 was last considered "hard" back in the 80's when people were using hummingbirds with tube picks... Drury seems more like "a good day out." I supose it's all relative. Anyway, I wanna climb El Cap and jump off. Twice [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 10-17-2001).]

So I'm sure it is some big local secret, but who is willing to spill the beans on where this "Plastic fantastic Lover" thing comes in. It looks fun...

Rafael- Just curious -What the heck are Napoleon Pockets???? Are they French or something? Like too small to be any good

three spots left as of tuesday afternoon...

I bought it for $550, I'm sellin it for $350-no less 'cause its in excellent condition. Bargain?? It's all realative I guess.