Lambone

If I had been, do you think I would admit it?

Well, yesterday my helmet saved my life for real. There I was sittin at the base of "Shriek" with four other climbers, minding my own buisness, when shhhhhhhooooooowwwwwsssshhh WHACK!!! A chunk o' ice fell from about 70 meters above and caught me square in the top of the head. I didn't get to see it, but heard it coming, and it felt like a freakin brick. A buddy said that it was about the size of a football. At first I thought it had broken my neck, and then I had to fight to keep from passing out. It felt like my head was ringing like a church bell hit by a sledge hammer! I was quite relived when the sensation passed and I regained my senses. My neck had full range of motion and everything was ok. Then the splitting headach set in, but luckily it eventually went away as well. Nevertheless, like the foolish addicts that we all are, we stayed and did the next pitch! I have a whole new respect for my helmet now. And I am thankfull that I wasn't wearing one of those skimpy foam things. I can only imagine how much it would have hurt with one of those ... Bomber plastic helmets are the only way to go when ice climbing in SW BC. Anybody else got an "I LOVE MY HELMET!!!" story? [ 01-21-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

I take it back...I got skunked by topropers on the second and third pitches of Icy BC today...I really wanted to lead all three Oh well, ran laps on Deeping wall instead. We had a contest to see who could knock the least anount of ice off. Vege was a close second with only three small chunks

1-20-02 Shreik of the Sheep- The first two pitches are in good shape, ice is a bit airy on the 2nd. The third pitch (last pillar) looked climbable, by the looks of it I'd rate it WI pretty damn hard and dangerous (ie. wet, not attached well, and poor protection.) We decided to give the ice a break and come back again when it was ready to be climbed I'd say it is worth doing the approach for the fat blue ice on the first 2 pitches. Crossing the river is mellow right below the approach gully. Calf deep water, but damn cold! Wear your helmet at the base...I got pegged hard! Met some cool dudes from Kamloops. Fun day out [ 01-21-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Cool, I stand corrected. Still, I have never seen Petzl recomend this, and the rep. didn't mention it at the last Petzl clinic. Oh well, whatever works right!

Cool, hey dan, did you spend anytime looking at Serendipity? If so whats it like? Thanks...

Moonstone's also coming back around. Yes it's all too expensive, but only for suckers who pay full retail. At least get it on sale...

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: It would be unlikely to find good ice in Lee Vining canyon in late March. Actually, for most ice-climbing areas in the lower 48, late March is sketchy. And that time of year is also too early for the alpine ice routes (like U notch).It's a great time of year for J-Tree, though. I have climbed in Cody in late March, fat plastic ice, t-shirts, wet ropes, it was a blast and super safe. The north facing stuff stays in for a while out there, cold clear nights and all.

After hiting the 3000 mark Cavey must have taken a personal day, or maybe he called in sick. Must be giving his wrist a break...

Your too funny will, I can't hang... P.S. From my experience, some Born-Agains make very good wall partners. [ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Are you sure you mean the Reverso? I am about 99.9 % positive that they do not include any mention of ascending a rope with a Reverso in the instruction manual that it comes with, or in the catolog, or on their web site. In theory it woulsd hold your weight if you had it rigged to your harness like you would rig it to a fixed belay station....same as a gri-gri would. But this sounds awkward and sketchy at best, plus it would not promote any upward movement without the use of a second ascending device. On the other hand, the manual for the new Pro-traction device made by petzl states that it can be used for ascending a fixed rope. But you'd never carry one on a glaicer. Hope that helps. BTW- Wdeitch, look at this web page: http://petzl.devcross.com/petzl/publicFamille?id=BLOQ#TIBLOCTiblocks are recomended for use from 8mm-11mm not 10mm-12mm. Don't bullshit if you don't know what you are talking about... Tiblocks kick ass, and work fine on an BW Ice Floss rope if you use a FAT locking biner. The 7.8 37m is the way to go. Tiblocks are twice as fast as screwing around with prusiks, and don't require that you tend to them with every hoist. Light, small, easy to use...what else do you want? Stick to your old prusik if you wish, but don't dis the Tiblock. [ 01-17-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Wild Things...

Whatever bitch

Great route, even has another step after that. Avalanche Gully and The Climb Above start after that as well, just incase you wanna make it a really long day.

We have it at the Gym...oh wait, no nevermind you wouldn't come down there anyway. Some good tics in Hyalite(Grade 3-4)are... Twin FallsThe DribblesPalisade FallsMummy 2 +The SceptorAnything in the Genesis area Cleopatras Needle is an awsome WI5 - big fat pillar, 2 pitches. Thrill is Gone is the best intro to hyalite mixed climbing. Also check out the Green Gully in Paradise Valley south of Livingston. Blodgett Canyon near Missula has a couple of grade 3's. Lots of cool stuff 2 hours down the road in Cooke City Wy. my favorite grade 3+, 4 there is Hydromonster. Cody rocks, but is more like 3-4 hours from Bozeman. Trust me. Fastest I've made it to the 'Zone from Seattle was 11 hours, in the summer, pissing in a cup. La Parillia is the best burrito place in the Northwest. [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

nevermind...sorry Ed, good luck.

So its starting to come down to the wire, and my regular partners are still iffy about going up this weekend. My other buddies have partners lined up already and I hate being a third wheel. I got three days off and I wanna climb some stuff, anything...but preferably cool stuff. This may be my last chance to go to Lilooet this season...wanna come with? I can drive. BTW- Where the hell is the CRACK-head? [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

It's about 8 hours to Missula, 12 to Bozeman...give or take depending on conditions over the pass in Idaho. There are some big ice routes in Glacier, but you may need a snowmobile to get in there. Or plan on a long ski in. There are a few routes near Missula. And tons of cool stuff in Bozeman. Again, road conditions into Hyalite can make or break a trip. Look for the Montana Ice Guide by Ron Bronkhorst(sp.) And checkout Montanaice.com or something like that. There is great ice in Montana, but the BC Rockies arn't a whole lot further.

Anybody get a look at Capricorn?

word

I have had a friend or two get buried in the Rockies. The tranciever came in pretty handy to them, although I wasn't there so I can't say for sure what happened... Don't forget that alot of avalanche fatalities occur due to trauma, shock, or hypothermia. I would spend the money on a good avalanche course before buying a beacon. That will give you a better idea of how to avoid triggering slides (where not to be), especially how to avoid triggering them on top of other people. I'd agree that trancievers give some people (ignorant peole) a false sense of sequrity. They think a tranciever is a pass that allows them to get on gnarly terrain. I used to be that way, and I speak from experience when I say that its a bad way to be. Then again, this ain't the Rockies... It seems like most days you'd have to actually try to trigger an avalance around here. Last word:If you don't have a peeps, at least carry a probe. [ 01-15-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Yeah, and Ice is not a commodity...

Who are you refering to dude?

Dru,Whatever, Deeping is a wide flow, not a fragile chandeliered pillar or something...don't you think there is a difference? Plus the warm ice up there is bonded to the rock really nicely. I see where you are coming from, but I don't think it applies on that route. Anyway, Deeping wall has been led. Albeit by crazy mother fuckers. [ 01-14-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Hey man nobody was ripping on you here, but I think we've got the same opinion...