Lambone

Y'all have a point there. I have allways enjoyed testing the limit of my placements while on top-rope. It helps me find the minimum amount of purchase that I can get by with before coming off. Practicing this has helped me learn to lead and follow faster. But you wouldn't find me using the weakest placement possible while soloing or leading... [ 01-14-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Everybody all ways trash talks people who top-rope ice as if it is a disgracefull act that the persuers should be ashamed of. I think that's bullshit... Of course, the right of way should be given to folks who wish to lead the first pitch of a multi-pitch ice climb, thus providing them access to the upper pitches. Aside from that I think T.R.-ing Ice at any grade is a blast. It allows you to try all kinds of stuff that you may never have the balls to try on lead (i.e. going leashless, hard unprotectable lines, dynamic movement, and insecure body positions, etc.) All this without the fear of getting broken. I am also all for treading lightly on Ice, inorder to preserve it for the next party. When your on T.R. you can afford to swing lightly and hook alot more. When I'm on lead I tend to want to bash a belay in with each swing. So maybe toproping is better for high traffic areas like Marble Canyon. Anyway I know there are people out there who think top-roping Ice is sacreligious. Whats your take on it? Spray makes the stress go away...

Easy on the rayisms...best not fuck with caveman on Monday morning. I just think toproping hard shit is hella fun sometimes. In a no stress smoke a bowl kinda way...

Yeah your more of a Rambles type of guy arn't ya Caveman.

I like the lightweight (ie. foam) helmet made by Camp. It fits well and is easy to adjust. It's best to keep it on the inside of your pack to avoid superficial, but scary looking dents in the shell. Kinda spendy though... Check and see if the "crag hat" is UIAA aproved before you buy one. [ 01-13-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

It's not about "seeing the summit," it's all about enjoying what you run in to along the way...and bitching at your partners on the way back down!

Once I was helping teach newbies at a Ice climbing demo in Hyalite Canyon for the gear shop I worked at. It was my turn on the top rope and I proceeded to show everyone what a badass I was... Then, about half way up I knocked a basketball sized chunk of ice off right above my head. It came down right on my face and nocked me silly. I looked at my belayer all dizzy and decided to redeam myself and finish the route. A couple of moves later I hear, "Dude you must be bleeding bad!" I look down and sure enough there is already blood all over the place. I get lowered and thirty people gather around to witness the gaping hole in my cheak. Some instructor huh... I had my first experience with stitches later that night.

I report that it is worth the drive, there are plenty of routes to fill a long weekend. Bring good rain gear as the routes we did were fully raining, get a room at the mile-o to dry out gear (nescecity). I reported the conditions of the routes we did above. I'll stress again, watch for falling Ice on Carlsberg! A boatload of huge chunks came flying over my head while I was run out 3/4 of the way up the pitch. I shit my pants...

Its just this whole thing about being afraid to fall. I just can't get over it. I personaly like tool placements that act as a belay, with my wrist being an integeral part of the anchor. Climbing leashless is fun and feels different, but I'll only do it on Toprope. Cuss I'm a wus.

Fuck Android Leashes... They are great untill the clips fall apart! I should have known not to trust anything with little techy parts and springs and shit. Maybe I'll get another pair in a couple of years when BD gets their shit figured out. As of now I'm writting them a letter to tell them that I almost died when BOTH of my leashes simutaniously fell apart on Syncronicity. I'm gunna demand free lockdown leashes or else I'm taking them to court for reckless endangerment.

The funny thing is that he edited that post twice. Just shut up Dan... Good luck b-rock! You'll find partners, lord knows there is no shortage of climbers these days.

A buddy of mine screams and swears while leading pitches that are hard for him (ie. strenious, sustained, hard to protect, scary death pitches that you'd never see me leading.) It seems to help him focus somehow. He yells at the rock, ice, his gear, me, the weather, anything. I guess its how he deals with his fears or whatever, but as his belayer I find it quite annoying. Still, I keep my mouth shut cause I know I'd never get on a pitch like that... I just sit, watch, and think...more power to him. (p.s.- he never hangs on the rope unless cleaning away bad rock or something.)

Lilooet kicks ass. Carlsburg is definately protectable, but beware of falling Ice. The second to last pitch of Syncro is scetchy at the top, very thin and hollow tube. Last pitch in the trees looks to be the same. First slabby pitches are hard to protect, but short. Crack is a funny muther fucker.

Nice, how long does Pandome usually stay in for? 61 beers since the start of Christmas break, and counting...

Anyone wanna go to climb ice on those days? I'll drive. I'd prefer to go with someone who has at least a little experience with Ice, but I'm flexible with that. I don't mind doing all the leading I just wanna swing some tools, have fun, and hopefully get three and a half good days in. Let me know if you're interested.

Yeah, sharp picks are nice, but the more you sharpen them the quicker they wear out. So I guess if don't mind burning through a set of picks or two each season, break out the file. Oh yeah, try to avoid hiting the rock...it's kinda hard on those picks.

epb, Sabertooths are the shit...I love mine. I gave away my old thrashed Grade 8 monopoints and now stricktly use the Sabers. Try them out before you sell them. The frontpoints should look like a flat head screwdriver that has been filed sharp. I other words, they are wide points, but should be beveled sharp. You shouldn't need to sharpen them. If you do, use a hand file, otherwise you could ruin the temper. Hope that helps, give them a chance! -Lambone

Thermarests are great unless they have a hole in them...and mine allways has a hole in it. Other worst piece of gear: MSR's version of the camelback, the purple water pouch thing. Mine leaked a full two litters of water into my pack (down coat+sleeping bag soaked)...that fuckin sucked big time. We were a week out into the Winds and it wasn't warm.

Fuckin thermarests...

Oh...well, whatever...

...maybe the winner could get pope's big lou mug or somethin.

Who's got the coolest User Name? Every once in a while you see a crazy User Name on Who's Online, or as a Featured Member...But most of them are just lurkers. So whos got the coolest, and most obscure User Name? 1. (Don't know, still lookin')2. SquidWard - I just saw it and it made me laugh3. Smokey McPot - pretty slick Keep dreamin caveman, mabye someday you'll look down and find that you have a Featured Member! Yes, I'm a geek.

Um, there was that one famous soloist who went to do the Steck-Salathe on the Sentinal and never came back...but I can't remember his name. He is the guy in the one picture soloing 5.13 or something and drinking a beer...you know that one!? --was it Derek Hersey???? [ 12-12-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Watch it Carolyn, don't make me boot you in to the sprayers section. You dirty girl you... [ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]