Lambone

Dear old-schooler, You think rap bolters are the only ones making a mess these days, you should see the number of ancient fixed ropes above Camp 2 on Ama Dablam...or the number of piss bottels and shit bags stuffed in the crack behind Camp 6 on the Nose. Climbers leave messes all over the place, and arguing about bolt ethics isn't going to solve that problem. Bolts are a reality, now its time to start looking at the bigger picture. The new challange climbers face today is in cleaning up their act. And if your part of the climbing community, most likely you are part of the problem, regardless of what you think about bolts. If you are a true low or non-impact climber great, instead of whining about the faults of lesser individuals, go out there and set the example for the next generation. Stop mocking them and maybe they'll start listening to you. There's my two cents, "Go downtown and have a rat chew that thing off your face." --Uncle Buck [ 12-08-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

let it grow

Makes me wish I was an inch tall

He's fuckin amazing, you'd have to go to Montana to watch...but it'd be worth it. I spent many hours belaying him on some of Montana's hardest/steepest mixed routes. Ever see Alex Lowes photo on Bulldog World, in Hyalite canyon. Look on the home page of :http://montanaice.com/ Pete put that route up... and did the first ascent. He linked up like 6 figure fours in a row or some crazy shit

quote: Originally posted by Ibex: Lambone, worked with a bud of mine name Tim, also a prisoner...er student at Iowa State Univ. Shawn Tim sucks....

A friend of mine who does some of that super steep + burly mixed climbing retro fitted his BD crampons with heel and side points. They are scary looking....

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: I have a question for you. Did you ever climb at Little Si before all the bolts went in and the guide was published? It was a beautiful, pristine place to hang out. Quiet and peaceful. The base of the crags was covered in carpets of moss, lichens and ferns.Now look at it. I used to think I should publicize the location of Canis Crag, but now... I don't think so. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: ScottP ] Do you think that is because of the climbing guide, or might it had something to do with the highway that is blazed up to the top of Little si??? I don't know, I'm just curious...haven't been around here that long. If this place is such a secret, why are you talking about it on this public forum? Do you have some thing to prove, or what?

nice

epb is a New Yorker...nuf said.

Damn, and I thought I was a tech wennie... Nice info Ibex. You guys climb on old grain cilos plastered in ice right?!? Have Fun!

Uhhhh...yeah, squeeze it 400 times and then try to pick your nose. No really, its cool cause you can also stretch it out with your fingers. That way you work the opposing muscles (whatever the techy term is...Courtney???) They also make three different densities of putty, depending on if you are recovering from injury, warming up, or training hard. Way better than the grip master or a tennis ball, but hard to find

Caveman trask

I like power putty, probably cause I use to squeeze my gum as a kid.

OOOOCCCCHHHH!!!! Damn...well looks like he wont be pullin on any pockets for a while.

quote: Originally posted by verticalturtle: But how expensive is regret? Dude thats a classic line

Check out these photos from that page... http://casbc.bivouac.com/18jan01photo1.htm

Look on the BC Route conditions thread, and click on Old Ice Page. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Dude, I hear ya... But there is only on problem with your aproach. The harder you smash the ice cicles, the longer they take to form up. Climb gently, like your on some kinda cascades choss fest...

I'm over it, suck it caveman...go back to high school.

no, I just clicked the wrong button... You responded be for I could fix it.

well, you have fun with your spray then...

quote: Originally posted by epb: No offense lambone...but I hate the ideal that tourism = economic prosperity. At least in countries where the land and environment are rich. First off because a countries economic prosperity and modernization does not necessarily mean health and well being for its people. I would hate to see the beauty and culture of Nepal modernized into a land fill we consider the first world. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ] Well, by no means did I say that tourism has led to economic prosperity in Nepal. I only said that it is their major source of income, do you disagree with that??? With out any type of modernization, Nepal faces depelating their natural reasources. There second major source of income is in the export of raw materials, of which they have few of significant value. So I suppose you would rather see it turn into a deforested strip mine than a industrial landfil... [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: Lambone ]

For the most part I'd agree with mtngrrrl. There are a few major flaws in haireballs argument that I feel inclined to point out. Mostly cause I am bored, and partly cause this is an issue I am studying at the moment. For what its worth, these are my thoughts on the topic. First, the people of Nepal, and all of Asia for that matter eat a shit load of rice (if they can get it). Yes villages in the mountains import the rice from the lowlands, but it is still a major staple of their diet. Porters carry about 500 lbs at a time on their heads while hiking straight up eroding trails. They don’t believe in switchbacks over there. Second, the people of Nepal and India have been burning dung for hundreds-who knows- thousands of years, since cattle were domesticated. It is a major renewable fuel source, it burns long, hot, and it doesn’t smell as bad as you'd think. If you trek in Nepal your food will be cooked with it too. Finally, most climbers take kerosene gas as cooking fuel in base camp, and Iso-Butane for on the mountain. Within Sagamartha National Park, Lang-Tang, etc...collecting and burning wood is illegal for both tourists and native peoples, and punishable by major fines from the National Governments Park Service. These parks were set up with the help of foreign investment from western nations. The tourism industry was boosted as result of structural adjustment forced by the IMF and World Bank, etc...Not to mention the non-profit organizations such as the Hillary Foundation, and Doctors w/o Borders, who have set up schools and Hospitals throughout the Himalayan region. And so on and so forth... I guess my point is that yes, western influence has been somewhat detrimental to Nepal. But with out the tourism industry Nepalese economy would be in a world of hurt(as if it isn't anyway). Yes westerners have once again changed an ancient culture, but if its for better or worse is highly debatable. I'll tell you this 99% of the Nepalese people that I spoke with said that they would rather be in America, or something to that effect. The younger generation, primarily ones who are educated (that I spoke with) are very bitter that Nepal is not modernizing with the rest of the world, they are being left out of the loop with no means of escape. Deforestation is a very minor problem compared to the water and energy shortage that Nepal faces. Of course, the advertisers who right the Patagonia catalogue will always highlight the deforestation issue, because that is what most of the Granola eatin’, Retro Cardigan wearin' folks in the USA care about…esthetics. Good Topic

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: What I am is an Angry Climber. Scott you are sooo cool. By the way. Why do you bother to send me private messages of topos to a crag and no directions? I dont care what route you did. Just what route I am gonna do. Yeah, that reminds me of the time you e-mailed me a list of your "first ascents" up at the Pearly Gates... No directions in that e-mail you freak.

Billy, Check out Will Gad's Page for some pretty recent info, and sweet photos.