Lambone

Actually, "The Dude" is a friend of mine who is going to school in Iowa. I'm pretty sure he is doing fine.

Alphas will feel like a VW bus compared to the Ferrari's that your drivin now... But they seem like a nice plastic boot. It is difficult to get the liner done up tight, there are no laces, only velcro. Leave it to BD to screw at least one thing up!

Practice aid climbing. Bounce testing pieces will give you confidence in them, and show you whats bomber and what isn't. The only problem is that once you've gotten used to aiding you will want to carry three of each piece, and you'll wanna hang and pull on everything!

1000 baby! Nice TR Loren, glad you had a good trip! Syncro looks much healthier than when we did it in early Jan., O.J. as well. One thing on approaches, if you head up river(Cayoosh) about 100 yrds or so it is much wider and shallower, about waist deep. This may be better if you want to use the hip waders. We did it in the buck Second, it seemed pretty clear to me that the land owner by O.J. doesn't want people crossing his land (the big signs saying NO Tresspassing!). We walked up the road to the top of the mini ridge /hill and cut across under the rock band. This avoids climbing over the fence, and being in veiw of the Ranch (it still may be his property, but at least it is not so obvious). This approach is totaly mellow, and any climber who cuts the field directly across to the route is just a lazy asshole... Anyway, have fun! [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

Well...this is it, one more post and I will have hit the magic 1000 mark ! I don't know how I got here, but I wanna thank all of those who have helped me along the way. This is a new level of achievement for me, and I am proud to share it with my fellow cc.com bro's. I look back at all the time spent sifting through this silly web site with no regrets. For I know that it has made me a better person, and it has also really helped me feel as if I belonged to something important… Thanks yall, VIVA lA SPRAY! I am 'BONE!!!!

Ummm....how the fuck do you break in plastic boots???? If you know please fill me in, thanks.

I have had friends who have done NOLS trips in Patagonia, and in the Wind Rivers, they both really liked it. I learned by heading out with a bro and paying my dues through many epics that I am lucky to be alive after. I never had 4,000 dollars to spend on climbing at once.... My advice is if you choose to figure it out for yourself, remain humble, don't succumb to ambition, and trust your instincts. Be happy with taking baby steps as you progress through your experiences and you’ll live long and prosper.

Nice, hey can you elaborate on the "three pitch route" abit? Just for curiosities sake...

It'll work, just makes for a heavier set up... Be sure to clip them independently.

Yeah, low profile and dull resistant are two key features of the Aermet. I think I bent mine while camming it in a crack...not by swinging into rock, oh well. A friend of mine snapped the tip right off a stinger pick while soloing grade 3 ice

Hey I thought my Sabertooths were pretty trendy!

Haven't seen it, but I'd bet that it's in good condition. The first pitch is a short vertical tube that was still there after the warm spell three weeks ago. The next two pitches looked like they had shedded their ice. They are slabby rock pitches in a shallow gully. They arn't two hard, but without ice, pro will be hard to come by. May wanna bring a handfull of pins just in case. When we did it the first week in Jan there was lots of water runing over those slabs. As long as it didn't dry up there will be some ice. The top looked fine two weeks ago. Have fun!

'Bout time you came outa the closet... No you can't see it from the parking lot. It is to the left of the main quad, I forget the name. There are some photo's on Lorens web page- www.cascadeclimber.com I don't know what it looks like now though. Probably a good idea to check with ski patrol to make sure its cool to climb there. Or go on Monday when they are closed. Have fun [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: Trask- shut up! You sexually harass every female on this board. You don't even climb so what the hell are you doing on here anyway? I'm all for spraying- but you're a dick. werd!

Yeah, I don't know how it happened, but one of them just ain't straight...I guess they arn't as bomber as thet say. I mostly like them because they are very resistant to getting dull. I was just kidding though, they aren't for sale. I would go on a hunt through all the gear shops "spare ice climbing parts bin." You may come across one buried somewhere.

I have a set up for bid. Retail price was $140 for the pair, so we'll start there. One of them is a little bent, but still works fine.

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: The rages are working alright, too. Only problem I have with them is that they seem to stick in the ice TOO much. I need to figure out a way to file some of the teeth down to prevent that, I think. Now, if I could only find a glove system which works! In time, I guess. [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: carolyn ] Yup, it' not the tool, it's those damn new Cobra picks. I wouldn't file the teeth at all, instead file the point off of the top of the tip, or nose, or whatever you wanna call it...you know what I mean? Round it out and they will clean better. I had the same problem. Did you have to buy seperate Inverno liners as well? Sounds spendy... Try the Dry tool gloves for leading and some warm belay mits. Works for me.

quote: Originally posted by specialed: Fuck that. Your playing Russian Roullette with those gnarly old slings. Its cheap and easy to just replace them. I trust old cord alot more than I do webbing though. I meant on lead, I'd never rap off a rusty rurp with mystery tat... We replaced some of the old rope threads in Thailand, many are passed through sketcky looking pockest

I think most ratty old slings are pretty bomber. I've seen a few horendous fixed pieces (like ancient rurps and shit)in Yosemite with mystery sling that you wouldn't wanna walk your dog with...but it held fine. I have never been so freaked out as I was by the anchors in Thailand...old, completley sunbleached, ratty, salt encrusted slings every where. But people trust them like there is no tommorow. I go by the theory that if you leave a sling you should take a sling as well, or two.

Carolyn, One point is just as bomber as two(if the ice is good). I learned with monos, at first I didn't like them, mostly due to poor technique...but as I got better I learned to love them. They are better in some situations, but worse in others.One thing that I really liked about them is that it is easy to just hook them in your old tool placements rather than bashing in new foot holds every step. A few years ago I switched to horisontal dual points (BD-Sabertooths). These rock! I even gave away my old mono's, now I use the Sabertooths for everything. If you are looking for a second pair of crampons to compliment the dual points that you ordered, consider the Sabertooths. They are great for all around stuff, alpine, glaciers, mixed, and yes even steep waterfalls. Plus, they are fairly light, simple, and not much snow balls up underneath. (No I don't work for BD, I just have alot of their stuff. I don't see the point in having two pairs of waterfall ice crampons... Have Fun! P.S. What kind of boots did you end up with? [ 01-31-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]

1. Mt. Helen -North Colouir to West Ridge (Wind Rivers) 2. Ryan, Pete, Tony, Jason, Mitch, Chrysten, oh and John Muir 3. Modern Home Environment (right on Kieth!), anything in Baffin someday

Having tounge freeze to ice screw... Almost slipping off top of water fall trying to get down to tree anchor to set up a TR... Only clipping into one rap chord after a long cold day... Getting whacked in the head by a huge chunk moving at terminal velocity last week... Almost falling into the gaping hole at the top of Syncronicity... Stepping on buddies dog with crampons on while belaying...oops Oh shit...what if my fiance see this list, forget it, none of that stuff realy happened to me

Hey f%#*K you RURP... I never said I was an expert at anything. Matt asked question and I offered my knowledge on the subject. I've done one nailing route in Yosemite, that is the extent of my hammer knowledge, so I listed the things I found important about hammers. Where do you come off judging my advice based on the fact that I work at a gym. How about you wait till you've climbed with me before you start talking shit. 'Bone has spoken...la-di-da.

Yeah...whats your point. Don't we all. [ 02-01-2002: Message edited by: Lambone ]