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Everything posted by thelawgoddess
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[TR] Mt. Rainier- Gib. Ledges 4/3/2004
thelawgoddess replied to skyclimb's topic in Mount Rainier NP
pretty pic. -
camping above "traditional" high camps on Rainier
thelawgoddess replied to mountaineer38's topic in Newbies
why in hell would you want to carry all of your crap that far up the mountain? unless you're going up and over, at some point i'd think you were almost better off making a one-day push. no? -
Kraft Mac & Cheese $60. Comes w/ new BD Arc Angels
thelawgoddess replied to Rainier_Wolfscastle's topic in The Yard Sale
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wow; sounds like you guys got quite a bit of climbing in!
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Kraft Mac & Cheese $60. Comes w/ new BD Arc Angels
thelawgoddess replied to Rainier_Wolfscastle's topic in The Yard Sale
please post pic of mac and cheese. -
i took a few and hopefully they turned out but it might be a little while before i can post them. (still don't have a digi!)
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watch out for information overload!
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went to the san rafael swell for a couple of days this week for a taste of slot canyoneering. did little wild horse and bell canyons one day - "weekend warrior" stuff. and ding and dang canyons the next - a little more "hardcore." nothing technical, but i sure was glad i had a climbing background for some of that stuff. it was super fun and i highly recommend!!!
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follow the hot links to find the resources of the quotes. (i'm not saying who decides what or that i agree; i'm just relaying some "historical insight" i found on the internet.)
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that's what you said the book said. i was just sharing what i found to highlight the original difference between pink and red. "Redpoint" Originally there was a distinction between a redpoint style of ascent, and a pinkpoint. The former was used where the leader placed any protection (such as the clips) whilst leading, and the latter was reserved for ascents where all the protection was in place. The latter style became the norm, and became known as a redpoint.
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Pinkpoint (1) A somewhat obsolete term used to describe a clean lead ascent clipping pre-placed gear. (2) Unfortunately now commonly used in areas where balls are small to describe a redpoint. Most of the hardest routes in the world are only ever climbed pinkpoint.
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from what i understand, you can fall and get lowered off as many times as you want, leave your gear, and if you still climb it clean that day it's a redpoint. am i wrong?
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Not that much, except that one is the ground (where you can lie around and have your belay slave massage your forearms) and the other is somewhere on the route. i'm sure that's not what snoboy (or anybody else) meant. i think we're all assuming you're not unroping and going to starbuck's for a quick latte before resuming the climb. and besides, massages are definitely aid.
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perhaps but this is actually one way to test your ski boot fit - when you stand up straight your toes should just touch and when you lean forward into the tongues your toes should just pull back from touching.
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Climbing skins - Ascension Clip Fix or G3?
thelawgoddess replied to TomR's topic in the *freshiezone*
actually, what i heard was that their glue was a bit too "superior" - when you folded one in half it took 4 people to pull it back apart ... and then all the glue would be on just one half. -
i agree with snoboy. you can even fall or hang in the first scenario, downclimb or get lowered, do it all over again clean and it's still a redpoint. go get you some! ;-)
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You know you've been posting too much on cc.com...
thelawgoddess replied to Distel32's topic in Spray
when people meet you in person for the first time (in a way that has nothing to do with cc.com), find out you're on cc.com and what your avatar is, and remark with a smirk: "oh, you're [inset avatar here]." -
hmm ... i just might be able to make that ...
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Climbing skins - Ascension Clip Fix or G3?
thelawgoddess replied to TomR's topic in the *freshiezone*
i did - finally. i have a pair of the new silver g3 completes. *imho* the g3 tail system is better than the bd clipfix system. (so if you want to stick with ascensions, i would recommend the sts over the clipfix.) i have really not used my ascensions in enough varied snow conditions to give a truly fair comparison, but my first impression is that the g3 skin itself is not as "strong". i would like to take the ascensions out in the same type of snow/conditions i felt the g3's were having trouble on before i swore by that, though. -
erik, you're a crackup. (or is that crackpot? ) i've never used the bca probe, but it's likely a "fine" probe. 240 would probably be the minimum length you'd want, and it's got markings so that's a bonus. i can't imagine you'd really need anything beefier. unless you plan to pole vault. since it was free you might as well as throw it around in your living room some, take it to the snow ... and tell us what you think.
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i'd say they're too big, too. i would want my AT boots to have a performance fit (like a downhill boot, which for me is a 1 to just-over-1 finger shell fit). if the place you went to didn't shell size you, do it yourself or find someone who can. you don't want a race fit, but a recreational fit is not going to be your best choice either. and if you're going to do any technical/ice climbing in them, take that into consideration as well. if you're really concerned about the boots you bought, call a good bootfitter and ask him if you can bring them in for a second opinion.
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yeah; rumr ... you're probably right. but my partners all tend to be - um - much bigger than me!
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i've used an edelweiss ultralight 9.9x70 for two years now and love it. will probably replace it soon with the same. it's heavy compared to most people's 60's (duh) but having a 70 has been so advantageous on so many occasions that i will likely never buy a 60 single. that said, i recently bought a pair of roca migu 8.1x60 halfs - primarily for ice, but i'm sure i'll end up using them for alpine routes. i haven't done much aid, but i think if i was doing a bunch of big wall stuff i'd prefer something along the lines of a mammut supersafe. i think the supersafe would make a great all-around rope if you only want one for everything. personally i'm not sure i'd trust a 9.4 for a shitload of trad, a bunch of aid, a mess of flying off sport routes ... *and* lots of hangdogging. unless you're into buying ropes pretty often.
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you might find this thread an interesting read: The 5.10 Barrier