fishstick

The MEC Alpinelite 30 is the replacement. It's padded, but the pad is removeable and it then stuffs into its pocket as before. See W05 catalogue. GB

There is a strong possibility I could make this one. I have a couple of evening meetings, but I'm unsure how long they'll go... GB

I suspect the lower Coleman on Baker would be the gold standard. The later in the month the better, but the area offers a variety of aspects that allows one to find optimal conditions (except in early season). If warm, try to find lines that are out of the sun (obvious) and dirty. Those lines will have much harder ice than the softer clean stuff. GB

If I understand the problem correctly, you're having trouble pulling the bail out of the slot? The easiest method, but it requires 2 people, is to get one person to stand on the crampon behind the bail (near the centre - ideally on a piece of wood), while you pull it out using a quickdraw girth-hitched around the base of the bail. Otherwise, still use the girth-hitched QD, but either hold the crampon in the opposite hand or pin it to the floor with your knee. Cheers, GB

There will be no direct replacement for the Icefall coming out under the MEC name. The closest option would likley be the new Alpine 60, due later this summer. The A60 will be quite a bit lighter than offerings such as the Brio series, but I don't think it's as light as the Icefall. Cheers, GB

Please pardon my ignorance, but, has the true central South Face of McArthur been done? I've often wondered if there is anything hidden (and survivable) on the South side of the Logan massif. GB

I think I'm probably safer on solo trips. I'll argue that the bigger the group, the harder it is to make decisions. The ability to make an accurate, timely decision is critical in dynamic environments (mtns) where weather, temperature, snow, etc are always changing. Another factor associated with groups is ego. "I" don't want to be the one who pulls the pin (in a group) due to lack of courage or an over active spidey sense. Finally, when I'm travelling solo, I tend to travel faster. When travelling in groups I'll be quick for bursts, but solo I'm able to pace myself so that it might be hours between breaks of any sort. I'm more likely up and out of there before the slopes cut lose. Finally, especially on ice, my brain is simply bolted on harder when alone. Less noise. More focus. Usually. Otherwise I simply wander home without a care in the world. GB

I met Rob while climbing in Scotland about four years ago. Very nice guy. Very positive. A couple of years prior to my visit he'd written an article in Climbing (I think) about the Scottish mixed scene. I was belaying at the base of Shelter Stone and it turned out that the guy belaying on the next route over was the writer, Rob. He was a great ambassador for the sport. He also sure seemed to have a lot of fun doing it! GB

Ade, Super effort! An excellent read as well!! GB

The BBC text at the beginning of this thread actually missed the hardest hitting (best) comments. I STRONGLY recommend finding them. GB

The BCA system mentioned above is stunning (and very expensive). Even with the probe, it's very light-weight. The probe helps you to determine that the area where you plan to dig a cave actually has enough cover (and no ice layers, etc)(as a climber you probably aren't carrying a probe normally). The blade is compact enough to carry in the lid of a big pack. The handle will usually fit in a pocket (I think I can get both in a lid in a crunch). After using the BCA for a year I picked up my wife's voile and couldn't believe the weight difference. The former is worth every penny. GB

I haven't seen one in years. Try Mountain Magic (Banff) or MEC (Calgary - not Vancouver). The picks will probably be too old to show up on a computer, so you'll have to describe them to staff (unless staff is older than about 35). I think it may have recently closed, but the Hostel shop in Calgary sold them. Try running an ad in the CMC (Calgary Mountain Club) news letter. They may have a website. Chacals were the tool of choice in Canada, pre-tirol. Remember to tell people if you're looking for the one bolt/2 scroll key, or two bolt version. Good luck. GB

If willing to pay (and travel), take them to MEC in Vancouver and ask to speak to Bryan Preston (head ski tech). He mounted Silvrettas to my wildly sidecut 120s, and another pair to a friend's 100s. He's very, very solid at the task of tricky mounting jobs. Phone first because he only works four days a week - goes skiing on the rest... GB

A glove in an insulated mitt isn't a bad idea. It behaves much like an overbag in a sleeping bag system, where the outer insulated piece draws moisture out of the inner. I've tried it, but didn't have the perfect, matched system. You need an oversized mitt that's somewhat useless when used on its own. Personally I'm not sure I would use wool for the innner however. One of my favorite climbing gloves (now worn out) was a fully sealed glove shell, with a very light fuzzy backer laminated to the inside. They were fit to be worn without a liner (really small). They were waterproof (as waterproof as a climbing glove can be), offered superb gripping power (due to the lack of bulk), and warmed up VERY fast due to the lack of internal material that could freeze during belays. OR made them, but they've long since vanished. A real problem with membraned liners is that they take FOREVER to dry, even in a motel with the heater on high while the users are re-hydrating down the street. In a perfect world you need at least two pairs of liners (motel based) and non-membraned systems for multiday (tent based). Somewhere up there folks were lamenting the demise of Serratus though... GB

Re: Jordop 9.05am 1) Done, I've used it, but I'm unsure when it is due in. Thinking about it, there are two of them coming (used the second as well). 2) Quite some time ago MEC switched from nylon to polyester for tent flys to achieve higher performance in wet conditions (nylon absorbs 10 times more water than polyester and stretches when wet). Secondly, it is worth noting that some of the very "light weight" fabrics look light, but in reality weight savings may be as little as 100g per tent with an overall decrease in durability (somewhat dependant upon which factory the light weight fabric is coming from). 3) Regarding the mm, I'm unsure. I personally did not see a replacement. They were a nice product, but lacked durability in the palm for placing screws. I'm almost of the mindset to use a lighter unit when climbing, combined with a belay mitt for the standing around part. Q: which generation of mixed masters do you own (membrane on shell or membrane on liner? GB

The "alpine" based replacement of Serratus product isn't in S05 because photos/specs of such needed to be in the hands of the cat production staff back in the fall. That was quite impossible. New product has been designed, with replacements of the Genie, Aladin, A60 and A85, to my knowledge, on order for this summer. The description given to me of the Aladin replacement (my favorite pack) was "you are going to shit". It sounds very good. Hats off to Gourd for getting this stuff getting done quickly. Cheers, GB

Simond Vautour. Takoon Otherwise rage, then viper. Then alpwings and aztars. Actually you should consider the possibility of climbing leashless. Then the Takoon and Viper win. I strongly prefer the mixte pick on the Takoon. Note: the hand thingy on the Takoon is removable! The Vautour has about the same clearance as a rage or old axar, suits small hands best, has a very comfortable head assembly for canne, and a very good forged pick. Think of it as the modern result of a cross between the old naja and piranha. Negative aspect is that you can't clip the spike, but on a positive note, there is a clip-in point on the pick when holstering the tool. GB

I have a fair amount of experience using N2S (transition in the case of MH). Personally I find that it doesn't work that well if you put much over top of it. My personal maximum is a fleece vest. In the past I tried it a full layering piece, but found moisture stayed inside for much too long. It's hard to explain, but it's as though I couldn't develop enough of a temperature gradient to make the N2S work. N2S does have its place, but I'm not convinced it's in the mountains. Use it when you're just hammering (cycling or trail running, in cool, blustery and possibly wet conditions). For those purposes, it is remarkable. Cheers, GB

Mike, Thanks for your reply. I will respond this evening. Buried here. Cheers, GB

Dru, Sit down and drink beer with the designer. Look at the Aladin 1 on page 33 of the W2000 catalogue. Think about the name. Cheers, GB

Hi All, I’m going to start by saying that I work for MEC. That may introduce a bias, but it should also clear the air of a bit of the silliness above. I own 4 Serratus packs: a Genie, an Aladin, a prototype 60L Aladin and an Alpinelite. I think I know their products. I agree the genie is a useful pack. Given the option of building it out of better fabrics with an updated design, and selling it at a lower price, I suspect most would pick the less expensive option if offered a choice. Finishing details would also improve. Dru wants a 50L Genie. It was called the Serratus Aladin. One of the core arguments discussed is MEC’s position that fewer people are buying big packs. The industry term for the phenomena is “activity based car camping”. People have discovered that you can day-trip 2 peaks in two days, or ski Cerise and Steep Creek in the same weekend. It adds flexibility and enjoyment to schedules dominated by long hours and a possible mortgage (part of the aging process). It really is happening. Go to Zion. Go to Banff. Go to the Enchantments. Not everyone goes for a long walk on the Alaska Panhandle. An argument is made that Serratus enjoys a 30-40% price advantage over, among others, Gregory. A Serratus Alpine 60 runs at 269.00, while a Gregory Reality is 229.00. An Alpine 85 is 295.00, while a Gregory Palisade is 289.00. Am I missing something? As for Arc’t pricing in 04, their sales against Gregory reflect the success of their pricing strategy. Mike would seem to write that sales potential should not be a driver of decision making at MEC. Having watched 54 of some of the best and brightest of my co-workers get the chop due financial stresses, having worked under a wage freeze, and still working under a hiring freeze, I’m going to politely suggest that there are some of us in the building who will choose not to subsidize someone else’s purchasing whims with our own pay-cheques. I agree that it is painful to see manufacturing moved offshore. One has to realize however that until people step up to the plate and state their positions with their wallets, that isn’t about to happen. On a positive note, moving offshore gives access to much higher levels of production technology so new products can be stronger, lighter and better. One only has to look at the new Osprey offerings to realize the possibilities. Jordop argues that our lines have become more pedestrian, we’re failing to keep pace, and that we’ve cut back on designers. That ignores our introduction of a 450g 3 layer gore jacket, a 225g offering that’s in the pipe, another 500+ gram option aimed at hard alpine climbing, completely new climbing specific gore pants, bibs and softshells. We planned to have our Hybrid softshell out for fall 04 but the program was stalled when a fabric supplier refused to sell the W/B to us for political reasons. It’s now an F05. We’re presently working on the introduction of 4 models of packs aimed at alpine climbing. Last year we introduced 7 models of down bags and three years ago introduced our Hybrid sleeping bag. In terms of designers, two quit to start their own businesses, while one moved to Germany because her husband landed the top design job at Puma. That leaves three stressed folks, and if you know someone with a solid industrial design background, get them to send us a CV. I am confused about comments made regarding sleeping bag fills. We introduced what we call “Hyperloft” in three models as a test in about 98. That proved successful, though we bumped the binder content from 12 to 18% for even more durability, and moved it to most of our line the next year. Each step of the way results were tested at KSU. No other insulation changes were made until this year, when we replaced the 1.8oz PL1 in our overbags, with a well-tested 100g variant of our other insulation. As for the System glove being disc’ed, well, they weren’t selling. My wife owns a pair. I recommend getting them at the reduced cost. Cheers, GB

I'm very limited for time at the moment, but... I have used about 1/2 dozen variations. You love them or you hate them. If you like softshells and hate wearing or carrying gore, you're of the former group. They tend to handle variable conditions best. If it's pissing NW style, wear gore. Brilliant for ice climbing. Brilliant also for wearing around town (not kidding). They can get very wet in bad conditions. Tend to be heavy so justifying gore just in case gets awkward. Very good in cold conditions. Best suited to those who already own a quiver of jackets. One of my favorites though. Will try to add later. GB

Lyle, I’m taking a bit of a guess here as I don’t have a Viper droid or a Quark near my desk. The Android bit that bolts to the shaft may be too flat to fit a Quark, as the rear of a Viper shaft is quite wide. I’ll try to find one tonight and check. A second potential problem (once again, no Quark) is the high attachment point. There may be an annoying amount of slack between your wrist and the clip, which might make it hard to grab. I’m unconvinced that the bolt on variation is stronger. It’s like comparing a ski boot buckle and a shoelace. At a glance the buckle is stronger, but in reality they’re much easier to gork than a simple lace. There’s just nothing that can go wrong (except the actual attachment points common to both and the fact that sooner or later the leash will auto-detach) with the webbing and buckle. Contradicting the above though, is the fact that the bolt on variation is lighter, which should preserve the swing characteristics of the stick better. Cheers, GB

I have used the system a fair amount. I think 50m of 5mm weighs 737g. It must be kept in a throw bag as wind affects the light line quite badly. Not super useful when you know you're going to do a pile of bad raps, but very good for those just in case trips (potential rain on the apron). I use it in combination with an 8.1 when soloing waterfalls that demand raps. The biner jams very easily in trees or bush! It's worth making the extra effort to get very clean raps. The ideal throw bag is a small fanny pack. You need to be very careful when stacking it in such to avoid tangles. Actually, rather than throw the system, just rap on the main line and let it feed out of the fanny (facing forward). Stiffer cord is better, but usually more expensive. Use the smallest locking biner you can find for the top. Cheers, GB

Hi All, I was wondering if anyone would be willing to share their thoughts (sans spray) regarding their preferences as to zipper (crotch) design in soft and hardshell bibs for winter climbing. The focus of the question is to assume that a climbing harness will be worn during the call of nature. Feedback from active female winter climbers is appreciated. The feedback is to aid in the development of products for MEC. Gender? What system do you use now? Moon, through the crotch, drop seat, nothing (system must be dropped). How long have you used that system? Why do you use that system? In a perfect world what system would you use (ignoring a potential need to update under-garments)? Final question for women only: For winter climbing (not skiing) would you prefer to wear a pant or a bib (soft and/or hardshell)? Please answer here or PM me. Thank you. GB