fishstick

Free hanging in a full body harness for a long period of time can cause suffocation. They tend to compress the diaphragm. GB

As I understand it, chest harnesses can cause spine damage by snapping the neck forward. They also have a tendency to accordion the spine between the waist and chest harness. A friend tried using a carabiner attached to the shoulder strap of her pack instead, but found that a) she was catapulted forward when her partner broke a snow bridge in a big way, and b) found the system very difficult to escape because it aligned her head first to the slot. GB

To me, the sense of accomplishment in climbing is usually a result of overcoming my own doubts, or especially fear. There's something special about getting to a mental state where you can lock out or step beyond anxiety, and achieve a serious objective seemingly in motor control with good style. I find it doesn't happen very often, but when it does, the sense of accomplishment lasts for years. GB

Whitesaddle is the absolute gold standard in regards to service, communication and area knowledge including terrain and weather patterns. If you look at the cost of maintaining and insuring a helicopter, and the risks of flying in that environment, it becomes obvious why the costs are so high. GB

Superb route! Hat's off to Kris for an exceptionally well thought out effort. GB

Yes. It's OK, but unlike plaquettes, gi-gi's and reversos, it fails to lock when seconding unless the rope is weighted. This eliminates multi-tasking ability when belaying seconds. It does however make lowering seconds possible without changing modes. Overall, when compared to the plauguettes and reversos, I see the tre as having no realistic advantages but the major shortcoming mentioned. GB

The size 1 Petzl Elios fits quite small; it is however rather expensive. GB

Not surprising really. I've talked to a number of rope industry folks and most seem to have tales of test results falling below test expectations when it comes to small ropes. It seems that although these ropes can pass a UIAA test when taken out of the plastic bag, if used for a week of climbing (even sans falls), they fail much more easily. Note however that most of these conversations (at least the most interesting ones) took place prior to the widespread introduction of super skinny cords. At the time concern was centered around sub 60g singles. GB

Although they add clutter, they also reduce complexity at stations. At only 48gm it's a no-brainer on ice or alpine terrain. GB

Although there may not be a route that can be done leashless that would be impossible with leashed tools, the former would seem to offer better style. Leashless tools do offer the opportunity to match (ie. left hand grabs right tool) which can offer unique solutions to cruxes. Dropping the tool is an issue especially when removing one with a stuck pick. Ask yourself however how many tools would you have dropped had you not had leashes and how do carpenters avoid dropping hammers working on tall buildings? GB

I'm not trying to say that you can climb harder with leashless sticks, but rather, the concept might be much more applicable than originally thought when it was forced upon climbers in comps. I've fiddled with probably 50 variations of leashes in a quest for perfect security and ease of exit, yet the pure fun of leashless tools has left a very positive impression (maybe it's just because I'm not facing a 60 meter slug-fest at the moment). It's like going from a very cluttered rack, to carrying only draws, or soloing. It's beautifully simple! One of the things that also struck me was it forced me to be a better climber, because I needed to utilize better technique in an effort to spare my arms, in the same manner that forcing yourself to use only textured pannels (rather than holds) on an EP wall for your feet makes you more aware of body position. Please keep in mind that I'm not trying to ram the concept down anyone's throat. I do however think that we should be aware of a potential big change. It's also worth noting that a friend with almost no ice experience, but 5.12 or 13 rock ability adjusted to leashless tools instantly. He feels that leashes just seem contrived and limiting. GB

Seriously folks, there was a huge amount of negativity when sport climbing hit North American shores, but look what it did to standards. All of the arguements offered thus far center around safety, but none address ethics, asthetics or power. GB

I was going to, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to holster one of the "deer antler sticks" when cruising short rock sections. GB

Noted, but Guy Lacelle soloed polar Circus leashless and I believe Riptide has been climbed leashless as well. When I first cut off my umbilicals in the mid 80's it felt risky, but now I'd laugh at the thought of ever re-attaching them. GB

Have you ever thought about getting rid of your leashes? On a few occasions this year I was able to try modern leashless tools (Scuds and Top Machines). Quite admittedly I've found them intimidating and have only top-roped with them, but they left a refreshing impression of freedom and new challenge. In a sense, jumping on the leashless bandwagon might be similar to an experienced alpine skier switching to tele boards. I don't think leashless tools suit all terrain and situations, but then again, neither do many skis. A second set of tools is actually cheaper than an extra set of boards. I've heard of people bolting rope thimbles to their existing tools to provide a less expensive alternative than purchasing new ones. A number of very good climbers in North America are going or pondering the switch to leashless tools. Apparently much of France already has. Should we step up to the plate? GB

Nelly, Assuming you mean Mt. Steele in the Icefield range (Yukon), would you be talking about the 7 pound HF radios rented by Andy Williams, complete with 200' antenna? Sort of Korean war vintage? Ours came complete with dead batteries but it took a while to figure that out. We initially thought it was a geographic issue so we kept moving the damn thing from place to place. GB

Apart from the hostel, I know of nothing cheap in Lousie. If staying in Canmore, try the A1 motel. Not perfect, but under 200.00CDN per week with a kitchenette. It might also be worth trying the motel at Saskatchewan River crossing, an hour North of Louise (1/2 hour South of Polar Circus). A couple of years ago it opened in March, had dirt cheap rates, a hot tub, a bar with a happy hour and Mt. Wilson in the back yard. Just watch those sunny slopes! GB

Exiting the Northern Waddington range via Crazy Creek (between Twist creek and the Scimitar glacier). It's got the worst slide alder and devils club on the planet, the worst bugs I've ever encountered, two sporting creek crossings and a very real grizzly population. Add exhustion and the need to camp in the middle of a bear trail and you're getting the picture. GB Ooops, guess that's the Coast Range... [ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: fishstick ]

"Dead bird is the last Gore manufacturer in NA..." Wrongo! GB

OK, I turned my brain on and measured the width of my fist. 149mm is way out after all. GB

I've used 2F's and Black ices and strongly favour the performance of the 2F. They also fit a wider variety of boots. GB

So I guess if Airbus Industries, BC softwood producers, European and Canadian farmers, and Korean steel producers all chose to use prison labor, that wouldn't be seen as a subsidy by the US government?

It would create a nightmare if everyone in a crowded area did this, but I've had very good luck with "fox 40" whistles. 1 blast = secure. 2 blasts = on belay and climb. GB

#9's have a width of 149. GB

DMM Raptor in a 60CM (possibly with the optional reverse curve)(yes, I can self arrest with it). Heavy, but it's got a HUGE adze, a spike that doesn't choke with snow or wear out and a good European handle on quality control issues. The 60 swings much nicer than the 65 and stays out of the way better on rock pitches and on approaches. GB