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Everything posted by To_The_Top
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Doh!
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quote: Originally posted by mattp: The Mowich Face is pretty good - it is not terribly difficult but there is some ice climbing involved and it is both scenic and isolated. A few years back, I climbed it from a very scenic camp that I believe was at about 10,500' just below the face. In late July or early August we headed up the middle of the face on (maybe) 35 degree terrain, climbed a mixed pitch, and exited left on a ledge that led to some ice climbing on the side of Ptarmigan Ridge (I don't recall whether this was "Central Mowich Face" or what). Descending the "Sicle" on the Tahoma Glacier was a big mistake - it required technical downclimbing beneath very large seracs in the hot sun. We should have gone back down the route or descended the normal Tahoma Glacier route. I spoke with group of 4 that just did this route on saturday, and they said it was good. They were on our way down the DC, the standard route and they said that the route hasn't been written up for over 6 weeks, and it was in good condition. TTT [ 07-21-2002, 09:54 PM: Message edited by: To The Top ]
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Black Helos here too in WSeattle. The Marmots are taking over here too, and Tex I will send you some $ via a OBE later. We can make this happen, the rodents will over take. TTT
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quote: Originally posted by Fairweather: Bicyclists=Tele Skiers.....arrogant, holier-than-thou, snobs. Now that is just stupid.
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quote: Originally posted by Dave Schuldt: We havn't been ther in a while. TTT where have you been? Sweden, hiked the Kungsleden trail and climbed Kebnekiase, the tallest and least technical mountain in Sweden in Pacific NW like conditions, and sampling local beer. TTT
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Alki!?! Swedish Chef, check your Personal Messages. The Alki, cheap food and microbrews with easy acess off I-5 Bill [ 07-14-2002, 11:33 PM: Message edited by: To The Top ]
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It seemed like a bad press dream in the making. We heard not one party, or two, but up to three parties (one on the Emmons). Two helos searching, people talking of 6 to 9 climbers that tumbled into crevasses. It was all a false alarm. Absolutly nothing. We spoke to the one of the only teams that where ahead of the roadblock for the accident, and they had no idea of anyone falling or the possiblilty of 2 or 3 teams going down. The rangers and RMI confirmed it was false later. TTT
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My first peak, was after seeing Twin Peaks was Mt Si. After wondering where such a remarkable mountain on my TV was, and living in Issaquah at the time I was jazzed to hear it was in my back yard. Once the plan was set to climb such a impressive mountain, I realized that I had to have a team and gear setup. I went to many garage sales at REI, looking around at other shops for deals, and even bought some gear online. Done Next I had to find someone else who would do such a climb, and I ran into a guy training on Tiger Mtn in plastics, for Si. Gear and team set we headed off to Si, and a addiction was born. No really it was McClelan Peak, going up a snow field to the summit, and when turned around was freaked out by the exposure. My knees shook for days. Then I went back, now that was born for me. TTT [ 07-14-2002, 10:29 PM: Message edited by: To The Top ]
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Rush Limbaugh ? trad or sport climber?
To_The_Top replied to Dennis_Harmon's topic in Climber's Board
Armchair climber with remote, complete with Busch beer and fried porkrinds. -
I spotted Eddie E., Joekenia (good food, before the sand) and Treadtramp too, and Jeff the Lurker (remember the Alki with Saki).
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Left at 10:59 as the man rolled through with the mega phone.....Great night for sure, until the cops stopped by and asked several to dump out the brews...Great idea to have a pubclub there, and smores...ummmmm
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Coleman Deming route Sunday: The new snow for now was bonded pretty well and we couldnt make it slide much on the ice layer. Yes it is true there is a good amount of new snow, but the firm layer below made for good stepping and no snowshoes needed. The route wandered a bit, but the real pain was the wind. Some said 60mph, and the blowing snow made for an unconfortable climb for those that went on, and several parties had a good weather window, but mainly the later climbers. It was feirce up there, but calmed down for late morning until late afternoon summits. Surprisingly very little avi action there. TTT
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Darn, a bad season start.
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Page top......if I was a Gaper No wait I am stoned. I see two Panthers attacking a Mountainman.
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Fairweather, My neighbor is one of the crew for the Chinook helos and they require training time and they use a rescue on Rainier (they are the copters that can go that high) as part of the time allocated for that purpose. Plus they like having a mission rather than just going out and flying around. So yes from a budget point of view it is a reallocated issue, which means that if they report more for a rescue, it means less in the training amount on budget. Either way, they like it and consider a climber rescue or a lost hunter as learning, not like they are called out on a special run to help someone with a cell phone and causing overtime. I think that what is reported as a cost for a rescue is not a real cost, except if the helocopter crashes, but then again didnt a Coast Guard boat crash at La Push trying to recover a fishing boat a year or two back? TTT
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BREAKING NEWS: Hikers stuck in crevasse on Mt. Hood
To_The_Top replied to scot'teryx's topic in Spray
Hey Polishedboob Why dont you wait until the funerals are finished before you start your troll, like after the facts start rolling in. Dont assume because it makes a ass outta U.......wait time to grab a beer. -
quote: Originally posted by RedMonk: i dont think that radios and cell phones are bad...i just think that it must be understood that ability comes first and foresmost....no cell phone in teh world will save you if you are caught on the summit and didn't read the weather correctly.... people dont understand this...and that is what i am pointing out.... i dont doubt that this technology is usefull.... but know your stuff.... I agree that the best way to handle this is beforehand reading weather and avi forcasts as opposed to reacting to the situation after it happens, which may be too late. For us it was an experimental use of radios, and plus a cell phone can also be used (in a friends case) to tell others that you are running late, dont send help. There is another side to the whole "come get me" attitude. Many uses for this medium, not just help me out. TTT [ 05-31-2002, 10:33 PM: Message edited by: To The Top ]
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I have one of those Motorola radios that was instumental in a rescue I was involved with, and once out of treeline we picked up many surrounding conversations about what to bring to the BBQ, where who was meeting who, in our instance it was non life threatening and someone got ahold of the rangers and the rangers called us. It was a success as far as the rangers helping us. Sorry for the loss to anyone involved on either peak. Ps I never rope up for the Bshrund on Hood and end run it. I would think on Rainier it would work there too. One thing to point out is the Rainier group climbed the route, and it was weather that got them, not inability to climb the route. TTT
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Yuck We cancelled our climb on Rainier due to the weather, probably hard if you come from outta town. Wish to never read news like this. It sounded like the snow cave collapsed, makes me remember some friends stuck up there a few years ago for 10 days. TTT
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I heard on the news that Highway 20 was closed due to an avalanche at milepost 167, just west of Washington Pass. There was a mention that a vehicle may have been caught in the 30' deep 100' wide slide, that may have the highway closed for sometime. Bummer, I almost went there today. TTT
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PP If you took time to look at trailheads for climbs around here you will see beater Subarus, old japanese cars and maybe a token Explorer. At St Hell I had the pleasure of skiing down while others (with car keys) walked down, so I waited a long time to see things. I saw way too many new Cummins Ram Trucks with turbo sleds in trailers, talk about $900 skis, well they had multi grand sleds with them, and they didnt have to pay one cent, smoked out a lot of people, and added to a ton of noise on the mountain. Most climbers I know are living paycheck to paycheck with extras going to climbing gear when on sale or buying overseas. I pay for the stadiums in Seattle while I couldnt care less who is playing who, other than planning my commute around these events. It is not fair that we have to pay extra, and have less impact than others. TTT
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You might be a Gaper if..... -You where the first one in the Hut on that fateful saturday. -You know Gaper #2 -You post on a thread and are happy about a page top -Crash head first when BC skiing TTT
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Merek Good Job They should add a section for climbers from the cascade area climbing outside of the country. Check your PM's. TTT
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I think it depends what time of the year you go. If early season Hannagen pass offers a good protected bivi, with a steep climbers trail the next day, and once up on the mountain it is clear with few crevasses to Ruth, and the traverse to Icy looks nice with only a mile between the two peaks. There is some scrambling to the summit of Icy (never done it) but looks straight forward. Then back to the pass for the next night. I have heard of it done in a day under prime conditions, the road to the trailhead if it is drivable. Nice views and a nice ski tour. Have fun! I haven't been there in early season. TTT
