fredrogers

Better a golden shower than a mud-falcon.

Ditto Givler's. One of my favorites in the Icicle. Go early. Bathtub Dome is also a great place to spend a day- from 1st to 3rd tier is awesome. I did all the bolted routes (thought the lower was maybe 5.7 and the upper 5.9) and the 5.7 chimney on the 2nd tier, then "Just Ducky" on the third tier with TimL. Just Ducky is a full ropelength of 5.8+ with some route finding challenges (shit, I followed, what do I know?). Bring lots of small to mid-sized TCUS for that route (up to .75"), double slings and 2 ropes to rap. Up and to the right of that, Condor Buttress will go at 5.8 if you yard on the closely spaced bolts at the 2 or 3 cruxes. There are also some good 2 pitch routes at the Pearly Gates that go at or around 5.8. Both slab and crack. Climbing up to 5.7 will allow you to TR a lot of stuff there too. Do a search here or check Smoot's site and you can find info about that crag. Cocaine Connection on Icicle Buttress is a way fun 5.7, but does not meet the "off the road" criteria. Go do the three pitches on BOB Wall that are 5.8 or less and you've made a day of it. Planet of the 8's is also a good spot- although I have only done 2 of the three routes there (the rightmost route seemed "stiff" for a 5.8+, but that was also my second season of climbing).

Working sucks more and harder, but it will not swallow and wants to kiss you afterward. Enjoy school while you can.

To good home. Black metal, queen size. You fetch from Ballard. PM or email db_climbz@hotmail.com if interested.

Tim you've had more than your fair share of "incidents"... Here's another story: Right when I started climbing, I headed up to Castle Rock with my friend "Bill" and a friend of his roommates, Mike, who wanted to go climbing that day. Bill was leading up the chimney pitch of Midway, with me belaying and Mike tied in to the end of rope. Bill made the step across to the the top of Jello tower and we hear this "Uh-oh." Bill the screams "off-belay" and something else we can't hear. We yell back up "Belay off" and he screams again, but we still can't understand him. Then his head pops over the edge and he screams "Untie from the fucking rope! Untie from the fucking rope! I'm fucking touching cloth here and need to rap fucking off! Do you have any fucking TP?" Mike and I duly untie from the rope, while laughing at Bill's predicament. He raps down so fast he gives him self a major rope burn on his right hand, cleans the rope out of his device and comes running over to me to collect the three shreds of TP I had in my pack. He then ran around the North side of Jello Tower to release the turtle. Not more than 2 minutes later a large, extended family of Asians rounds the corner, followed not more than a minute or two later by two French Canadian guys. They round the corner and see us at the base of Midway and ask us if we're going to climb it. We answer in the affirmative, but tell them we're waiting for our friend. "Oh, the guy around the corner, in the bushes with his pants down around his ankles?" they ask. We laugh and answer yes. Bill comes back around the corner with a much relieved look on his face, but is slightly sheepish because his gasto-intestinal distress was witnessed by no fewer than 9 people. Turns out all he had for breakfast that morning was some peaches, coffee and a couple of smokes, which apparently primed his pump really well. After that day, his new nickname was "Peaches."

My bad. Still, saving $14 is worth it. And if you think it's a shitty deal, don't buy them, dickwad. Pretty simple don't ya think?

I earned them by donating my time, WTF do you care? Go to Stevens and have yourself a merry fucking time. Wait, I'll trade you those vouchers for your POS North Face tent.

FWIW- I picked up a 10MM, 60M Mammut "Promo" rope with a nifty, overly logoed rope bag from REI for $90 yesterday ($50 off). Feels like it has a nice hand. They had 3 left on the floor.

To corroborate rat's post, I talked with some one in Mazama this morning. Their expectation was that the road would open tomorrow or Saturday.

Toast- Park directly across from 8-mile campground's entrance. You can either warm up on X-y Cracks- 5.5 (bring 2 3" pieces), 5.7 and a bolted .10 variation, or find the trail and walk around the top of X-Y cracks. The first crag on the right is J-Y crag (a good excerise in sandy flaring cracks). Continue N/NE on any of the various trails, angling up hill. You may lose the trail in a small talus field, but I believe there were cairns the last time we were up there, pick up the trail on the other side and follow it uphill to the buttress. The main (most eroded) trail takes you to the base of the (former) Tree Route- now marked by a blackened stump just up from the base. Mr. and Mrs. Tremendous are on another part of the buttress up and climbers right from the Tree Route. We did 2 pitches. I made the mistake of grovelling up the dirty chimney/flake to start- it's better if you tackle the crack to the right of it and gain the buttress that way- maybe 5.6?. We did one more pitch up a groove to a wide, boot-buffed crack which is never harder than 5.4. If I recall correctly, it started raining as I followed Tim up the second pitch so we bailed after that. I think it was Cavey or Erik who mentioned something about additional pitches above. Bring shoes for the walk off. I did it in my rock shoes and regretted it.

They're both fun- jut in different ways. Ice climbing is more along the lines of Bubba Blanchard (or was it Twight?) who said "it doesn't have to be fun to be fun." No fine print on the vouchers whatsoever. Jeeze. I would never do anything illegal. Thanks for helping me keep this thread at the top of the list, though. And Tim, you will continue to get shit for selling your board.

Actually, with any luck I'll be down at Smif rox from Tuesday through the weekend with TimL. However, Mr. L decided to sell his snowboard to buy ice climbering tools , so we'll just be cragging.

Timmay- toeing that company line well, my man. All kidding aside, I have a special spot in my heart for Bachy, but not the $100 in gas it would take to get there from Seattle.

Umm, doesn't say non-transferable, dude. Just non-refundable.

Okay, I know some one is going to Crystal this weekend. How's $30 each sound...

Check your math, dude. Tickets are $48. Probably be $50 or more next year. How's $30 each sound?

I'd recommend PMI or Maxim (the best I've owned) ropes. The one Bluewater I bought sucked. Heavy, sheath wore quickly and had a crappy hand (okay Trask, insert joke here). But it was the right price when I bought it. You will want two ropes, one for for climbing and one for glacier travel. I suggest 10.2MM (or smaller)x 60M, bi-colored for a climbing rope. Dry treatment wears off sooner or later, so if you're not going to be using it on glaciers, is it worth the extra $$? A 30M, 9MM or 9.8MM dry rope will work for glaciers and very moderate alpine rock (think Challenger). A lot lighter and worth having. Get a buddy to split the cost of the glacier rope or buy a remnant rope (usually the ends of a spool sold either by a shop or manufacturer). Check this web site for examples: http://www.gx.starvedrockoutfitters.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=G&Category_Code=SR

Just in case you missed it in the yard sale: Have three ticket vouchers to Crystal that I earned working the tele races that I'd like to sell. Good through Dec. 21 of this year. Take all three for $100 (savings of $44) or $35 each (save $13). PM or email db_climbz@hotmail.com

Have three ticket vouchers to Crystal that I earned working the tele races that I'd like to sell. Good through Dec. 21 of this year. Take all three for $100 (savings of $44) or $35 each (save $13). PM or email db_climbz@hotmail.com

Celestial Groove at the Pearly Gates in LW Jazzy Document on Duty Dome in LW Penny Lane in Squamish

Boo fricken hoo, Dutch hater. I got a whole bag of "shzzzppth" for ya. And, of course, congrats on the new job...

That's a look I'd like to see.

You can aslo try here: http://www.fs.fed.us/gpnf/recreation2002/current/roads-report.shtml Or call the ranger station. One should take their reports with a grain of salt...

Sheesh. Next thing we know he'll be living under a truck at the Grasslands and sporting dreads. Did he send Crossfire? Inquring minds want to know if it was chains or a 60' "Whooper"

Not to mention from serious rounds of bong hits...