freeclimb9

the japanese and british have climbing drainages for years (waterfalls and gullies, respectively). Follow your muse.

One summer evening, during a violent thunderstorm, a mother was tucking her small boy into bed. She was about to turn off the light when he asked with a tremor in his voice, "Mommy, will you sleep with me tonight?" The mother smiled and gave him a reassuring hug. "I can't dear," she said, "I have to sleep with Daddy." A long silence was broken at last by a shaken little voice saying, "The big sissy."

ask me if I'm an orange.

external music tends to make the voices in my head start singing more loudly

Taking inspiration from the Canadian Dickhead of the Year contest , I've got a few nominees for a broader geographic area Dickhead of the Year contest: (I'll avoid some of the more obvious choices) Ryan McPherson, Zachary Bubeck, Daniel J. Tanner, and Michael Slyman: the Bumfight Krew who've profited from the exploitation videos "Bumfights" 1 and 2. Justin Timberlake: for making and performing a song about the Fine he'd been banging that walked away. Pete Townsend: for doing "research".

Did Karl Rove really say "As people do better, they start voting like Republicans... ...unless they have too much education and vote Democratic, which proves there can be too much of a good thing" ?

what other myths can you come up with? are they true because they're untruths that have been propagated via email for endless iterations over the last 11 months?

not the only hypocrisy coming out of the Whitest House.

A bugaboo, or thin lost arrow, or a baby angle will work in many situations (whacking in a pin sandwiched next to a nut will work in wider cracks if the dire need arises. Of course, it's all route dependent). A hammer on an ice tool works well enough. Any rime, or verglas on rock will limit the ability of passive, or camming, pro to hold even body weight. I have no ethical problems with whacking in a pin in such situations. Especially given that ice-wedging will probably be in strong effect, and pin-damage will disappear with the fast erosion.

with the relatively low amount of snow this year to simplify and speed the approach (skis, or snowshoes might not be needed), might be a good time for an ascent of the north ridge of Pfeifferhorn.

here's a link to the climate history of nearby Ephrata.

what are your issues?

That hold on the left? Yea, it's off route. You can't touch it. No, it's not contrived.

Floyd fell while riding on Saturday. Actually broke the top of his femur. A few Ti screws put him back together. It's a blow to the USPS cycling team, for sure. But Floyd may still be able to race by May. Yea, I know he's not a climber.

Tecnica Altitude Plus boots aren't leather. But they are great boots for me. Many manufacturers make great boots. Get the ones that fit.

I avoid the u-scan lines after several bad experiences. Without fail, I screw something up in the process (put it in the bag too early, or too late, etc.). I don't like to feel like an idiot when I spend money.

cat fight!

The idea behind GU, Gatorade, Powerbar, etc., and similar products, is that by keeping blood glucose levels elevated, muscle glycogen gets replenished faster. This is supported by many studies. GU is basically just a glucose polymer blend. You don't become physically reliant on such a product, but maybe psychologically so. If you're doing fine physically, but your partners are hating it unless they're constantly refueling, maybe you're just in much better shape?

No. I won't ask for details of your glorious trip in which you supplied hard currency to a regime that is starving its own populace. In other words, no somos el mismo, cabron.

or Kurdish, or Armenian, or Sami? Stupid questions, all. And the stupid answer is increased Park Fees.

BD standard prophets with tool loops = never gripping your tools as daggers.

cracked, I don't put the tool through the loop. I haven't cut it off yet, though.

Yea, it'll turn inside out. But then the release tab would be pinned under straps.

Your diet could be described as "ketogenic". It was demonstrated in a study ('The Human Metabolic Response to Chronic Ketosis without Caloric Restriction: Preservation of Submaximal Exercise Capability with Reduced Carbohydrate Oxidation,' Metabolism, vol. 32 (8), pp. 769-776, 1983) that a low-carb diet increased an athlete's ability to metabolize fat. No increase in performance was noted, however. "In short, high-fat diets conserve carbohydrate, which is good, but lead to little carbohydrate storage, which can be very bad." However, if your exertion load is sub-maximal (about 60% of max VO2, or less), that's not "very bad". Just don't expect to be able to climb at, or near, your lactate threshold for long periods without carbohydrate supplementation. There's no question that the fat fuel tank of the human body is much bigger than the glycogen reserve. Here are some quotes from pponline.co.uk: "Various methods have been used to try and make the body more efficient at using fat and therefore boost performance by conserving the body's glycogen and intramuscular triglyceride stores. These have included: 1 extreme diets consisting predominantly of fats, a nutritional strategy which has been successful with rats but has shown no performance benefit in humans 2 increasing the percentage of fat ingested in the diet, which has been recommended in some triathlon magazines. This is not thought to result in an improvement in performance, and it probably has other, negative health implications 3 ingesting fat intravenously. This method has been employed in professional cycling." BTW, a carb-rich diet was first shown to be beneficial to endurance athletes in 1939, and has been repeatedly confirmed. The question becomes one of "at what exertion level to you want to climb"?

here's a photo of the Robo: Though it's not entirely clear from the image, the hanging tab --to be pulled with the teeth for releasing the leash-- is more easily reached when on the left hand than when on the right. I like to place pro with my right hand. So, my fix has been to use a Grivel leash that is much like the BD Lockdown, or the one on the DMM Fly. But that type of leash isn't my ideal since it comes off easily when unweighted (I wouldn't want to drop a tool and have it continue falling). Maybe I'll just go back to a slider style leash.