Jens

I have found the Mt.Kent and Abiel Peak "ice" routes to be more exercises in tree "schwacking".

I have stayed at the Reynolds and Mile0 so far this year. Mile 0= cheap Reynolds= Raised their rates a few years ago but it is above the bar! 4 pines= nicest rooms in town INMHO but they are more expensive than Mile0. I miss the old days 15 years ago when the Reynolds was 11 dollars US a night (double occupancy and a really strong US dollar) The Reynolds Pub/ restaurant has a conditions log book. With a really cold winter, the chamber of commerce could do an ice park in town. The town is hurting for ice climbers this year. When fat, for those climbing at the harder grades, Lillooet is better than 99% of the US including Colorado, Wyoming, and Montana. Who is going to repeat the the Theft?

Climbed up their yesterday with DougH. It was quite good. It may warm up for about 48 hrs. but I think temps are going to stay cold enough that stuff is going to keep growing. The North face of Snoqualmie routes should be good to go very soon.

How long is the drive and approach time from Seattle?

Allez!

The visiting Millet sponsored frenchman who snuffed out his cigarette under his crampons and then styled up the route that I just bailed off when I was a young lad.

My record is 4hours 30 minutes once from Seattle in winter. Bigger, Badder, and Radder than Montana. The Theft can look more impressive than the Trophy Wall on Rundle. About 6F Sunday morning last week at the parking lot.

Tons of fun was had by all!

Congrats! It looks thin and hard.

H202 was my first steep ice lead after ditching leashes a number of years ago and in the condition it was in, it gave me a pretty savage pump. If someone ever lugged a drill out to Banks, their is some extreme mixed potential that could lure some hot shots to the Pacific Northwest (or Southwest if you're at Canuck).

Climbed Body Shop on Sunday with SummitchaserCJB, while Dane and Jesse Newman were on other routes. Both bolts at the top are loose. I finger tightened them. Did Dale place em'? The unusual water table this year is such that right now a legitimate mixed route exists right of body shop if anyone wants FA bragging rights for some chestbeating at the Reynolds Pub. Is the Marble Canyon Third Tier Movie Footage available anywhere? -------------- And Mr. Trainwreck, I'll buy you a Molson at the Reynolds if you casually style up the route. As you know, west coast ice pro and sticks are usually funky. I've been far more exasperated on some of our 5's than some rockies 6's.

Amen to that.

Hat's off to you guys for some hard work skinning. I was touring up their last week and breaking trail was a bear to say the least...... It surely kicked my butt and I didn't anywhere nearly as high as you guys.

Best laugh of the week!!!! I can see it now, some Mountaineers Club Leader over at that new mountie lodge in N.E. Seattle giving a lecture on aid climbing........

The Wayne morph pic is awesome! It looks like he is stepping OB. He must have missed the debriefing in iso. ----------------- I dented my helmet with some early season falling ice a few days ago.

Pickets and Deadmen are rarely carried by experts (except for fixing lines on expeditions and fluted ridges).

Lost a Quark ice tool in an avalanche near the base of Alpental 1 or 4- (depending on who you talk to).

Alpental 1 (or 4) depending on who you talk to - the first long slab with the short steep topout finish is in. Weekendclimber and I climbed it today as did several other parties. A donkey trail is now in. ------------------------------------------ If you find a Quark ice tool, I lost one in an avalanche that carried me a ways near the route early this morning. We couldn't find it in about 1-2 hours of digging.

I was surprised to find far less ice than I would have thought. Mostly just pencil thin stuff over rock. Lots of new snow. If you are going up the Alpental Valley at all (even on the trail) bring floatation. Lots of new snow. The trip Ended with shopping at the North Bend outlet Mall and then the gym.

Post a conditions report when you get back.

Sweet pics. The slog down the walk off with a dusting of snow sucks. Somebody want to drill some rap anchors?

Thanks for the pics. I have the old quarks with petzl grip tape above the orange grip. I don't get pumped hanging on the grip tape and have found high grip attachements annoying. Finger triggers have given my finger pain and suck for going with different glove configurations.

Stay in a casino. If you like bolted routes, check out the limestone areas- they are better than red rocks for face climbing and many are 40 minutes from the strip. Have fun!

Monkey space "spacemonkey"

You are doing lots of endurance work on jugs eh'?