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Jens

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  1. Jens

    Buck Mt.?

    Anybody mess around on the North Side of Buck Mt.? A cartographer report lists it's north aspect as one of the greatest vertical reliefs in the state. It's got some huge walls above glacier ice but the Beckey book calls the rock quality some of the worst around. Anybody have experience on the peak or photos of the North aspect? Anyone make any exploratory attempts?
  2. It looked like some 4th of July fireworks from the Muckleshoots would blast that house sized cornice. Or as the guy who was with me, chriss said, patrollers in Colorado carry dry ice piss bottles to blow em' up with. Anybody make one of them?
  3. Colin & I found the crampons low on the route and then decided to ditch them up higher. We figured we'd leave em' hanging for some soul willing to carry em' rather than jettison them.
  4. Thanks for the quick responses Are you sure guys? I could swear the pitch is at the ber most most 120 feet and I've done it 3 times.
  5. I didn't read the whole thread but I think it is an awesome accomplishment she did. And we have to congratulate a fellow WA climber. ____________________ As a sidenote: What happened to that Englishman on Everest this year who had recently had quadrupple bypass heart surgery and told the climbing press that he was terrified of heights? Did he summit?
  6. Good luck with that....... I'd join ya' but I'm climbing outside only right now. I have only been there 3-4 times this year so far, but have had some of the worst luck of anywhere trying to get an impromptu belayer at that place (worst I've seen in WA). No body seems to want to use the lead room or needs a partner. Instead they'd rather just stare at boulder problems.--nice gym and nice employees though.
  7. The moves on the higher cliffs are OK but the place has definite potential for some awesome climbing photography.
  8. Anyone know if you can easlily rap off the split pilar with a single 70m cord? I've cimbed the grand wall route but never tried to rap off the pillar with a single cord.
  9. I'm not sure about 38, but at other areas where I have opened routes, dudes will often be a hanger or to short to finish their project for the weekend. They simply grab a hanger on one of their old routes and throw it on the new project with the intention of replacing it in a week or two. Unfortunately they never get replaced. __ I just visited that area above the gun show slab a couple of weeks ago. The routes are very nice and well done. It is a great addition however the ratings on the Y.D.S.are the softest in U.S.?
  10. Thats a shame they were stolen. I was out there last weekend and they were intact. It's a great beginer area. The bolts are excellent to teach a fledging leader even if all the routes go fine with just a crash pad to a veteran. The bolts on the crack route should come down though. ___
  11. Thanks for the speedy reply and tips. Anbody else have anything to contribute?
  12. I debated which forum to put this in. ____________ This question is for others that surf this website using a slow dial-up connection (like I do): Has anyone found anything to tweak in the preferences or elsewhere to speed up viewing? I've tinkered with quite a few things but cc really seems slower. Or at least tons slower than a year ago. Can I disable the adds? Is there anyway I can get a preview bubble to give me the first 2 sentences of what a thread is about without loading the thread? I don't get to read as many posts anymore because of speed issues. Anyone have any tips? Anything at all to speed up viewing?
  13. That's the funniest thing I've heard all week! ---------------- A college buddy of mine had the words "slower traffic keep right" written with huge reflective tape backwards (like on the ambulances) on the front of his car ski rack. He'd drive over 100 most days of the week. ----------- Not to offend anyone, but It is my experience that middle aged women with short hair driving subarus tend to be the worst offenders. Although Scandinavians like myself are notoriously bad drivers! ------ The stretch where I-5 between Seattle and Portland goes down to 2 lanes is really bad! --------
  14. Anybody know what routes those picure-posters are in the entry-way to the Bellevue Marmot store? They've been up for quite a while, and I'm not sure if they are still up as I haven't been in there in a while. I asked an employee once but he said he didn't know. The ice the bearded climber is on looks just like the upper sections of Drury Falls. Is the rock close-up facial shot taken on Rude Boys at Smith?
  15. I've got a super warm Marmot Down Parka that is really burly with a feathered friends down hood sewn on. It's got a couple of white paint splashes on it but it is in good shape. I wore it to the summit of Denali without even a shiver. It's to warm for WA and my wife won't ever let me go to Asia. It's yours for $110.
  16. On a recent trip I noticed a cabin off the Cascade River Road (Near it's end) I went in. The cabin was structuraly sound, had intact windows, and a door that was unlocked. Anybody know the story on it? Even though I'm sure thae cabing is no secret, I don't want to reveal the location so it doesn't become a meth lab or a place for squatters like some other abandonded cabins in the foothills of the north cascades. __ I stumbled into another cabin on the flanks of Johannesburg after descending the south face. The area must have quite a history? Any history gurus?
  17. Just recently revisited smith after not climbing at the place since the early 90's except for one short stop. A lot has changed and a lot is the same! Changed: *cleaner and more shitters *more hikers *nicer trails *the grasslands is now referred to by everyone as skull hollow. *more climbers- but fewer getting on hard routes *Bend is way bigger! Is this place growing by the minute? *More routes ( a lot of new moderates) * Redpoint in a new building * Rockhard looked slow or closed? That place used to be the coolest spot for good gear and sweet deals and had areally cool feel to it. I hope it's still open! A lot of history with that place. * More women climbing * Classics are more poilshed and slick * Less sage * More cars, but license plates indicate less road trippers * Lots of bouldering going on * Fewer people climbing crack routes * Fewer anoerexic looking climbers * Locals content to run laps all day long on magic light and overboard * Fewer dog issues (fights, barking etc.) * Cleaner-Less trash All and all, a kick ass place to climb.
  18. Any tips on how to remove all the pits/pills/ball-ups or whatever you call em's that have developed all over my older schoeller pants? I don't really give a rat's a** but I occasionally wear them at lift areas or at for example a slopeside bar in whistler village. __________________ What did Twight say in his book?...Retire your coat when the colors are out of fashion!!!
  19. The local drugstore stoped carrying my unpackaged Johnson & Johnson tape. I haven't seen it for sale anywhere else in King County. Anybody see it for sale anywhere? Any chain stores? Every other brand of tape I've ever tried sucks bad in my opinion. I don't usually tape my hands, I just use it for flapper repair, or the odd injury here and there. Nobody seems to use Tincture of Benzoin under tape anymore.
  20. Maybe..??? Hand crack on North side of Marymoor Park Rock 5.9+ (if no face holds, features, or brick divots are touched with hands or feet) Finger crack to hand crack in main gravel area @ Seattle Vertical World 5.10+ (if no face holds or featuresare touched with hands or feet) I went to Redmond VW once since they opened the new room and noticed they had a new hand crack. I'm not much of a fan of UW rock.
  21. Yeah, the entire cougar mt. area has some boulders scattered in the area. Checkout the ones I mentioned above off the Renton-Issaquah highway (SR900). Also, up the wilderness peak trailhead a ways farther their may be some more potential. Also I haven't looked at the "fantastic erratic" (marked on all maps) boulder in a long time but with some scrubbing it might be OK? With enough traffic, somebody could string together a circuit.
  22. found a partner
  23. I'm looking for a partner for a plum of a route in the north cascades this Sat-Sun. Looking for someone that is fast at swinging leads on difficult mixed ground.
  24. Why do single ropes get way way more expensive the skinnier they get? Doesn't less material make for a cheaper and quicker product to make? For instance, company "X" makes a 60m 9.4mm and charges $200+ for the thing-- And it makes a 60m 10.5mm and charges $99. Especailly when both ropes are in the same line by comapny "X" and are made on the same loom. Are they just gouging us bad? __ Also what rope brand's specs on diameter run on the fat or skinny side? Ever notice that one brand of 10mm is like another brand's 10.5mm?
  25. A little bit of scrubbing is going on off SR-900 (Renton-Issaquah highway). * The boulder 10 minutes up the trail from the Wilderness peak trailhead is sporting some chalk and scrubbed holds. I've always dismissed the thing as to dirty but it looks like now it may have a few nice problems. * The boulder 10 feet off SR-900 as you descend towards Issaquah sports a problem I did a long time ago. I noticed it is sporting some new chalked holds and some more scrubbed stone. * The old "Issa-quarry" or "spy rock" at the divide is seeing more climbers than I can ever remember. Any more spots to mention anyone? Everyone bring a wire brush and contribute. With more traffic, these could be even more clean and fun.
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