mattp

Just like anyplace else, Peshasting takes some getting used to. However, the same can be said for Darrington or Index (less so for Exit 38 or Vantage, because most climbers these days train in a gym and are used to reaching for horizontal holds and tiny sidepulls and stuff, and they are used to having lots of bolts). Spend a few days at Peshastin in close succession and most people will get their feet on the ground there.

Careful there, DPS, you're putting yourself out on a limb there. Go without a bivvy bag? I have always maintained that bivvy bags were not needed most of the time - even in the dreaded frosty tent or damp snowcave or when using a tarp as shelter - and I actually deliberately bring my wet clothing into my sleeping bag in order to dry it out, but I catch nothing but flack for making such wild and irresponsible statements on this bulletin board. Keeping a down bag dry requires some attention, to be sure, but it can be done.

I think I understand your thinking there, wirlwind, but in general I'd think that if that "directional" was any good it'd be a better idea to use it as part of your anchor (I'm assuming that since you call it a "directional, it must be level with or above your belay device). If it is questionnable, I'd rather set up so I am fully braced in the direction of the ultimate pull that I am worried about, and a nearby "directional" often seems to make it clumsy hauling in the belay rope anyway.

WASHINGTON CASCADES NEAR AND WEST OF THE CREST NORTH OF STEVENS PASS... OLYMPICS... Gradually increasing danger later Thursday morning and afternoon and becoming considerable above 5000 feet and moderate below. Slightly decreasing danger Thursday night. Increasing danger again Friday remaining considerable above 5000 feet and moderate below. Gradually decreasing danger Friday night.

I can't answer your question there, ChucK. Obviously, 0" of new snow would be a better forecast. However, we are talking about a few inches a day, at relatively warm temps, and mostly with relatively moderate winds. This is not the stuff of EXTREME avalanche hazards. Will it be safe? Who knows. The avalanches from Shuksan Arm on the approach can be some of the largest in the entire State, and the North Face itself is at a perfect angle and aspect to be dangerous this very weekend. I don't mean to sound like I'm "downplaying" the danger if by that you think I'm suggesting that everybody ought to ignore an obvious potential danger - but this is not a lot of new snow for this time of year in the North Cascades. It may turn out to be just fine.

Right you are, ChucK. With this kind of weather, its a little early to rely on weather forecasts for Saturday and Sunday, but Doolittle and Knight posted about all the new snow, and my intent was to suggeset that we probably aren't going to geat a huge dump.

WEST SLOPES NORTH CASCADES AND PASSES- WEST SLOPES CENTRAL CASCADES AND PASSES- 830 AM PST THU MAR 25 2004...UPDATED TODAY...BREEZY...SNOW. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 2 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 3500 FEET. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES AROUND 40. SOUTHEAST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 25 MPH. TONIGHT...SNOW SHOWERS. SNOW ACCUMULATION OF 1 TO 2 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 2500 FEET. SOUTHWEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 15 MPH. FRIDAY...SNOW SHOWERS LIKELY. SNOW ACCUMULATION OF 1 TO 4 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 3000 FEET. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES IN THE UPPER 30S. SOUTHWEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 20 MPH. FRIDAY NIGHT...SNOW LIKELY. SNOW ACCUMULATION OF 2 TO 5 INCHES. SNOW LEVEL 2500 FEET. SOUTHWEST WIND IN THE PASSES 10 TO 15 MPH.

I believe the slot that Alex is talking about, and which Catbird calls the "hidden crack," is visible in the picture of MVS that appears just below Alex's crack about him on page 1 of this thread. It does indeed offer some sense of security here, but presents the issue of rope drag that Alex noted.

Here's the placement I've used there.

Lammy- I don't know where you were. The picture of Eric shows the "traverse" (more like a single step) from the protectable crack start to the start of the main corner, above the unprotected bouldery alternative start. He could have placed a piece of gear under the lip right in front of his face had he wanted to. No, I've never seen anybody falling off the start of the second pitch.

Best? Maybe not the longest route around, but Davis Holland-Lovin' Arms surely ranks as one of the best in the State.

Bear Mountain looks pretty damn hard to me. And Passenger on S. Early is 5.12, isn't it? Leopard could do Willis Wall or Yokum Ridge, I bet. Neither is really technically difficult unless you try to stay right on the ridgecrest on Yokum, which few parties try to do. If it is the lack of solid pro on Yokum that makes it "most difficult," I bet the same could be said (but much worse) for the Norweigian Buttresses on Index - and they were done many years ago as well.

Beta: Part One.

Here, kitty kitty.

For group camping in Leavenworth, I think, a bigger issue is the rafting groups that seem to completely take over the campgrounds in the Spring. I don't know exactly when that happens - mid April to mid June, perhaps? The Mountaineers or Boealps or whoever are not nearly so numerous and they will largely stick to two or three locations in Icicle canyon, won't they?

Doesn't TunaBoaters at Index have some kind of hard flaring wide crack on it? How 'bout that last pitch of GM (Yes, I know its only 5.9 but few people would call it "easy," me thinks)?

From Eric and Lucie's bus trip, here's Eric starting up the first pitch with pro, instead of the bouldering 20 feet of face climbing nearby. He may regret not putting a runner on that cam as he gets higher and his lead rope gets stuck in the crack he's holding with his right hand.

Here's a shot showing the pro:

Yep - it is not only greasy, but dirty or sandy also. And its all SCARY there because of that nasty overhang above your head. It is kind of odd that being UNDERNEATH that roof is so scary, but it makes that exit move awkward. Damn overhang! Canary is a great climb.

On that first pitch, I don't believe you ever have to make a move over 5.4 without pro above your waist if you want it. It is still awkward - and can be scary - at the finish, though.

On that first pitch, there is no need to do that unprotected face climbing you mention. It takes a few long runners to avoid a rope drag problem, but you can start up a corner to the left with a crack for pro. You're right that there are plenty of other climbs at Castle Rock that will scare leaders who are climbing anywhere near their limit and I agree that Saber, too, is just as scary for its grade.

Jeff Smoot does a good job of describing Canary HERE.

Most people find that move scary Lambone. You may not, because you are such a badass, but most people do. That is why Jeff Smoot offers the "beta:" bring a #4 camelot to protect this move (it goes in a large crack up and right, just before you step out onto the face). A #3 camelot goes in just as well as the #4, but it is still scary for most 5.8 leaders. You move out accross a steep face with the potential to crater on the large ledge you started on, and its probably not a leg breaker fall but it is cause for concern for an old gujy like me. You then get a secure stance around the corner, but I believe it is still six or eight feet up to that fat bolt you are tlaking about.

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