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Everything posted by mattp
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I've been up that way three times at this time of the year and never found post-holing a problem. More likely is that you might have to claw your way up that upper gully if you don't have cramppons, but even this will probably no present a major problem.
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I'd descend Liberty Ridge if you had come from Ipsut--especially on an early season climb.
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Minx, there will be a lot of us acting childish over there. Does that count?
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You need new glasses, Marylou.
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I don't think you'll find any ice there at this time of year but it might be a good ski tour.
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WA Pass is great but don't be discouraged if its storming up there or something. The Methow Valley is pretty good for a weekend of grins. I think this shot is more or less in the same location as the one above: pitch 5 of the Methow Inspiration Route (there are harder and easier climbs, some longer some only 80 feet long, nearby).
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For anybody who doesn't want to ski, there is plenty of rock climbing over there, too.
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It's not necessary, but double ropes helps on that pitch. Greg here is about to plug in again, before moving right to the start of the "blue Crack."
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Let's hope next tuesday turns out as sunny as today. Anybody up for some lawn bowling at the Climber's Picnic? Anybody know how to play?
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Are you talking about that flake, hanging out above the "Visor" at the top of the NW Face? That's one cool spot. The biggest thrill is to hook your feet over the top of it a lay on your stomach, then you have to unhook your feet and shimmy out (slightly downward) to stick your face over the edge and look straight down the face. By the way, the feature that John Muir called the "Diving Board" is down on the shoulder of the half dome, near the start of Snake Dike. He took this photo from his "diving board:" Everybody calls that flake jutting out above the Visor the "Diving Board," though, because it looks like one.
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The last two times we went to the SLOOOP it was toooooo crowded and noisy for my taste. I know, you guys like it that way, but I think it is cool if we can actually find a place to sit and there's a chance to talk and stuff. The Sloop has those huge beers, but the Alehouse is a little more comfortable, in my opinion.
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Unless you want to sew it up, you can get by with one each of camelots #1, #2 and #3 on that "blue crack," but it wouldn't hurt to have the #3.5. Most people use at least one of their larger pieces lower down on that pitch, where smaller pieces can be used instead.
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The most important tool of all is "common sense." Lots of climbers cause trouble for us when they develop climbing or bouldering areas too close to trails or roads or in obviously environmentally sensitive areas like a marshy lakeshore or something. Others practice their trade in a crowded climbing area on the weekends. If you are going to go get a klein bucket and fill it up with tools, think about what you are doing and where.
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Sorry to rain on your parade of patriotism here, but the actual fact is that I don't think we actually know whether patriotism was his reason for signing up. It would seem "obvious," perhaps, but people have lots of reasons for doing what they do and the "obvious" one is not always the correct one. I believe he did not give interviews or release writings or anywhere else explain what his reasons were. It is a compelling story, though. His death is sad, and the fact that he gave up a potentially lucrative career to join the military is quite remarkable.
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Meet potential climbing partners at Spring Picnic
mattp replied to mattp's topic in Climbing Partners
I don't know about "THE BIG EVENT," but last year we had about 50 people show up. These indluded several Seattle area climbers who wouldn't think of spraying on this website. It was fun to share some burgers, meet some new faces and watch slides. Many climbers exchanged contact information and later hooked up for climbs as a result. As I've noted on my flier, there used to be an event called the "Climber's Picnic" many years ago. It was held in this same location, for several years in a row, until discontinued fifteen years ago or maybe twenty. As we are holding this year's event in the old location and there is lawn bowling nearby, maybe we can get some of the "old guard" to show up. -
Meet potential climbing partners at Spring Picnic
mattp replied to mattp's topic in Climbing Partners
EVENT MOVED!!!!!! -
No. We have to move the event to Woodland Park, near Greenlake. Otherwise, same program. Picnic and slides.
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You can download Clint Cummins' guidebook at this site. Darryl's book is better, but if you just want to visit the place once, the old Cummins book will serve just fine.
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As noted last week, Nason Ridge has some good stuff. You'll have to carry your skis up the bare lower slopes and the transition from dirt to skiing may be both bushy and have bad snow. For a shorter and easier trip, head up Skyline Ridge directly accross the street from the ski area. My guess (guess only) is that the approach/depproach for Jim Hill is starting to get to be a pain in the neck with tne lower snowpack melting off.
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There's also a map that shows the commonly used route. It is a large display map; I've got it at home. I don't remember who published it.
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It has been done and written about many times. A bit of research in the Mountaineers' library ought to get you some pretty good info.
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As of Sunday, 4/18, the road was blocked by snow several miles from there -- about a mile or so before the turnoff at Beverly Creek. Some high clearance 4x4's were getting through the snow patches there and driving further up the road, but somebody in a Subaru had done this at some point and ended up having to leave their car behind. On the way out, we picked up somebody who had driven over a firm snow patch on the road toward Navaho Peak, early in the morning, and then returned to find out they couldn't get back out. I'm sure their tow bill was not small. The woman answering the phone at the Cle Elum ranger station was right on with accurate information when I called on Friday, 4/16.
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Not only a kook, but he doesn't know what he's talking about. I've had Marmot mismount bindings before. In fact, they failed to tap the hole on my skis with a metal topsheet, so they delaminated the first time I skied on them. And then I had some "customer service issues" when I went back and complained. Inspite of the fact that the problem was obviously THEIR fault, they made me wait a month while they got a replacement pair from the distributor instead of setting me up with another pair of skis from their stock.
