mattp

OK, master. I understand that if a shoe fits slopily, it isn't going to perform very well. Please tell me more.

Nope, I didn't say that at all. I said they did not roll off small edges the way that my unidentified 5.10 shoes do but yes, in fact they DO have more side to side rigidity. Want to come over to my house and squeeze them yourself? What's with the attitude here?

I'm not sure what your point is, RuMr. IF you mean to say that people place way too much emphasis on getting just the right gear, I agree. Hell, I've done some of my hardest sport climbs ever in Kaukulator's and what are (to me) big technical ice climbs with an ice axe and alpine hammer. But if you are suggesting that the rubber never makes a difference, or that one shoe is always just as good as another if they fit properly, I think it is YOU that is suffering from operator error - you're not using your equipment to its best advantage.

Yup, they did. My 5.10's have virtually no side-to-side rigidity and simply roll up and off small edges. As I said, I don't know the model name. (Like I said, though, I don't climb the highly technical stuff, so it is rare that I am trying to stand on micro edges or put my big toe in a tiny pocket, but I do find a shoe that has nearly zero performance on edged to be frustrating. Climbing on Icicle Creek slabs (mostly on tiny edges) last week, I could only smear everything and it felt like a serious limitation.

Maybe I'm a sucker for marketing, RuMr, but it does seem to me that my 5.10's stick to slabs better than my old sportiva mytho's ever did, though the latter edged much better.

Thanks! We don't want no stinking bugs so maybe this weekend's weather forecast is just right! A little thunder and lightning? No problem.

The Galileo has, I'm told, a "more aggressive" heal box. I'm not sure "more aggressive" is better -- I've had some shoes that really cut into my heal and made me miserable and I was actually eying a pair of the "trad masters" with this issue in mind. I realize those are not intended for highly technical edging like the Galileo, but has anybody tried the various shoes enough to note how much the different models actually perform differently apart from how they are marketed? I'm looking for something that edges better than the highly flexible 5.10 shoes that I currently use (I can't remember the model) and I assume this means I want a stiffer sole (side to side) but I don't climb seriously technical stuff and I don't think I need to have something that hurts all the time. Does the new rubber stick any better? I do a lot of slab climbing and I'm hoping to have something that edges and smears well.

I'm considering takin a niece and nephew up The Bell, and I'm wondering about two things: (1) has the snow melted from approaches in the area, and (2) have the mosquitos kicked in yet?

The snow level is 8-11,000 feet for the next few days. Just bring your flippers or maybe the felt-soled fishing boots and you'll do fine. Nooksak is truly outstanding. It is, in my opinion, one of the coolest summits in the Cascades -- even if it isn't on Roper's 100 highest list.

I might be there with a niece and nephew later this afternoon.

Fair enough, undermind, but don't let your sense of style, or the style-nazi's on cc.com, prevent you from taking care of yourself. I wouldn't advocate buying a special hat like that one because I believe my more improvised garb actually works better, is more versatile, and also more comfortable, but you gotta admit that the guy with the Arabian cavalry hat and the giant sunglasses is pretty awesome! Wear what you want, and be sure to dress in red for the photo's, but be sensible. Hell: shorts over polypro are actually a damn practical way to dress for lots of mountaineering around here, but if you read this site you "won't be caught dead in 'em." Gaitors have been known to help, too. For a day trip, I would use sunscreen. If you are going to spend several days successively on a glacier in the sun, you'll have to be pretty diligent about the screen to avoid getting fried if you're like me. I have better success keeping covered.

I havn't been there recently, but June has typically been the maximum law enforcement month at Golden Gardens because of all the High School graduation parties and other folks, like you, who just can't stand to see an early summer evening go by without celebrating. My bet is they get a fair number of police calls from people at the park, along with calls from the neighbors (even though nobody actually lives very close). If you are going to meet folks there, it'd be good to have some way of identifying each other or, as happened last time we had a pub club there, some folks may never find the other folks. I'd be game but I think I'm entertaining some visiting family tomorrow night. Have fun.

If you are going to spend multiple days on a glacier, I'd consider wearing a turban. I use a triangular bandage tucked under a ball cap. It'll cover your neck and ears and forhead if you just let it hang, or you can tie it under your chin, babushka style, and it'll close off much of the sun to your face as well.

The pagans probably know what day is technically the solstice. The Seattle police and the rest of us may not.

There have been some incredible celebrations at Golden Gardens on a Summer Solstice in the past. On year about eight or ten years ago it was shoulder to shoulder on the entire beach - and there must have been 50+ fires, with jugglers, drummers, and flame swallowers everywere. The City has clamped down on that business substantially, though, and I think currently they may be moving the fire pits around or something and it seems to me that I read in the paper that NO fires are allowed presently. There will still probably be lots of poelple there, on the Solstice. It could be anything from a rock festival atmosphere to a highly policed and tamer gathering, but I wouldn't expect to just casually show up at Golden Gardens and have a campfire tomorrow night.

Phil doesn't have Mt. Si Phil's Web Cam Map DOT doesn't appear to have Mt. Si. Google turned up this: web page

I was at the REI mothership yesterday, and they were out of shoelaces. "We're changing over our stock to a new line, and all the old ones were on sale. You can buy some cord down in repairs, though." It must not be shoelace season.

Sorry to miss you guys. Maybe next time.

No question you are right about that, Enemy. However, the degree to which these guys are manipulating the press and the public is truly staggering. And there is evidence which I would call "proof" of it all over the place. This is WAY more extensive and much more serious than a small team of burglars breaking into the democratic campaign headquarters to spy on election strategy or a presidential lie about a blow job.

Did anybody ever see this? seriously damaging information about Bush This was published just before the election, but I don't think it got much press. Is it possible that Bush's team managed to bury it?

Some of my buddies who do a lot hof hang time swear by their alpine bod harnesses. I think it depends on how it fits your body.

You missed his point, Mattm. TomTom simply cut and pasted Glasgow's rant from the Liberty Crack thread.

Point well taken, RBW. I think that in the case of that Beacon incident, though, there may have been some speculation about whether it could have been falconers rather than climbers. Does anybody know who actually did it?

I think a pair of ascenders per climber is fairly standard, Mr. Fox. Yes, you could leave one pair behind if you are not going to be doing any hauling and if you are not going to fix any ropes.

yesterday's thread Gary_Yngve wrote: