Bronco

cool. I'll go harass him today if he's still there.

Once again you have displayed your Canadian arrogance. Dolomite tower is not a peak in itself any more than Grizzy is a legitimate peak. Even if it was, I'm pretty sure theres a 3rd or 4th class ramp leading to the summit.

I missed something, what route are you talking about?

Dan: I don't think you'll be in any less trouble with the rangers as opposed to being roped up with a team without a permit. If I were contemplating a solo shot up the DC at this time in the season I'd be a lot more concerned about climbing below and behind 200 gumby climbers. Try to get on the route ahead of everybody else to avoid climber induced rockfall at least on the way up. You'll have to take your chances on the way down. Have fun.

...and post a Trip Report!

you bet! pretty handy for when you have those boogs that wont come out, only push in deeper.

I see that stuff all over the place in the sub alpine areas, especially near old mining claims. I always like to tell my companions "hells bells, it looks like someone just stripped themself nekid and run off into the woods screamin" they usually roll their eyes. After it get's dark they succumb to my coments like "hey, didja hear that?...Yeah, maybe it was nuthin, just sounded like a grown man screamin is all, HEY WHATS THAT IN THE BUSHES!!?" heh heh, it's fun. Especially with GregW, he just starts blasting into the brush whith his gack.

nice avatar! Herb Staley says, "The West Butte presented a vast forest of lava rock in various stage of decay" Becky omminously says "9 hours from the trail, Grade III, note that this is a serious climb with technical difficulty and rockfall hazzard; the descent can be difficult." deduct a point for no brush, add a point for glacier travel. I think a Becky grade III is like a modern day IV and a Becky grade III-IV is a V! I wonder what he thinks is the toughest? Index middle peak is home to one of the only Grade VI's in the state also. What's some of you cascade hardmen think?

Dru: None of these look "hardest" from Becky's books. Nutsack Tower certainly qualifies for the hardest with the easiest route being a Becky grade III-IV, 5 hours to summit. "This mamoth rock tower is one of the most difficult and imposing summits in the Cascade Range...." Not sure how much the approach adds. Index Middle finger: "...is certainly one of the most inaccessible spots in the Cascade Range...." Easiest route is the West face, Becky Grade III-IV, 11 hours to summit. Pretty sure you can reach the summit of the middle peak via the traverse route in around 10 or 11 hours from the car as well. Either way, lotsa brush and route finding .

I strongly disagree. If Canadians retorted with "Happy Canada Day" most US teenagers would be confused as it is commonly thougth that Canada is not even a nation, just that territory to the north of us. Or they would think it's a "cool" new band or something. Only climbing nerds know what Canada is - that place you go to get good deals on climbing stuff...

Middle peak of Mt. Index.

UH DUDE, IT IS A FORD! What was it again you were doing yesterday?

yes she was

Sweet Mog Website

I've seen several around here, including one just sold down the street from my trailer house.

take the MOG and bivi in the cab. Anyway, that's a lot of water weight and you may find yourself hauling that Nozone a lot more than you think with 15 pounds of water. I guess you could drink some of it if you decide it's too much to carry. Maybe take some earplugs so your partner's whining doesen't keep you awake all night.

what's the elevation?

make the bad man/dragon stop!

Dru: If there's any chance of encountering a snow patch on the route, I'd argue you're wasting energy by hauling 6-8 litres of water up the route and no stove. Take a lightweight cannister stove and a 2l aluminum pot and carry no more than 2 litres per person. You can brew some coffee in the am that way too. If you don't encounter snow, you can suffer for a day. Take some gew and a good headlamp and climb through the night.

How hard is the climbing above the final pro on the controversial pitch? Are you above the crux? I'm relatively new to climbing but even I understand the distinction between "a fall would be bad" vs. "a fall is not likely so it doesen't matter becasue it's just phsycological danger that engineering types may worry about because there's no pro" But, I don't know what climb you're talking about in the first place so it's all spectacular speculation on my part.

More action pics of the MOG!

I do what I can to help my fellow climbers. What can I say?

Yeah, see if your GP will refer you to a Podiatrist, that much pain isn't normal.