Bronco

I see these on ebay about once a week. http://listings.ebay.com/pool2/plistings/endtoday/all/category30105/index.html?from=R0

We might've had to bivy without the pins! Seriously, the piton was just for fun, no need for screamers or pins. Even considering the 4 fixed pitons over 2 pitches, I don't think I'd leave the rack at home all together.

gohawks: Many people forget that Fred Becky 3rd class = normal people 4th and 5th. I climbed a 70 degree gully to the South Summit of Mt. Baring once that Becky calls "class 2". Just stick to the path of least resistance and go for it.

that's twice you've been nearly killed by a car while riding your bicycle this summer! awesome!

In other words, a long way to go for 2 pitches of 5.4.

Alrighty: On a whim, I emailed Jay friday afternoon to see if he wanted to do some shwacking saturday. He did so we agreed to meet at my house the next am. We left the truck at 7:30am, rode bikes to the town of Monte Cristo, unnecesarily riding through the Sauk river, (the first bridge is good, it's at the second bridge you must cross through, dummy ). Jay and I hiked up the trial up to Glacier basin and admired all the water falls and potential for ice climbing if not for the super dooper avalanche terrain. Jay re-enacted several scenes from "Jay and Silent Bob Strike Back". He does a fair impersenation of the character Jay, go figure. We also detected the scent of woodsmoke on the breeze and hoped it was from Darrington and not closer. The weather was clearing and we looked forward to a dry climb, as I had been rained and snowed out at the gully twice already. We clawed up through the choss to an old mine shaft where we stash treking poles and took a quick break. Clamber up to the start of the snow finger, passing a water fall on the left through some "overhangin" 4th class dirt/choss. A small gust of wind dislodged some rocks from high on the spire, now directly above. Helmets on, we ascended the snow finger (some faster than others) on slush over very firm snow. A short "catwalk" and verticle step midway made it a little more interesting than I felt was necesary, but, the choss filled moat to either side didn't look like good upward progress would be easy so I crawled on. I found a good ploy for taking a break was to request a photo from my more fit partner Jay, and he seemed to fall for it more often than not. "Look at me Jay, better take a picture, this is sweet rock/ice/snow/dirt etc." and "Hey look at this ore". Anyway, we stashed our pons and ice axes at the top of the finger and clambered up the remaining 200' to the small col. More choss groveling ensued to the base of the route. Took a quick break, did combat with a rope that was still in the factory coil, and racked for the climb. If I were doing this again, I'd take an 8mm x 60m rope, rack of nuts, 3 cams #1, 1.5 &2, and a set of tri cams. And a couple KBs. The first 2 pitches were uneventful except for monsterous rope drag, and as Jay led up the final 30' of the last pitch he found a perfect KB placement and couldn't pass it up, we didn't want to have to bivy after all. While he was placing the pin, we noticed another party had reached the col, now directly below us. They snapped some photos and rigged a rappel to descend back down the gully. Jay shouted "I'm a little tea pot!" thus requiring a little simuclimbing to get Jay to the top. I followed, after a brief strugle with a stuck tri cam. The veiw is awesome off of the top of the spire. The rap off the top was kinda suck and lot's of loose rock made it a little more than interesting and another rap station only 30' down confused me. I did realize why the lower rap station was there when I came to the end of my rope 30' above the final rap. Both rap's are overhanging and self induced rockfall is something to keep in mind, especially when pulling the ropes. I knocked crap down all over the place. While up on the spire, I did scope out the direct descent down the "76 Gulch" and breifly entertained descending that way. Fortunatly, we didn't. We grabbed our packs and made it down to the col before the other party pulled their ropes, so we used it as a handline to hop down the gully to our ice axes. We decided to take the opposite moat than the party below us as we had aready tormented them enough with flying rock. Using an ice axe in the side of the snow finger, we were able to maintain a controlled fall/slide and ride the rubble to the water fall. We were down and out of the gully before the other party could get the next rap set up, including me stopping for a photo op. Back at the mine shaft, I discovered the thermos of coffee that had been riding in the bottom of my pack and we guzzled some caffine for the rest of the walk out. In the midst of a great story, tragedy struck and accidentally I kicked my wicked helmet off the lip of the mine. Figuring I would pick it up when we left, I forgot about it and there it lays, to this very day. On the trail out to Monte Cristo, while descending a short slab, I pretended to slip on a pine needle and do the old trick of falling flat on my back with a loud grunt. Jay found the act quite hilarious but was unable to get his camera out before I recovered. Upon returning to the bikes, I noticed my front tire was flat. No problem, that 's why we have them trusty old pumps. We screwed around pumped the tire for 1/2 hour before realizing this was a job for a patch. Well, let me tell you, this was a big hole, right at the base of the valve stem that no patch job would fix. I recalled reading about an organic solution to the problem, stuffing the tire full of ferns and weeds and moss and stuff. This was equivalent to approximatly 10lbs of air so it was slow going, but, slightly better than walking. The poor old ferns got me to within about 1 mile of the truck before turning to complete mush, so, I pushed my bike the rest of the way. Reached the truck just before dark, enjoyed a cold moose drool and headed out after chatting with a couple females planning to ride to Monte Cristo with large packs in the dark. Looked like an epic to me. Oh yeah, I got another ticket for not having a trailhead parking pass as did about 1/2 the vehicles in the lot. LOOZA! I have bought a spare tire and small pouch for carrying it with me at all times. Veggie filled tires are suck.

note the sequence where the photos are taken way below me on the snow finger then from way above me after Jay ran past me as I crawled up the slushy mess.

cool little photo album from JayB's and my trip up the spire August 9th. http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?showSlide=true&Uc=5nd7ma5.eofk8kt&Uy=-hwzx8e&Ux=1&UV=302484648758_53042699405

White BD half-dome dropped above Glacier Basin and below the gully to E. Wilman Spire, near the old mine entrance directly below the snow finger

I looked into it a few years ago and was told I'd have to start in the beginner's class and didn't want to spend a season filling the prerequisites to get into the intermediate. Is that still the case?

I attempted to get through the Libertarian Manifesto by that one guy you guys were talking about on the way to Colchuck and my head did explode!

I don't understand your first point that the bolts are for saftey. Are you suggesting that it's ok as long as it makes a climb safer? Why not fix a line and move a jumar up as you climb? On your second point regarding the mountains, I strongly disagree. If a route is established and typically climbed without fixed protection, (Alpine or Crag), who am I to put a bolt in and "dumb it down" for the next, stronger climber than I am. I'll back off before I put a bolt in to compensate for my lack of ability to repeat a route and climb something easier. Maybe I'm just being nieve and my opinion will change with more experience. But, right now I don't see the line between why certain bolts next to cracks are acceptable and some aren't so I'm satisfied just listen and learn. I guess it's not all black and white, just pastey and gray like my belly.

What's the difference between adding belay bolts at a crack "for safety" and bolts at a crack mid pitch "for saftey". That's the paradox I guess I don't understand that maybe some of you more experienced or philosophical people can answer.

Mattp: No need for the condesending tone (or is there ). You have much more expereience than me or my friends at local route developing as well as a stellar reputation for placing bolts asthetically and necesarily, so I'll defer to your statements and quiet down. (breif explanation/excuse for my loudmouth comments) I guess being of limited experience, I have chosen to stick with the old theory of "you don't add bolts to an established route - period". I don't feel qualified to decide if there should be a bolt added here or there or anywhere and frankly, don't understand how one can decide that after climbs have been done without even belay anchors for years, to add some bolts "for safty", but, I guess I don't really have to worry about it since you won't find me bolting anything anytime soon. I was a bit overzealous in my statements above but still feel strongly about not bolting next to a gear placement, even for a belay station. Have a great afternoon.

Sounds like a good Hex placement!

Glad to hear you have a firm grasp of bolting ethics slaphappy. Many people don't. I haven't been up Davis Holland on account of my weak climbing skills so your analogy is lost on me. I don't understand the need for newly bolted belay anchors at good cracks in the first place. If the bolts have been there for a long time, that 's fine, but, I don't buy into the theory that all belay stations need to be bolted. I came up with "that crap" based on discussions with my climbing buddies and common sense. Have a good day.

If the bolts are left next to the crack, it's as if the locals are giving permission to bolt the entire crack. Those bolts had to go and I'm glad they are gone. DFA, Bolt pullers have a responsibility to minimize damage to the rock when getting rid of the offending bolts. However, any damage done is the fault of the bolter, in my humble opinion. I'd rather see scars than bolts right next to a hand crack anyday. GO PIPESWINGERS!!!

If I have to listen to you and Greg discuss this crap on an approach/drive again, my head may explode.

here's how I calculate it: moderate sweat produced - easy thighs a little rubbery at top - moderate lungs seared - steep all three - too damn steep you guys just love this nerdy stuff.

I'd opt for Adams, it should be less of a zoo than Muir and you can summit without crossing a glacier. A total newbie will be much more comfortable on this terrain. As long as you don't encounter a blizzard with a lot of blowing snow, your tent will be fine. Just remember to guy it out good and collapse it (take the poles out) when you head for the summit so it wont get caught in a gust and blow down the mountain. You can do Adams without crampons, I imagine many folks will be up there in tennis shoes this weekend. I would bring the crampons if you have them though. At least bring an ice axe each, it's helpful to have on some of the steeper slopes. Have fun!

Tommy Boy! here's an easy quote to recognize from one of my other favorites: "It's got a cop motor, a 440 cubic inch plant, it's got cop tires, cop suspensions, cop shocks. It's a model made before catalytic converters so it'll run good on regular gas. What do you say, is it the new Blues Mobile or what?"

I like just about anything by L'Amour, lost track of what I've read and what I haven't, guess I'll just re read some and start paying attention. All the Sackett novels are good

Just finished "A Chechaco in Alaska" about my wife's great uncle's adventures in Alaska at the turn of the century. Just started Jubal Sackett by Louis L'Amour I'm still 2/3rds of the way through Moby Dick by that one guy Anyone ever tell you guys you are all nurds? Those books look like the summer reading list for Evergreen College.

I have one straight shaft BP for use as a 3rd tool and I wouldn't want to climb anything verticle with it. It's a fine alpine tool, but, obvioulsy, would suck on WI. The grip is comfy. If you have real small hands, the grip might be too big.

COOL!