Bronco

8.5 hours seems pretty fast but no surprise there. Did you encounter any other traffic on route?

Trip: Mt. Goode NCNP - NE Buttress Date: 8/21/2011 Trip Report: Bonathanjarrett, Juan Sharp and I were second in line at Marblemount Ranger Station on Saturday morning when they opened the door. We obtained our permit for Goode Backcountry Saturday night, 2 Mile Camp in the Camp Creek drainage for Sunday night and we promised to hang our food. The ranger told us there would be no trees from which to hang our food where we intended to camp, so in order to appease her we accepted some extra blue bags and quickly scooted out the door. As we exited the Ranger Station, a paranoid hiker told each of us that there was “a lot of bear activity” in the North Cascades. We were so scared. Departing the trailhead at 8:40 am we cheerfully ate up the first several miles before spotting a black bear just below the trail. It glared and snorted in our general direction so we moved on. Reloaded with water at the suspension bridge, we reached the junction of the N. Fork of Bridge Creek and turned up valley. This trail was in great shape to Grizzly Creek Camp but became overgrown to the point we were just trying to follow the path of least resistance. This path eventually became choked with Nettles and Thistle. It was too hot to want to wear pants and a few nettles didn’t seem too intimidating. We charged through the gauntlet of thorny vegetation and kept fighting for what seemed like miles until we broke out onto the creek bed. Legs stinging and bleeding, we located a pair of large logs downstream and crossed into the slide alder choosing a slightly rising traverse to the right. We refilled with more water under the snow field. Contemplating our route and wondering if another party without a permit would be at the magic bivy, we made good time up the 4th class and brush arriving at the bivy at approximately 5:30 pm. We drank more water, spread out our sacks under the looming north face of Goode and enjoyed the view over dinner. Then we hung our food. From a tree. The alarms sounded at 4:30 am. We quickly ate breakfast noting the stars blinking out of a clear sky and rolled up camp. Leaving the bivy at 5:36 we gained altitude to the glacier. Juan found a direct ramp onto the glacier and we were soon assessing the various options for crossing the moat. Juan found one that would “go” and noted others as possibilities. Bonathanjarrett racked up and took the first lead of moderate 5th class (loose 5.5 that felt like 5.8 to me) and brought Juan and me up to a semi-hanging belay. Another half pitch brought us to easier climbing on the ridge. We agreed the youthful rope gun should continue in the lead with Juan and me simul-climbing until he wanted to relinquish the lead. This turned out to be never. We hung on like aging water-skiers behind the SS Jonathan as he motored up the buttress. What a treat! Which way do we go? UP! We stopped a couple of times to return gear but really didn’t encounter much sustained climbing over the rest of the route. Here's a rare picture of us with Johnathan on route. There were several short sections of fun moves on good holds. Near the summit, we encountered another team of three ascending the SW couloir route and they graciously allowed us to pass. No summit register to be found, just an empty sardine can. Was it Fred’s? It took our team approximately 4:50from the time we left the glacier to summit. Where's Waldo(Dave)? At the second rap station, we discovered a pair of cut ropes headed down the wrong descent gully complete with a ‘biner that had the REI price tag still on it. Looked like an epic. Whoever you are, we have your ropes. You can have them in exchange for the story. The "obvious dirt ledge" according to Beckey The descent was chossy and steep but we eventually made it to the timber and found our way down to the Park Creek Trail, arriving in 2 Mile Camp after an hour of walking. We reached camp exactly at sunset, 8:02 pm. The fire kept the bugs at bay while we ate and discussed the day’s climb while avoiding the ominous hike we faced on Monday. After dinner we hung our food and then went to sleep knowing that our ranger friend would be so proud. South Side of Goode from Camp Creek Monday morning was a little cloudy and we lazily hiked out of camp at 8:00 am arriving at Bridge Creek Trailhead as a sprinkle of rain turned steady. We figured it was about 17 miles and 9 hours of hiking. Probably a similar amount of time to return to the trail head from the regular bivy but eliminating the problematic descent through the Storm King Col. Most importantly to Juan, on the way out, he captured a small, male Rubber Boa on the trail. They are the only true boa that inhabits the Northwest and are seldom seen as they are nocturnal and generally hide in burrows. We took some pictures of Juan’s slithery little friend while it pooped on his hand. The Snake Whisperer eventually freed his rubbery soul mate and we pressed on Juan is also the proud recipient of the “tough-guy” award for not complaining about his blisters.

Nice!

Light boots will be fine, whatever's comfy and won't give you blisters is the primary concern. Have fun, don't worry about the jacket, sounds like you're set.

Are you renting plastic boots? I would consider them overkill this time of year on Adams. If that is your only choice, consider making the trek to camp in some trail runners or comfy hiking boots. My first attempt at Adams was my only climb with plastics, they were rental Koflach's from REI. Probably a good idea to wear trail shoes as much as possible as the rental boots may not fit very well and minimizing your feet's time in them would be good. We attmepted the climb in late May and had to walk several miles of road just to reach Cold Springs which was totally miserable in plastics and easily preventable by bringing some running shoes.

Hold on now, we don't even know what kind of food they dropped off. Crème Brulee and a spot of Brandy?

Using the Phantom Creek approach puts you back in Roscoe at the Grizzly Bar and Grill for dinner. Good food, typically slow MT service.

Trip: Granite Peak - SE Ridge/Face Date: 7/10/2011 Trip Report: In the weeks leading up to this climb, we strongly considered the South Couloir route that approaches via Cooke City but with the monster snow pack, accepted our mission to hike the Phantom Creek approach. This is likely one of the nicest most consistent grade trail I've hiked to approach a climb as should be evident by the smile on my partner's face. Reaching the Froze to Death Plateau took approximately 4 hours from the trailhead, intermittent post holing, scree and boulder hopping ensued across this wasteland. An additional 2-3 hours after reaching the divide between east and west Rosebud, we arrived at our high camp, next to a nicely flowing spring. I was ready for a break, not having been above 10k for a long time. Not another soul on the plateau, it is a pretty area in a giant gravel pit kind of way. No goats, one lonely marmot who kept his distance. The only other people we encountered on the entire trip was a father/son duo on the plateau while we were decending. They had broken up the West Rosebud approach into two days. We performed the usual camp chores and ducked into the tent for the afternoon thunder storms. Woke up to 30 degrees and starry sky at 4:00am. Left camp after a leisurely breakfast and coffee, finishing the hike up to where we'd drop into the Tempest/Granite Col. Granite looking good under blue skies in the morning light. We scrambled the rock ridge where possible, carefully route finding along the ridge to the SE face. Having carried a rope and small rack the entire way, we agreed to leave them in the pack for the duration of the climb as we didn't encounter any sustained climbing. I don't know how many of these "mid fifth" climbs I've carried a rope/rack the entire climb and not broke it out. I'd take it again because I'd want it if the rock was wet or icy and I'm just not that bold. Reaching the summit 4 hours after leaving camp, we took in the incredible views of the Beartooths and even spotted the Tetons in the distance. The peak to my left in the photo is the Beartooth Range's Glacier Peak and you can see the Becky Couloir route (5.7 AI3 Grade IV) up the prominent gully to the summit. I think Becky climbed it in '64. Taking notice of some suspicious clouds on the horizon, we down climbed the route and hurried back to camp where we scarfed down some lunch and broke camp. We took a more direct route across the plateau and made it into the Phantom Creek drainage just as a huge thunderstorm engulfed us. Taking a break at tree line, the rain caught us and kept it cool for the long hike out. Despite being in as good of shape as I've ever been, I was surprised and humbled with how physically demanding this climb was. Lot's of mileage and time above 12,000'. Having made the Huckleberry Creek approach on a previous attempt and my partner having done the standard approach from West Rosebud, we agreed Phantom Creek is the easiest considering the even grade and excellent maintenance of the trail.

ONP has issued this set of guidelines to avoid future goat attacks: http://www.nps.gov/olym/parkmgmt/upload/Mountain-Goat-ACTION-PLAN_2011_Final.pdf They should have a waiver included somewhere.

I would think durability played into his gear decision making as well. The potential for losing gear out of a damaged pack, ripped up pants or a broken tool would be totally unacceptable at that level of commitment.

Bandit Wine comes in a durable carton and pretty decent.

Nice! They have some pretty good box wine these days that actually tates fine after a long day on the trail. Good effort to pack the genuine Italian wine.

No more blogging??

Where's the TR from Burgundy?

My friend Jay and I used siege tactics on this route on Sunday, neither of us have rock climbed much lately (years for me) so we were a little slow. It’s a fun and worthwhile climb but I’d consider parking bikes at the top if I were to do it again. We were kind of surprised a how much loose rock is still present on the route considering how much traffic it gets so remember your helmet and be careful if rapping the route. The grades (Grade III+ 5.9) seemed a little over rated as compared a climb like the E. Face of Lexington Tower (also a Grade III+ 5.9)? How does a straight sport climb’s commitment grade differ from an alpine grade? Is there a difference?

I agree with Mattp. I had a Redwing years ago and while it is just fine for hiking, you'd probably not be satisfied with it for climbing. 50l is a good size. Second Ascent in Ballard is great for good deals (they have a ton of used packs) and their staff would set you up with a good climbing pack that fits your body. Getting a good fit is important.

Found a ring under a log on Sunday at the base of unibolter rock in Mazama.

Let's hope it stays that way. It seems to me this could potentially be a gray area. The pass is required for "lands managed by state parks dept". I guess we'll find out soon enough, signs are supposed to be installed in the next few days for any site where the pass is mandated.

Any other climbing areas included besides Beacon?

Extra points for matching shirts? Indeed!

Nice TR, good to hear some folks showed up for the work party and clinics. Does anyone know of a topo avaialble for Fun Rock? I know certain rock climbing area's have topos floating around the interweb but I haven't found one yet for Mazama. Thanks!

Trip: Grand Teton - Upper Exum Date: 6/28/2008 Trip Report: My friend Donger and I set our sights on climbing the Grand Teton in the summer of 2007. After 4 weeks of recovery from having the meniscus repaired on one of my knees, I thought I was ready. Hurtling in my old Audi down Gallatin Canyon from Bozeman, we nearly hit a moose who couldn’t decide which way to run and was zigzagging down HWY 191. Driving through Driggs Idaho Donger spat coffee all over the windshield of the car when he noticed a Chinese restaurant called “MESO HUNGRY”. Only in Idaho, right? After passing the quiz by the ranger and despite warnings that a lot of snow still existed high on the mountain we bivied in the moraine below the lower saddle out of the wind. Waking early, we started the approach to the upper mountain, slogging past the guide’s yurt at the lower saddle. The crux was finding a way across the lower part of the Owen Spalding to the beginning of Wall St in the dark. The route finding here was difficult as everywhere you looked there were rap slings. Glad to have that out of the way we hauled up Wall St. to the beginning of the Upper Exum. Climbing was fun and easy. However, we soon found ourselves climbing harder terrain than expected. I thought I was being weak but Donger confirmed, indeed we were off route somewhere to the right of the proper Exum Ridge. Now holed up in a narrow couloir under a big icy chock stone, we paused to put on crampons and get the rack re-organized and construct some kind of anchor to belay from. Legs shaking, I climbed the right facing wall to a small verglassy ledge and moved up and left to just above the chock stone with some decent pro. As I felt like the pro was good and I was starting to lose purchase with my aluminum crampons, I decided to leap to a patch of snow, “WATCH ME, GAHHH!” as I lept/fell. I crawled up to a boulder to hip belay Donger up to my position, he said “hmph” clearly admiring my dyno to the snow patch. We took a break and regained what appeared to be the route. With so much snow, it was difficult to tell if we ever did regain the route which I understand is not unusual on the Exum (it’s all good). At one point I was struggling with some harder moves below the summit while Donger complained about being off route when a solo climber emerged just below us. “Where the heck are we?” he asks. I pulled through the overhanging hand crack grunting and groaning like a gorilla and set a belay. The solo dude passes through with minimal exertion, (kept his feet high) and kept on rolling. We were starting to get concerned as it was nearing noon when suddenly we just ran out of mountain to climb. We took some pictures and boogied down the OS route chasing after a guided group. The overhanging rap was cool and we made good time down to a point approximately where we struggled to find a way to Wall Street that morning. Here was a young guide trying to short rope an older client down through some pretty nasty scree and boulder field but struggling as the client had his crampons on. I pointed out that there was no more snow and he might benefit from removing his crampons. I thought she (the guide) was going to hit the client when he enthusiastically agreed. Apparently she’d been trying to convince him to remove the crampons since the upper saddle with no success. Beer and burgers in Jackson Hole made for a sleepy drive home.

Victim of a leg trap? I saw a very irate black bear in Montana that had a small leg trap (probably intended for coyote) stuck on one of his forelegs. He eventually removed the trap but had a pretty good scar from it.

Maybe it's karma for the person who's feces you stepped in?

Arthritis? That's what my Dr.'s favorite prognosis is. Have you had any x-rays or an MRI done?