Bronco

Bob: With all of your incredible knowledge, I think you should join your local Mountain Rescue Unit. Here's a link for you to get started: http://wcsar.org/bmrc/applynow/

I'm sure you could find a spot out there but it's pretty hairy. I watched a huge avalanche sweep out a good 1000' onto the Carbon glacier from a serac calving off a few years ago. I was glad to be at Thumb Rock as it rumbled by. Does the flat area you marked on your map appear to have avalanche debris on it in the photo above? My concern with your strategy is that most climbers want to climb the ridge below Thumb Rock while it's still cold in the morning and the choss is still somewhat frozen in place. Most climbers also want to climb the area above Thumb Rock while it's cold in the morning and things are locked up. Can you go in the first night and get to the camp at the east edge of the Carbon Glacier? It's pretty benign up to that point if memory serves correct.

Solo glacier travel by a newbie in June on the Coleman Demming is a definite NO in my book. Check out google earth.

Did you guys manage to get some suffering in? Looks pretty sweet!

Ok, I was curious if the Chris Hopkins experiment was over yet and noticed the thread was gone. I'm wondering if he can figure out how Fred is involved in the USFS/NWAC/Paid Guide/wealthy site admin conspiracy.

What happened to the "how to remove tar and feathers" post?

I cary one of these: https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/ski-bindings/binding-buddy-multi-tool-BD1635000000ALL1.html And Brooks range has another version: https://www.brooks-range.com/ski-binding-tool-p/9608.htm Make sure you have the correct bits for your bindings. I added some torx bits. I also carry several ski straps, 4-5 various binding screws and a multi tool, the leatherman Crunch is my favorite for MTB and Skiing with the vice grip pliers.

An occasional application of skin wax on the plush and ironing the glue side with a brown paper bag seems to keep them going. If Jason can put the amount of mileage on his over 16 years, that's pretty solid endorsement.

https://projects.seattletimes.com/2018/mariners-missteps/ Longest playoff drought in professional sports. Unlikely to end this year.

Must've missed this the first time around. I think I also climbed with the poster Kainsacad out at Index once with a similar experience. He advertised as a 5.10 climber and struggled mightily to follow a 5.8 and seems to lack some of the basic understanding of belaying and rope handling. There may be a different thread about him, his name is Mehrdad or something like that. Former Iranian army if I recall. Good times!

no longer needed

There's a risk assessment tool used in SAR that is similar to some stuff I've read on go/nogo for alpine activities: Each category (team experience, route planning/knowledge, team fitness, weather, route conditions etc.) gets a green/amber/red grade, any reds must be mitigated or the mission is called off. I know SAR has a different goal than alpine climbing or BC Skiing but I It think something like this can be helpful in a situation where accidents are caused by a series of bad decisions, especially with newbs.

Stairway to Heaven!

Bob - I felt a personal connection through Marc's posting here and am sad about the potential loss of a sincerely nice dude who developed into a pretty good climber right before our eyes. Not everyone has the ability to empathize and there's nothing wrong with that. Gene - Regarding the odds of risk, I believe there are way too many variables in climbing to be able to apply a number with any kind of accuracy.

Is the WDFW intending to avoid conducting meetings anywhere near the majority of the population?

Doesn't sound good but I think they're pretty tough young guys and hopefully just holed up somewhere to ride out the weather.

how about this cautionary tale?

Has anyone of you gomers climbed it yet? Looks like it was finished in September. Seems a little more doable than Infinite Bliss for us "off the couch" guys and going to the Old Schoolhouse for dinner is always a bonus. Does anyone have a topo? https://www.climbing.com/places/flyboys-washingtons-18-pitch-5-9-sport-route/

Love this photo. Why, what did they say when you stopped to ask them why they bivied there?

Wow, awesome photos and great job with the climb you guys!

I'm not available Saturday but I think your attention to detail is impressive!

Like most others here, I just use common sense, drink straight from small streams and filter where I think it could be impacted. On longer trips, I'll carry actual soap for washing hands and a half dozen Imodium pills. Giardi cleanse be damned!

Jason, I think a conditions report for each region would turn out to be the busiest and most entertaining threads here.

I believe a lot of us OG's have gotten more experienced and less interested in posting about every exploit in the outdoors. If there's already multiple well written and photographed TR's on a certain route, I know I'm more reluctant to put up another one with less gooder grammar and cell phone pics. Also, just gettin older, get out less, and care less about posting. I try to put up my best climb of each year but that's about it.

how about this one?