Bronco

Hanging out 4 pitches up any mountain with a busted ankle for 16 hours make you the Alpine Buddy of the week by default. Glad to hear you are ok instead of..... well, you know. And nice job of your friends and SMR getting you down! [ 06-06-2002, 01:47 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

cheers!

take a 2lb bag of rice and a small blow gun. Eat rice and whatever you can kill along the way. Bugs are nutritious too.

This Etheral Bivy looks like the best of the bunch except the price tag Any body use one? Less than 2lbs and pole supported headroom. neato!

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: ......Just shut up and get a bivy for now. Then get a single wall 4 season is my advice But I already have a bomber EddieBauer tent that only weighs 16 pounds with no less than 5 fiberglass poles. I got several nice compliments on it when I took it up Mt. Adams south side a few years ago. "holy shit that is ahhh ahhh ahhh nice big tent haw haw haw!" Despite all the poles I woke up with the wind blowin' and the top of that sucker about 2" off my nose. I really thought I hit the big time with my "lightweight" walrus 4 season tent at 8.5 pounds. It has served me well in some storms but sucks the big one if I have to carry it (purchased at REI) [ 06-04-2002, 10:41 AM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Whatever you get, bivy bags are damp. The "breathable" fabric doesn't breath enough. And they pretty much suck in a downpour. Combined with a small tarp I think I could survive a couple of nights.

Sold! [ 06-20-2002, 02:48 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

USSR surplus titanium looooong ass screws. They are cheap cheap cheap, light light light, and you don't need anything fancy with the knobs for most glacier travel. ie: you probably wont be hanging by one ice tool trying to place the screw with a waterfall coming down inside your coatsleeve. That's what I use for sloggin on the volcanoes. they also look good for posing around the camp muir hut. i like to rack about 10 of em on my bigwall gearsling and kick back in front of the outhouses where all the arriving climbers can gape at me, Heh heh heh. [ 06-03-2002, 04:58 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

I am thinking a Bivy Sack could handle my fair weather mountaineering antics but, there seem to be a "shit pile" of designs and fabrics. I have looked at these manufactureres websites: Bibler Pika Feathered Friends OR Integral Designs Moonstone Marmot I have actually wrestled my way into a Bibler tripod, OR advanced bivy and a Bibler "hooped" bivy which cover the basic spectrum of designs. The "clamshell" type Integral Designs South Col seems to be the way to go so far, $134.00 at the MEC and a nice compromise between weight, price, durability, and ease of entry for one of the "clamshells". I avoided the bivys with the poles because of weight, price and ease of setup. Anybody have anything else to add that I have overlooked? Can any of you Kanadians confrirm the MEC South Col is actually the Integral Designs South Col? Your Friend, Johnny Come Lately

SNOWCLAW!! Anybody use one of these? Looks like a good climbers shovel except I am not too sure I would want to be traveling avvy terrain if this is all my partners had Probably melt if you used it as a stove stand also. Pretty Light though.

thanks for sharing, nice trip report!

In 1953, Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary became the first climbers to reach the summit of Mt. Everest. 3 cheers! On a side note, on another May 29th, 188 years earlier, a fiesty Patrick Henry, after introducing 7 anti-Stamp Act resolutions before the colonial legislature said " If this be Treason, make the most of it!" when accused of treason by loyalist British bastards er ah, members.

to further explain the phenomena an example: A short guy was seen driving back and forth along the Icicle with a hottie stopping to "gape" at climbers and occasionally spew forth some beta on what to climb. He had been doing a good job of "gaping" because he knew where and when everbody else was climbing, yet seemed content to drive around "gaping" on Saturday. GAPER I on the other hand, was seen walking around the area of Snow Creek parking lot and Icicle Butt "posing" with climbing gear. Making sure to be seen by everybody, with rope, harness, gaitors and a #5 camalot, occasionally flipping through the guide book to pose as a climber. I was near some rocks later, flailing maybe, but still a stretch. POSER Get it right people.

ouch!

nice job guys, all in a day's work for SAR.

We had a great time mike, good fun climbing. And I thought the weather was just bad enought to keep the crowds away. Nice updates on your website!

another important category to discuss is that of the "CHESTBEATER" The chestbeater will parade around in front of others to draw as much attention to themselves and their accomplishments as possible (no matter how feeble). Some chestbeaters even post Trip Reports on the internet in hope of some recognition by their peers. Chestbeaters are aggressive and passionate about whatever they deem important so caution should be excersiced when the aggresive Chestbeater is encountered. Peers of the chestbeater also include the "gaper" and the "poser" the latter being sometimes difficult to distinguish from the chestbeater. One method to determine if you are dealing with a chestbeater or poser would be to announce they are full of shit in front of some hotties that are admiring the suspect's bravado. Be prepared (or armed) as the chestbeater will physically attack you without hesitation while the poser will sneak off into the shadows to lick his wounds. An alternate and safer method would be to search for Trip Reports on the internet. The chestbeater will have very detailed blow by blow accounts of each and every climb, no matter how boring they seem. The Poser may have none or very ambigious trip reports, ie: we went to leavenworth, I did this, we looked at that. The Poser tends to fall short of claiming to climb something, just lets others assume they are a climber by association or by being in the proximity of some climing area.

In the book "The Climb Up to Hell" by Jack Olsen, (an account of an unsuccessful climb and rescue on the North Face of the Eiger) it refers to the many tourists and town's folk who make sport of "Gaping" or "go outside to gape at" the climbers and rescuers on the wall through binoculars and telescopes. Apartantly the sport of "Gaping" evolved out of the alps around the same time climbing evolved. So, in a technical sense, a "gaper" would be different than a "poser" in that a "poser" would pretend to climb or imply that they climb where a "gaper" may just be happy to watch and not participate. More coffee!

Any guesses at the origin of "gaper"? I have been reading a classic climbing book and think I have the answer.

I don't know. At the top of the colum it says "Strength" Then under that it says "Impact Force" Then the 8.2kN. I am not sure what you are getting at. We dont speak passive aggressive here. get to the point man!

hey amber i think Collin is looking for a partner, you got some skis?

quote: Originally posted by JayB: Fair enough. Statement in the declarative rather than interrogative tense and more weeny-speak coming up: The 8.2kN figure is the maximum force (the impact force) that the rope will generate when holding a climbers fall rather than the maximum tensile strength of the rope. The UIAA and EN regs require a dynamic rope to have an impact force of less than 12kN when holding a factor two fall with an 80kg load in an attempt to limit the forces on the climber, pro, etc. Not sure what the maximum tensile load a typical climbing rope can handle is, but in most high-load falls I've read about it's always been the biners, gear, or runner that fails rather than the rope. Most biners I've seen have a rating between 18 and 25 kN so I'm thinking that the maximum strength of the rope must be at least that high or higher. Good to know. thank you for clarifying that the rope is probably at least as strong as a daisy and further validates my thought that Caveman is indeed a climbing god. [ 05-24-2002, 01:40 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

DUDE! harsh toke pulling rank on me! I must humble myself in the presence of one of my mentors. I'm not worthy!! Don't trundle on me if you see me tomorow. Maybe we will see you out there for a or three. watch out for the stihl hat.

quote: Originally posted by iain: If you're really worrying about your rope ripping in half at the clove hitches you've got some big problems. Tell me about it!

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Bronco silly the swami and clove hitches are a little different. Nice try Daisy dukes !! while they are obvioulsy different, they are similar in that they are outdated by safer stronger gear and techniques. YOU WILL DIE IF YOU USE THE ROPE TO ANCHOR IN! what I meant to say is, I am so ready for the weekend [ 05-24-2002, 10:01 AM: Message edited by: Bronco ]