Bronco

In the book "The Climb Up to Hell" by Jack Olsen, (an account of an unsuccessful climb and rescue on the North Face of the Eiger) it refers to the many tourists and town's folk who make sport of "Gaping" or "go outside to gape at" the climbers and rescuers on the wall through binoculars and telescopes. Apartantly the sport of "Gaping" evolved out of the alps around the same time climbing evolved. So, in a technical sense, a "gaper" would be different than a "poser" in that a "poser" would pretend to climb or imply that they climb where a "gaper" may just be happy to watch and not participate. More coffee!

Any guesses at the origin of "gaper"? I have been reading a classic climbing book and think I have the answer.

I don't know. At the top of the colum it says "Strength" Then under that it says "Impact Force" Then the 8.2kN. I am not sure what you are getting at. We dont speak passive aggressive here. get to the point man!

hey amber i think Collin is looking for a partner, you got some skis?

quote: Originally posted by JayB: Fair enough. Statement in the declarative rather than interrogative tense and more weeny-speak coming up: The 8.2kN figure is the maximum force (the impact force) that the rope will generate when holding a climbers fall rather than the maximum tensile strength of the rope. The UIAA and EN regs require a dynamic rope to have an impact force of less than 12kN when holding a factor two fall with an 80kg load in an attempt to limit the forces on the climber, pro, etc. Not sure what the maximum tensile load a typical climbing rope can handle is, but in most high-load falls I've read about it's always been the biners, gear, or runner that fails rather than the rope. Most biners I've seen have a rating between 18 and 25 kN so I'm thinking that the maximum strength of the rope must be at least that high or higher. Good to know. thank you for clarifying that the rope is probably at least as strong as a daisy and further validates my thought that Caveman is indeed a climbing god. [ 05-24-2002, 01:40 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

DUDE! harsh toke pulling rank on me! I must humble myself in the presence of one of my mentors. I'm not worthy!! Don't trundle on me if you see me tomorow. Maybe we will see you out there for a or three. watch out for the stihl hat.

quote: Originally posted by iain: If you're really worrying about your rope ripping in half at the clove hitches you've got some big problems. Tell me about it!

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Bronco silly the swami and clove hitches are a little different. Nice try Daisy dukes !! while they are obvioulsy different, they are similar in that they are outdated by safer stronger gear and techniques. YOU WILL DIE IF YOU USE THE ROPE TO ANCHOR IN! what I meant to say is, I am so ready for the weekend [ 05-24-2002, 10:01 AM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

I noticed in the most recent Rock and Ice mag an article about smaller diameter ropes. As a recent purchaser of a BD Hotline on special for $109 I was interested in the article. As it turns out, a German climbing magazine (Klettern) did some independant tests of the Hotline (and some others) but found the Hotline failed consitently "BEFORE 5 FALLS". The 2001 BD catolog claims 7 falls which I considered when purchasing the rope. I am not going to return the rope as I think I got what I paid for, (70m dry rope for $109) and plan to only use it in the mountains, but, at the same time I can't help but feel like maybe the test results had something to do with the discounted price and feel a little decieved. they are still avaiable here: BD Specials [ 05-24-2002, 09:39 AM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

If that's true, what is the logic behind the tech tables in my latest BD catalog? Strongest rope is their 9.4 stinger II at 8.2kN Strongest daisy chain is the spectra at 19 kN I see the Freedom of the hills is rating the knot strength of the clove hitch at 60%. This makes an even more significant differenc between using the rope vs daisy to anchor with. I agree with Alpine K on the clove hitch being the riggers choice though, fast, efficent. And at the same time also acknowledge the clove hitch has been used for years with great success but, so was the swami belt. [ 05-24-2002, 09:02 AM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

I like the daisy chain or a long runner for tying into the anchor whilst free climbing mainly because it is stronger than using the rope and clove hitch like in the event your partner takes a fall directly on the belay or something. but it is more crap to worry about and get in the way.

Hardman Double Gumby Gaper if you have more than 800 posts. Hey!

and what's this braggin about taking advantage of an emotional widow to get more crap than you could ever use? Any respectable person would have given her at least $20.00 american

Nice homepage!

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Darn! Pope you're begining to irritate me. Here we haven't had an exchange in sometime and now I am going to agree with you (at least with regard to Twight and the church lady). And I have even climbed with him. I climbed with an offended church lady one time. And I swore in front of my Pastor a few years ago: I was helping him tear down the old parsonage and he cut the beam holding up the wall that held up my ladder. "SHIIIIIIIIIIIIT!" skreetched from my lips on the way down. He thought it was humorous. Now can I be hard core? Not unless you categorized me as a hard core GUMBY [ 05-22-2002, 05:19 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: how do you know that the same "agent orange", do you have IP addresses or what? what's an IP address? seriously, I dont know. you are right dru, it's probably a different guy posing as hard-on agent orange on a climbing spray site. [ 05-22-2002, 05:09 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

why do you want to get rid of this guy?

that's Ironic, I just read AO's spray on the Rock and Ice site, he apartantly has some time on his hands. I wonder if the inmates at the SOC in Monroe are allowed to have access to the internet. hmmmmmm.....

thanks for breaking it down so us non 'puter geeks can understand it.

It's not online, but, there is a more detailed version in Selected Climbs in the Cascades, Volume II by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield. But probably not as authoritative, in my gaper opinion. [ 05-21-2002, 04:09 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

NOT FIRST HAND, but I felt sorry for you. I got it off of this website: http://66.155.42.150/advscripts/climb_mta.asp ROAD CONDITIONS Snow blocks vehicle travel on the primary access roads from Trout Lake to the South Climb. Road 8040 is blocked by snow just past Wicky Shelter. This is approximately 6.5 miles from Cold Springs, the summer trailhead for the South Climb. At Cold Springs there is still 7 feet of snow. Road 8040500 past Morrison Cr. Campground has been closed (by gate) for the winter season. This is 3 miles from Cold Springs and the South Climb Trailhead. The road will be reopened in late spring, once the majority of snow has melted from the road. This closure is to protect the new road surface. For the latest information on conditions please call the Mt. Adams Ranger Station at 509-395-3400. [ 05-21-2002, 04:01 PM: Message edited by: Bronco ]

You have pine needles, devils club, moss and slide alder leaves permenantly stuck in your underwear, pack, sleeping bag, hair, tent, socks, shoes, etc.

lots of people showed up, got rid of several bags of garbage and cleared some overgrown trails and about a half acre of black berry bushes by the country on saturday. also got to take a peek into the "missle silo"

I am looking for a good dog who can belay and climb 5.8, and won't slobber all over the rope. People annoy me with all of their talking.

You might wait a while as there is a high possiblility that the Mountain bike portion is still covered with quite a bit of snow, which makes for "interesting" riding, especially with packs on.