ryland_moore

Good for the corporate sponsors to reward PMR and the dog, although I am not so sure you should reward the dog's owner for doing what they did. Anyone see the Ellen show? How did it go down?

Ice: Tim Garland on the first ascent of 2nd on the Left, Strobach Mountain Humor: Basecamp Mullet - donning a mullet, wife-beater, and a Sturgis t-shirt with acid-washed jeans after summiting Denali

Megamid, by far!

I actually just had to send these gloves back to BD because after one weekend of climbing with them, the seems started to rip apart from placing screws. I would like any info. on this. Otherwise this will not be the only pair of BD gloves I send back....

It was also god to hear matty's perspective on what happened up there. Sounds like he will think twice about some of his decisions in the mountains and maybe give the cascades, especially in the winter, a little more respect. Hopefully, their appearance on the Ellen Degeneres show will not further fuel the fire with regards to the MLUs issue in Salem and that they can now admit that they were not prepared to get themselves off the mountain safely. If he uses his statements frm his account on Ellen, then I hope he takes a stand on the MLUs, but he probably won't. mybe it will simply be a feel-good story about velvet the wonder dog, but if it gets sensationalized, then maybe these folks will not have the gumption or ability to say on national tv that they were at fault, that they decided not to listen to the weather reports, and that they did not have the proper skills to get themselves out of the bad situation. Glad to hear everyone recovered and also glad to hear that matty does feel responsible for putting his dog in that situation. Finally, I am glad they are doing something for PMR. I may have to bring my pointer, Lizzie down there for that event!

Article here Interesting article on a climber from Hood River about ascending the North Face of the Eiger after his father died on the route 40 years ago. Might be fun to check out the new IMAX film which opens this Friday at OMSI.

10 years ago, when I was right out of college and just starting out in mountaineering, I did their Ecuador volcanoes trip with Eli Helsmuth. They were awesome folks and I had a blast. I am still climbing and Eli and co. got me wanting more. Eli has since left for CO. Mountain School, but if all guides are on his level, then your friends would have a blast. But if your friends have the glacier skills to climb Rainier alone and basic snow camping skills, then they should do it themselves...

Two years during spring break, I went to Bishop. You have the Owens River Gorge for sport, you have bouldering in the Happy, Sads, and Buttermilks, you have ice climbing in Lee Vining, and you may get some sweet alpine trad depending on route and weather. Plus, there are tons of hot springs and a great crowd in the campground. Climbing ice one day and then climbing sport in the sun with shorts and no shirt the next was one of the coolest things I've ever done.....

Arch, it sounds like you would be interested in donating to a local or regional land trust to help conserve open spaqce around you community. There are a lot of them around Seattle. The Nature Conservancy is intgernational so while they are the largest environmental non-profit in the world, your dollars may not go to protecting or restoring a parcel in your area. I'd look at this map to determine the land trust in your back yard. Plus, you will be invited to go out onto the lands you helped to conserve and listen to interesting speakers. It is a great bunch of people.

I don't know about the whole east coast. If I ever moved back, it would definitely be to the mountains of NC. Granted nothing glaciated or sharp spires, but huge granite domes, sweet multi-pitch trad climbing, out of this world overhanging sport climbing, sick rivers for kayaking, cheaper cost of living, better food, and hotter women by far, although that doesn't say much since this is the PNW. The beer is not as good though, but you also have Waffle House. Biking on the Blue Ridge Parkway is incredible and the people are nicer and easier to get to know. The fishing is so-so, but the saltwater blows away anything we have here. Marlin, dorado, cobia, tarpon, redfish, sails, kingfish, wahoo......Can't get anything like that out here. You also have to deal with more sprawl, but who doesn't in smaller communities here in the PNW? Seattle is one of the sprawliest cities in the country! Still, you can't beat our summer weather, the amount of snow, and the recreation within such close proximity. Hence why I am still here. But for back east, Western NC or Chatanooga, TN is where its at! They do outcompete many locations here in the PNW. For example if I was forced to live in either Eugene or Cashiers, NC, I would go for Cashiers. Actually, come to think of it, there are only a few places that I could tolerate in the PNW over the mountains of NC/Asheville area: Portland, Bellingham, Bend, Hood River and maybe Leavenworth or Mazama, but Mazama is too small and the whole Bavarian thing might annoy me after a while in L-town....... Alaska has too many crazy people, but I do love AK!

hrm was sick on Saturday as well as lower Newton. Some of the best snow conditions I've skied in Oregon in a while!

Look in the freshies and ice sections for OR instead of Cascades. Probably won't see anything in OR until rock and spring mts. come in.....

I think I am going crazy. I cannot, for the life of me, remember who posted the link to the Big Four ski descent video by the Hummels and philfort last spring. Little help please? the edited version is what i amlooking for. Thanks in advance.

Yeah, Body Glide is the stick roll-on I was referring to. Although I am not sure how well it would work in the crotch. hence the chamoise Buttr. One issue with Chamoise butter though is that it may be difficult to get out of clothes. Reaed the label first. it comes out of tri-shorts, but cxan gum up the butt pad a little over time.

I've never had a problem with chafffing when climbing, but to prevent chaffing during triathlon, there is a stick you can buy that goes on like roll-on deodorant that prevents chaffing around the creases in your wetsuit. Also, i use Chamois Butter (find at any bike store) for long century rides and this prevents chaffing as well.

Thanks Cluck. That does clear up a few things. I felt a rope would probably be necessary in those conditions. The slopes really changed from the dsay before in that area. I still find it hard to believe that there is anywhere in that area with a 500 ft. continuous drop. You tied 3 50 meter ropes together? Where is this on the mountain? just up and right of the top of the Palmer? or below, elevation wise? Kevbone, read the first sentence in my last post. You cliam that you know more information about this incident than anyone on this board, implying that you have detailed info. with regards to all of the speculation being flung on this site. aeither you know or you don't know anything more than we do. Obviously, from your last two posts, you don't know.

Don’t know ask them Don’t know ask them Don’t know ask them Don’t know ask them Don’t know ask them Don’t know ask them So you pretend like you know all of the answers and claim that you know more than we do, but when I ask you basic questions you can't answer them? Do you ride the short bus? Barkerews, thanks for the reply.

So since you are friends with these hikers, then please answer a few questions for us: Why did they not navigate back to T-line using the GPS? Why did they stay when they knew there was a big storm coming in? Why did they not descend White River Canyon? Seems like very minor injuries to me and not hard to get lost in that canyon down to the snowpark. Why are they claiming they fell 500 ft? if you look at a map there is not a continuous 500 foot loss in elevation between the main south slope and the bottom of white river canyon anywhere from below the Devil's Kitchen down to Timberline Lodge. Why did they have crampons on while descending a moderate snow slope while it was snowing? (I was up on Hood on Saturday and know what the conditions were like the day before) What was the mountaineering experience of all of the hikers? Please answer all of these questions all-knowing one.....

Kevbone, you are an idiot. You do not know what you are talking about with regards to anything involving stuff besides rock, so you are the one you needs to STFU. It is embarassing a nd I feel sorry for you. If they were climbers in the sense of having snow skills then they would not have done the things they did. For example Bone, if you were at Smith and saw someone wearing their harness backwards or backclipping every draw, or belaying incorrectly, you would think, "They don't know what the hell they are doing." Right? So, when I hear that the climbers were wearing crampons descending from I Saddle in a snowstorm, I think the same thing. Same goes for having a GPS unit and not knowing how to navigate down with it. The being roped up part I might be able to understand in a complete whiteout so as not to lose any members of the group. The whole situation just reeks of Recreational Darwinism. Unfortunately, it happens way to often on Mt. Hood. I've seen worse for sure. I even was criticized for writing a stupid article about it in some climbing rag several years ago. But keep in mind, Bone, the only way people become better climbers is to learn from experiences and learning from people more skilled then they are. They forgot about the latter. As regards to the Fair and Balanced comment, I was joking, of course.....It was more to point out that, while stereotypical, it does lump most media sources all into one....

Kevbone, make your friends read these posts. Maybe then they will realize that they are not helping but hindering the climbing community by doing what they are doing with the media blitz. Glorified for stupidity, and wearing crampons? Why? Who wears crampons in a snowstorm descending a low-angled snow slope? barkernews, I saw several of your live coverages on the news during this event. You complain that people do not respect you and our profession, but you are part of the problem with regards to the complaints being stated on this thread. You stated several times that the MLU is what saved them and never once addressed the fact that the people lacked the experience to be there and created the problem themselves. You never stated that the initial group was located through the use of the GPS, or address the fact that they were not able to navigate with the GPS unit they possessed. You folded to the media hype, jumped on the bandwagon, and did not once stand up for the climbing community. Plus, every report from KATU I've seen has not once addressed the climbing community's perspective with regards to this incident or with regards to the proposed Bill on carrying MLUs. The worst part abot it is the media is looking at this website for information, but only chooses to print what will make a good story and ends up distorting the truth of what really happened. If you are a climber than why don't you act more like Fox and be "Fair and Balanced." If you are stating that you are a member of the climbing community (Different then I am a climber), then you should provide information and interviews that address the climbing community's perspective. Maybe Dmuja takes it a little too far ith his toungue in cheek remarks, but I would say that you are not a part of the solution ut a part of the problem. Sorry for the dose of reality and const4ructive criticism. if you want to meet in person and talk about these issues over a beer, I live in No Po as well.

Iain thanks for the update. That is excellent that we had so many groups opposing the MLU requirement. Can you let me know how to submit written testimony for this? Thanks.

Cindy, he does have a point. There are no crevasses or rockfall where they were. They were just above a wide open snow slope that has never avalanched to my knowledge and just above the ski resort. They were not up on the more technical areas. The only reason they may have roped up was in case they lost each other in a whiteout, which I may be able to understand (now there is some speculation KevBone!), but it still pulled everyone down, including the dog, which was also tied to the rope or one of the climbers! I may have done the same thing in that instance, but the fact is they should have been able to get off themselves before any of this occurred. In response to one of the other posters, I fully supported the three in December and it had nothing to do with their deaths. I was in support of their ascent, their skills, and their reasoning for being there all beforew the outcome became real. I could have easily been up there as the weather was so stellar and conditions on the N. Face were ideal. Something happened, that we will never know about, that prevented them from descending from the summit under clear skies and they stayed one night too long. I would haze someone just as much whether they died or not. I would expect the same hazing from my friends, climbing partners, and everyone on this board if I screwed up. And I have. My shit stinks just as much as the next. A little taste of constructive criticism and reality check is a good thing and it can act as a wake-up call to most people who may not realize the problems they created by being selfish and blaze about their actions. If there was not any criticism from clmbers to these guys and gals, then maybe they would be educated to think that every time they got in a tough spot they could simply pull out the MLU, prematurely even, and expect a rescue when they should rely on their own sills and instincts to self-rescue. As for this weekend, the campers new bad weather was coming in and chose to stay anyways. Then, once they got into trouble, because of lack of poor judgement and lack of skills necessary to descend, they placed themselves in a position where part of the group fell into White River canyon. Instead of descending down White River Canyon to the snowpark (injury may have prevented this)the groups, now separated, pulled out their trusty MLU and waited to be rescued. Two totally different scenarios entirely. Hopefully they have come to realize the true risk they put themselves and every volunteer and rescuer in from their lack of judgement and care-free attitude towards a Cascades winter storm. I bet they will not take things so lightly next time and fortunately they will be around to live and learn. Some people are not so fortunate.

That is the problem with the proposed Bill. There is no enforcement clause. No fines will be assessed for not cairrying an MLU! So they are spensing all of thi money to propose a bill that will have no teeth and wasting tax payers money doing it. I already wrote my Congressman. I was surprised no one stepped up to get a petition started last night at PSU for the PMR show. I coutldn't make it and was stuck at the office, but the liberals are always out there getting signatures for something! Climbers are stereotypically labeled as far left and activist-minded. How come we can't get something started on this? Too busy smoking a bowl to get up off the couch and away from the computers to get people to sign a petition? I'd be willing to volunteer a few hours down at Pioneer Courthouse Square to get signatures. I'd also be willing to help start a chain e-mail that every Oregon voter could sign electronically.....

Until Mt. Hood has a team of climbing rangers stationed on the mountain the entire climbing season, will fly my shit (literally) off the mountain, and will provide up to the minute route information, weather conditions, and staffed with MDs at several locations on the mountain, then you cannot compare Mt. Hood to Denali...... I still have yet to pay for a NW Forest Pass EXCEPT at Timberline. - Any unmaintained NW Forest Pass Zone, I simply put up my window decal statingI am here for other reasons than recreation. I have yet to get a ticket.......Even if I did I would not pay it..... I did here a report on the radio that climbers yesterday in Salem spoke out against the Bill to carry MLUs.

RedNose, where did you hear the details of this? I have heard about it but not in such graphic terms as youdescrhibe. Article or citing for this? this is absolutely crazy and cannot belive that the national media has not picked this up. Just a ew months ago you couldn't turn on the tv without seeing something on the Duke rape case, but now when the tide is turned you see nothing from the national media. Crazy!