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About AKClimber

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  • Birthday 10/09/1984
  1. Ways to Prevent Extension When Using a Cordellette

    I have that book, and I just constructed and anchor using the clove hitches, it doesn't equalize worth shit. Like the idea though, maybe there is a variation of it...
  2. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Yeh, I was just pondering if the Intuition liners would actually fit... I agree on the bag, I would go warmer...
  3. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Will intuition liners fit the Millet Everest One boots? Update: The team decided to add avalanche beacons to the gear. Also, anyone here use a GPS on the mountain? Still pondering bringing one, figure it might help us wiggle out of a storm... Thanks
  4. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    I don't want to spend $50 on a polypro if there is so much debate. Also, I played with some fleece gloves, and they would take out too much dexterity. I have 2 pairs of those manzella windstopper liners, they do the job for me. If I got another liner I would want it to be polypro, not like the sleevless ones that were pointed out. I would fry on sunny days. bfiles, I know what your talking about on the bag, but too late in the game for me to change now. Valid point on the pig too, I plan on bringing a few extras. Thanks guys, though after this it seems as though I didn't change the list much, I did change some. I wieghed everyones experiences and came to my own conclusions. I appreciate all the input, please add in anything else that comes to mind.
  5. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Actually I saw that in person, but its too heavy. I want a 1 piece lightwieght polypro.
  6. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    I have seriosly looked for a half hour on fully body polypro. The only one I could find was OR Quadratic Suit. It was discontinued in the fall! There are 2 no name ones I found to put under a dry suit, but thats it! Where the frig do I get one?
  7. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Sorry guys, you have valid points on getting rid of 1 pair of pants and jacket. BUT, I can't get rid of them. I wiegh 135 and get cold quickly. I would be pissed if I was standing around shivering with nothing else to put on. On a side note: I waterproofed sprayed all the stuff sacs, backpack, and camp chair. I still have yet to get ahold of the second Primus pump and stove kit. Know where I can get one?
  8. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Gene: Boottom layers all have side zip. I chose not to get insulater for larger bottles because except for night, I will hardly be using them (I guzzle water at mealtime, but drink little while moving). Your right on the little bottle. Goretex, belay parka, and down parka all have a hood. Me and partner with each have 2 pickets. Fleece section on the stuff sac sounds like a good idea. Everyone else: Thanks for the input, I spent a lot of time redying gear and putting things together. Any more info appreciated.
  9. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Mike: Stove board sounds like a good idea, will keep in mind. Ade: Good point with the fleece gloves, I will probably get a pair. I will also take a look at the 1 piece polypro, sounds like less around the wasteline. Squid: I am just going to bring 2 ascenders. Thanks
  10. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Disclaimer: I may have completely forgotten to list items, list is not finalized! Denali Gear list: Head: Softshell hat 2 balaclavas -1 fleece, 1 polyester Glacier glasses with nose guard Goggles LED Petzl Headlamp Body: 1 pair of polypro base layer 1 pair of silk base layer AFRC Softshell Jacket EMS Goretex XCR jacket GoLite synthetic Belay jacket (has its own compression sac) Nautica Down parka (sweet bright orange color) (has its own compression sac) Lowe Goretex event pants EMS Heavy fleece pants Patgonia synthetic Belay pants (has its own compression sac) Feet: 3 pairs of mid weight wool socks Millet Everest boots BD Sabertooth with anti-bot and crampon bag Pair of (noname) snowshoes Gloves: 2 pairs of Manzella glove liners BD Ice gloves OR Cordura 2 later goretex gloves North Face Himilaya Down mitts Technical gear: Harness : BD Alpine Bod 4 Mammut wiregate biners with mammut slings 2 MSR snow pickets 4 BD wiregate oval biners 2 Petzl ascenders with BD Postron Locking biners Harness and foot loops for ascenders 2 Petzl Prussic Minding pulleys with BD Positron Locking 2 prussic loops Charlet Moser Ice axe with leash, insulated head (custom job) Backpack: North Face Renegade with add on side pouches Sleeping Gear: OR compression sac North Face -40 DarkStar Insul-mat 1.0 full Thermarest Z-lite regular Sled: Customized kiddy sled with PVC to keep steady, and attachments for prussic in the back of the sled 32in x 14in waterproof duffel bag 21ft of 7mm for rigging Stove: Primus Himalaya Multifuel stove 2 Primus pumps Primus service kit 2-22oz fuel bottles 1-33oz fuel bottle Piece of styrofoam insulator Aluminum pot Food: 12 Deydrated packages The rest comes from the grocery store Water: 2 -1 liter Nalgene .5 liter Nalgene with OR insulator Other gear: Komperdell Anti-shock trekking poles with snow basket Tripod camp chair Pee bottle Himalaya snow shovel Homemade snow saw 25 Bamboo wands Down-booties Tidbits: Leatherman Sunblock Sewing kit Medical Tape Extra batteries AM\FM radio Digital Camera Chapstic Deck of cards Bunch of BIC lighters Extra twine Toothbrush\paste Garbage\Plastic Bags (Tent and rope my partner has, I do not know specifics)
  11. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Valid points. I will stick with ascenders then. And about the "fat" wallet...I have wanted to go for 3 years now, I worked hard for 7 months over the winter, and have spent thousands getting the best of everything. I would be tempted to put up a complete gear list to see if anything different reccomended. Should I?
  12. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Thanks for the input. I was planning on using the standard thermarest and a foam pad, but I saw it on thier web site and was itching to know. I will just stick with what I have. How about this: I have acenders, but I really don't feel like lugging them around, and just bringing prussics. What did you guys bring on Denali and any other longer trips? If there was a graph, every pound decreases my speed exponentially. Very fast when light, slow as shit when loaded down. Got any weight saving ideas?
  13. Denali Tips and Tricks (Updated Thread)

    Excellent, thanks guys. Another question: Anyone use the down filled sleeping pad? Worth the money or no? http://www.rei.com/product/47878791.htm
  14. AT boots on Denali??

    Well, I have a pair of these up for auction. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT Not warm enough for me. I bought a pair of the Millet Everest Boots. Hopefully will get to use them soon. (Too warm right now.) Supposedly up there with the top boots, no overboots\replacing with intuition liners necessary. You pay the price though. I got my pair for $450. PM if you want to know where.
  15. Looking for alpine climbing partner