Dru

They don't use "AI" in the Rockies. It's all WI, alpine or not. Actually, technically the Canadian Rockies Ice Grade, does not even include the "WI" prefix merely a W although it climbs the same as the WI/AI system popularized bby Jeff Lowe.

seen on rec.climbing check it out aid gumbies documented fun photos of bumbly aid epic 5 feet off the ground!!

That Black Dyke ice was reportedly climbed a few years back... actually there's a 2 pitch 5.10 WI5 at the bottom, and the "upper Black Dyke on Ice" at the top above Bellygood... i bet no one has mixed climbed out the 13b roof and dry tooled to the top to link em up Hey Darin dont you love the sketchy fixed heads? grade changes from week to week depending on how many are broken and how many new ones go in! I have cleaned deadheads with a nut tool and application of a hammer... it might work better than the chisel, or you could scrape them out with an ice axe pick!!

"i need a unit to sample and hold" - Neil Young

re: flebby and trundling, there was a murder case in Idaho? Montana? some place called Granite Mountain, where three young men were arresterd after rolling rocks down a steep face and killing one man & injuring another who were climbing up below. at first the 3 men claimed just be hikers & not know anyone was below then one of them admitted they themselves were climbers who had been trying to "clean: loose rock off the face with stones from above... the whole thing was covered in R&I "Basecamp" section in about 1993 or 1994, can't remember the year but it was aroundthe same time the TNF Climbing Team of Smith, Anker, Hill, Lowe, Child etc went climbing in Khirgizstan Ak-Su if that helps find the specific magazine!

So he (dude at Marble) didn't "Czenczek!"

if she was "Climbing by herself" and an employee "bitched her out for sloppy belaying" that's one strange gym you got there in MN!!

simpkins no, we came in via the north side, see ice conditions thread! i was just thinking about the different approaches to the mountain is all. all those butte names are funny but none more so than big bosom buttes! alpine T&A

but erik it could also happen while trad climbing with crampons on!! but never with the new Charlet Dart with better designed heel bail, or with those bolt on crampons you attach to hockey skates!

hiking is the approach to climbing. seriously, the two overlap, its like a Venn diagram. There is mountaineering that is hiking, mountaineering that is climbing, mountaineering that is neither (skiing); climbing that is also hiking (if you hike up a peak, you have climbed that peak)...climbing is to ascend where as hiking is to walk...hiking along Olympic Beach for 3 days is not climbing but hiking up Whitney is, non-technical climbing; scrambling may be where the two overlap or it may be a subset of soloing without fall potential, the big question is SO FUCKING WHAT? if its for reporting lost people on the news, if they had technical gear, they are not "hikers" and its a bit of a put down to call them that. now to offend all the dog lovers . if it is hiking a dog can climb it, and if it is climbing, the dog can't

thinking about this name during my slog out from Tomyhoi. i wonder if anyone has ever had a Yellow Butte Disaster up there

Ben Firth sent Musashi (M12) in carhartts

Bearspirit? I woulda "got out of there quick before I had to rescue someone" No seriously, it sounds like what happened was the right thing to do. UNLESS, if he had good sticks with the tools, he could throw the rope over the pinky rest or the head of one of the tools, and dog off the tool enough to get pro in or to reach down to the crampon? Or, with spurs, do the splits, heel hooking spur-on-tool with the un-caught foot and using both hands to deal with the caught foot...

the difference is the same as the diff between nwhikers.net and cascadeclimbers.com

No, because the same number of pitches of the same difficulty on the Squamish Apron, would be a II (slab climbing, lower angle, climb faster) - you could get exactly the same length and number of pitches at the listed grades by climbing Slab Alley, but the "hypothetical average party" does Slab Alley in 2 hours, and Outer Space in 5-6, I think?. So the III does tell you something.

I found out there IS a viable route out of the basin something like High Pass to Garget Mine. who wants to meet me and exchange backpacks this summer. yours can be full of money. mine will also be full of green. Beckey doesnt need to quote prospectors, anybody who climbs Border Peaks sees the waterfalls on this face. Research indicates every route on the N side of the mountain was made by a Canadian party that's a long history of plundering American routes

"mostly" ??

Spanker got ripcordz? Careful asking for 'special' beads...

Hexes and Bongs The Clog Cam is the pre-Tech Friend era Flexible Friend under a new name. Clog is wholly owned by Wild Country and is its budget arm, making cheap, heavy, 1990's era cutting technology for penny pinching 21st century climbers.

How come you have heard of Hunter DFA? Did you actually read about something other than bolt clipping and plastic while rereading Hot Flashes on the can?

Eric Brand route on W Face of Thor. Charlie Porter route is today called VII but was given VI at the time.

true, and less violence, less lieing and less allover bad behavior. I think everyone shopuld be nakid if everyone went naked, where would we carry our car keys and stuff we normally put in our pockets? clip em to our nipple rings with accessory biners?

truer words were never spoken.

I don't think that the climbs on Slesse have gone from VI to V....I think they were called V originally. Now many people maybe do the NE buttress as a IV (long day), and i would agree it is IV-V or lower boundary of V....

The overall grade was originally intended, to differentiate between two routes of the same length and crux difficulty. For instance, a 10 pitch route, mostly 5.7 with 1 pitch of 10b, would get a III, and a 10 pitch routem, sustained with all pitches at 10b, and maybe some serac hazard from above as well, would get a IV. Or something like that.