Dru

i thought i read somewhere it was "5.8+"

what if you thru-hike from the 8 mile creek/mtneers creek road? past stuart instead of driving around? day trip or no?

I am not afraid to admit when I was wrong. I conflated two separate ascents. A Spaniard climbed a 14b shoeless. A 54 year old Italian climbed a 14a chalkless. OK?

although both examples carry fatal risks - which is why i chose them - the risk of dying from soloing is by and large a calculated risk. you know your own abilities - you know the route - you know your chances. as far as i can tell you can't calculate a risk the same way when dealing with wild animals.

there is an 80's station playing at work - i am immune to your attempts cause men at work are rawking out with "I come from a land down under" and next up will be "stop making sense"

is ingalls pk still closed due to fire? i hear it is that good red orangerock (olivine/peridotite) like twin sisters and old settler

"I just got a new gig playing my didgeridoo at the yoga classes my soulmate teaches! It's very spiritual!"

PLEASE do not compare me to cracked! but anyways - the only thing i see different between this accident, and, say, derek hersey falling off the steck salathe, is that hersey knew and accepted the risk. this guy, just based on the news story which is all i know of him, seems to have not understood the risk, but believed some sort of self-invented theory about bear psychology. unlike the researcher who spent hundreds of days desensitizing one bear to his presence he was dropped off on island with many bears and little time to get them accustomed to him. maybe he was a cool guy and all but it also sounds like his theories were directly responsible for not only his own death, but that of his gf. i don't think that's so cool. sorry if you knew this guy though. as i say all i know of him is what was in the news story. if you can provide any contrasting details please do so.

oh yeah hey peter pungent there is only one E in nonsense!!!!!

My point is simply that in the future tr'ing and tr practice will be seen in the same light as the use of fixed ropes were on the fa of the Dihedral Wall. It is not a question of runouts but of style. I am not making a case against runouts. I simply am asserting that the tr and rehearsal methods of the Hubers will be considered to be in poor style in a few years and the ground up ethic will be the cutting edge. Time will tell. NO BOLTS NO BOLTS NO BOLTS these two styles, rehearsed and onsighted, have co existed for a long time. in britain some of the e5's, most e6's and almost all e7's were put up headpoint style. now the e5-e7 routes are onsighted and people are headpointing e8, e9 and e10. so its not that the style will whither away but when people are onsighting stuff like el corazon and salathe, the worked headpoint style will be being used on trad routes with multiple 5.14 pitches.

KILL CLIPPY!!!!

It says at the bottom of the NEWS STORY that he got into researching bears to help himself recover from drug dependency.... The guy had a wacky theory. He had some successes, got cocky and got killed. Along with his girlfriend. OOPS!!! Ehmmic maybe you could explain how you think this case is any different than the one reported last week where a self proclaimed "yoga expert" who said yoga would keep him safe from sharks, was standing in water chummed with blood and fish guts, and his leg was bitten off by a shark? "playin with fire dontcha know that you're gonna get burned?"

WHERE HAVE I SEEN THIS THREAD BEFORE???? insert deja-vu graemlin!

Huber, Houlding, etc. are using the aid gear that exists on the line. If there is a beak placement, or a fixed pin, then that is his pro. Leo Houlding added a hood ornament for an aid move once It has nothing to do with using the exact same gear as was used on the original ascent. If that was the case no one would use cams on the Salathe. Your spurious arguments are illogical and invalid as always! But keep them coming cause it is fun As to "the goal is to make a runout route" - the goal is not to retrobolt while freeing. Any tactics used in support of this goal are to be supported. If a hard crack protects well - by your argument, if he wanted to make a runout he'd fill it in with cement like the French do.

trees are aid

is mythbusters on before or after the sex files cool jon!

The point is to free climb the original line using the same gear. Hubers try it working the moves and headpointing. Leo Houlding tries it on sight and ground up. It's just a differing style. Are you suggesting that those who bolt the routes are gonna be adding their bolts on sight, free and on the lead? No? Then yadayadayada your dissing of headpointing is pointless.

trask why didn't you give her the lewrockwell.com link?

all the gas stations in Canada have little "no cell phone" icons on the pumps. and they had something from head office printed out about dangers of cell phones, on the bulletin board at the Squamish Shell last time I was standing there with legs crossed and squinting waiting for some slow dude to get out of the john!

the Petzl plastic one with built in webbing cutter!

The point is not to "create runout routes" but to "respect the original ascent style by avoiding the addition of new fixed gear which would detract from the original ascent". Runouts are a part of climbing. If you can't deal with them, maybe you should focus on the existing climbs which are well protected, or on establishing NEW well protected climbs, instead of adding protection to an existing climb to bring it within your comfort threshold? Just a thought, cause for some people head control during a difficult runout is an integral part of the climbing experience. As for Cobra Crack - everyone from Peter Croft thru Hamish, Greg, Jim Sandford, to the newest hotshots on da scene like Andrew Boyd and Jordan Wright, have tried to free it - no dice so far. severely overhanging to roof rattle fingers with no feet. Fun clean aid though! Hangs way out over the trail.

Is that some secret society, or something? its kinda like the KTK but even more esoteric and exclusive.

They musta heard there was gonna be free piss! Look at em run!

extensive TRing and preinspection is also common before bolting in order to find out where to place the bolts..... the headpoint is a respected and inspiring traditional tactic! altho not as good as an onsight, of course don't forget good ol COBRA CRACK at Squamish. could it be the PNW's first legit (not a bunch of lamo pin scars) trad 5.14?

Hmmmm B J Sooner? Inserta Shafteer? Len Lictepeen? Funny names those researchers have