get yer area you want to see by zooming in drag and click boxes 
  
at any scale under 1:80 000 if you choose view layers, turn on elevation and refresh you will see the contours at 20m interval. above that you see 200m interval. 
  
most of the peak names etc are best viewed at a scale of 1:15000   
  
at a scale of 1:5000 or larger - they will vanish